What features would you like to see in 0.3?

[zruncho]

I've just finished building my 0.1-S1 from LDO. Awesome kit, I had a lot of fun building and just as much fun picking out future mods and adjustments! I have already moved my unit towards being more of a 0.2 when I started to think... what improvements would I like to see to these kits? Personally, the two big ones I would love to see are:

- Auto Bed levelling for pretty obvious reasons

- A fixed print bed much like Prusa and Bambu as I believe bed springs are a bit of a step back in terms of reliability and sustainability as well as a possible weak point in terms of quality due to fast speeds may cause the tensioning nuts to loosen after several prints.

What are your thoughts? What quality of life improvements would you like to see in a newer design of this small yet mighty design!?

Congrats on the new printer!

my 2c, having build arguably ~8 V0s or variants: ABL would add cost and complexity, and I think the V0.2 is in a sweet spot now; it can't really get cheaper without a meaningful compromise, and making it more expensive by default wouldn't necessarily be the right choice. That's a compliment to Nemgrea and the Voron team. Some of the fastest printers in the world are V0s; it's a good platform.

But, if you want features like ABL, you can get them on your V0.

You should check out 3dprintersforants.com and hang out on the DoomCube Discord, where many Printers for Ants projects live.

Lots of ways to never touch a bed spring or knob again!

Tri-Zero is my preference, as it uses motors you probably have lying around for Z, and aims to be the lowest-cost, fastest path to ABL for V0s.

 

[transonic_gecko]

Better panel mounting. i change between PLA and ABS etc so removing the panels is the easy part but putting them back on is another all together.
I combatted this by designing push in magnet holders so my panels are held in with them. makes the whole removal and refitting a doddle and literally takes seconds to do.

I would like to see what you did for panel mounting? Can you indulge more?

I totally agree! I'd thought about trying to do something with magnets for the panel mounting, since putting those things back on are a pain! I'd also be curious to see what you've done, if you're willing to share!

 

[Driftrotor]

I would like to see what you did for panel mounting? Can you indulge more?

I totally agree! I'd thought about trying to do something with magnets for the panel mounting, since putting those things back on are a pain! I'd also be curious to see what you've done, if you're willing to share!

Look no further, you can have a look here. (sorry couldn't upload them directly as they are too big apparently)

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/x7kkzi4wd0krp01dtnohk/h?rlkey=2u2tmtsy3y8skoea3v2pz2txy&dl=0

to give a brief idea of what i did...
I wanted the side panels aswell as the front door to be hinged to give easy and quick access to the printer, this turned out to be extremely useful.
all other panels were to be held in place by magnets on the corners and i wanted to remove the mid point mounts to give a cleaner look.
lastly was to keep the OEM look of the mounting and not to change the dims if possible. (I added 0.2mm in the end to the external faces on the panel mounts)
I used 5x2mm N48 magnets to achieve this and they hold incredibly well with no panel buzz or movement.
the magnets on the frame side use the extrusion channels and are simply press fit into them. install is super easy as you only need to remove the feet to get them in / on.
the top hat was even easier as there is nothing in the way to install the magnet mounting.
after that it just a case of slapping on the panels.
current set up is with no foam on the panels (I get ~40-45 deg chamber) but I'm planning on doing a set that i can have 1mm foam to reduce chamber leakage and get the temps a bit higher.

I might make it public once I have fine tuned it a bit more so keep an eye out. but so far i have not had an issue... yet.

I have not considered bracing and I have seen the braces that are like the VzBot. Now I will probably make some to see if it give any performance gains.

Have you shared the before/after-frame-bracing resonance results? Would be very interested.

I found that they help with the front door area the best as the frame is open at the top so it helps to keep it a bit more stable.
as you may have seen I did go a bit nuts with the bracing in an attempt to really brace the whole machine, including the top hat.
i did this as technically the panels being screw mounted to the frame would add rigidity so having them mounted with magnets means i will have lost some along the way, so this should help retain some of what was lost. (in theory)
if you want them you can find them here...

https://www.printables.com/model/508931-voron-0-01-02-door-stabilizers-two-magnet

I have been looking for my resonance graphs after seeing you post but i cant seem to find them at the moment, only my really old ones when it was a fresh build.
but I can tell you that my X went from 18k (ish) to 24k (ish), my Y went from 14K (ish) to 20K (ish).
I don't run these figures though as it outruns my hotend so keep to a sensible 12-16k @ 150mm/s

i have to add that the build, modifications, print quality, community and time spent fine tuning this little monster have been so enjoyable!
i'm planning on getting another one just for the sake if it...(that and i use it almost every day!) but after I build my 2.4R2 that is still in the box.

 

[zruncho]

Look no further, you can have a look here. (sorry couldn't upload them directly as they are too big apparently)

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/x7kkzi4wd0krp01dtnohk/h?rlkey=2u2tmtsy3y8skoea3v2pz2txy&dl=0

to give a brief idea of what i did...
I wanted the side panels aswell as the front door to be hinged to give easy and quick access to the printer, this turned out to be extremely useful.
all other panels were to be held in place by magnets on the corners and i wanted to remove the mid point mounts to give a cleaner look.
lastly was to keep the OEM look of the mounting and not to change the dims if possible. (I added 0.2mm in the end to the external faces on the panel mounts)
I used 5x2mm N48 magnets to achieve this and they hold incredibly well with no panel buzz or movement.
the magnets on the frame side use the extrusion channels and are simply press fit into them. install is super easy as you only need to remove the feet to get them in / on.
the top hat was even easier as there is nothing in the way to install the magnet mounting.
after that it just a case of slapping on the panels.
current set up is with no foam on the panels (I get ~40-45 deg chamber) but I'm planning on doing a set that i can have 1mm foam to reduce chamber leakage and get the temps a bit higher.

I might make it public once I have fine tuned it a bit more so keep an eye out. but so far i have not had an issue... yet.




I found that they help with the front door area the best as the frame is open at the top so it helps to keep it a bit more stable.
as you may have seen I did go a bit nuts with the bracing in an attempt to really brace the whole machine, including the top hat.
i did this as technically the panels being screw mounted to the frame would add rigidity so having them mounted with magnets means i will have lost some along the way, so this should help retain some of what was lost. (in theory)
if you want them you can find them here...

https://www.printables.com/model/508931-voron-0-01-02-door-stabilizers-two-magnet

I have been looking for my resonance graphs after seeing you post but i cant seem to find them at the moment, only my really old ones when it was a fresh build.
but I can tell you that my X went from 18k (ish) to 24k (ish), my Y went from 14K (ish) to 20K (ish).
I don't run these figures though as it outruns my hotend so keep to a sensible 12-16k @ 150mm/s

i have to add that the build, modifications, print quality, community and time spent fine tuning this little monster have been so enjoyable!
i'm planning on getting another one just for the sake if it...(that and i use it almost every day!) but after I build my 2.4R2 that is still in the box.

Interesting. I might just print some of these braces and give it a try.

I use ZeroPanels on most of my V0 derivatives and the one potential downside is that there's no mechanical connection to add torsional rigidity to the box frame.

 

[zrogg]

I just finished building a 0.2 and here's my list for improvements:

Improved manual. The manual is very complete and thorough, but it could be slightly more user friendly. I would welcome a part list needed for each individual page (or section) and a pic of the extrusions used when and where they are used. See your average LEGO manual for what I'm talking about. A description of parts attached temporarily. This will help with preventing stressing about torque values and getting parts just right, that will be removed later on.

Improved serviceability. I'd would like the design to incorporate individually serviceable subsystems without having to take so many darn things apart. The corexy top of the machine is almost there but working on the z axis is a mess. I would love to be able to remove the z-axis to fix any tramming/squareness issues without having to take most of the bottom out and then potentially creating more squareness issues.

No double sided sticky tape - especially for the electronics. Its' not serviceable and it can either last a lifetime of fail when you least want it to. I can live with it on the front door.

The strain relief on the mini SB is poorly implemented and the wire routing on it could be better.

Rigidly mounting the bottom panel to the side-skirts some how. The side skirts seem week without some additional reinforcement.

The ability to enable external cooling of the chamber without having to remove panels. Maybe a fan with automatic closing/opening ducts?

I also agree there's no need for ABL, the spring mounted bed works just fine.

 

[Sandman50]

The ability to enable external cooling of the chamber without having to remove panels. Maybe a fan with automatic closing/opening ducts?

Comment on this one - the Exhaust duct for the Trident / 2.4 works because it is effectively an inverted P trap. Hot air doesn't like to go down. More or less, the fan needs to be on for hot air to escape.

Speculation, but the whole point of the Zero is that it's as compact as possible to the exclusion of most everything else. So adding a similar labyrinth duct would add substantial volume to the printer.

That said, a similar exhaust duct to the 2.4 version could be made but with 40mm axial or 40/50mm centrifugal fans. The question is where to put it. Not a lot of room down the back. Sides have volume taken up by the motion stuff. I suppose you can cut a hole in the side and use a Nevermore, but duct air out the side vs. up.

So just open the top - it's a small unit after all.

 

[Sanity Agathion]

Comment on this one - the Exhaust duct for the Trident / 2.4 works because it is effectively an inverted P trap. Hot air doesn't like to go down. More or less, the fan needs to be on for hot air to escape.

Speculation, but the whole point of the Zero is that it's as compact as possible to the exclusion of most everything else. So adding a similar labyrinth duct would add substantial volume to the printer.

That said, a similar exhaust duct to the 2.4 version could be made but with 40mm axial or 40/50mm centrifugal fans. The question is where to put it. Not a lot of room down the back. Sides have volume taken up by the motion stuff. I suppose you can cut a hole in the side and use a Nevermore, but duct air out the side vs. up.

So just open the top - it's a small unit after all.

On tophat maybe? at the back TH panel.

 

[Sandman50]

yeah, probably out the top panel, then around the corner to make an inverted P trap. Ideally pull hot air out the top to work with the convection flow.

 

[zrogg]

Comment on this one - the Exhaust duct for the Trident / 2.4 works because it is effectively an inverted P trap. Hot air doesn't like to go down. More or less, the fan needs to be on for hot air to escape.

Speculation, but the whole point of the Zero is that it's as compact as possible to the exclusion of most everything else. So adding a similar labyrinth duct would add substantial volume to the printer.

That said, a similar exhaust duct to the 2.4 version could be made but with 40mm axial or 40/50mm centrifugal fans. The question is where to put it. Not a lot of room down the back. Sides have volume taken up by the motion stuff. I suppose you can cut a hole in the side and use a Nevermore, but duct air out the side vs. up.

So just open the top - it's a small unit after all.

I use to work in automating industrial equipment testing. We had bunkers with hydraulic actuators and locks on the steel doors and roofs. After your comment I think my next project will be adding a remote actuator to the top

 

[Sanity Agathion]

I used to work automating industrial testing

I use to work in automating industrial equipment testing. We had bunkers with hydraulic actuators and locks on the steel doors and roofs. After your comment I think my next project will be adding a remote actuator to the top

Ain't no better kill than overkill! That's an amazing idea and if you manage to do that, please post here!

 

[hartk]

I just finished building a 0.2 and here's my list for improvements:

Improved manual. The manual is very complete and thorough, but it could be slightly more user friendly. I would welcome a part list needed for each individual page (or section) and a pic of the extrusions used when and where they are used. See your average LEGO manual for what I'm talking about. A description of parts attached temporarily. This will help with preventing stressing about torque values and getting parts just right, that will be removed later on.

Improved serviceability. I'd would like the design to incorporate individually serviceable subsystems without having to take so many darn things apart. The corexy top of the machine is almost there but working on the z axis is a mess. I would love to be able to remove the z-axis to fix any tramming/squareness issues without having to take most of the bottom out and then potentially creating more squareness issues.

No double sided sticky tape - especially for the electronics. Its' not serviceable and it can either last a lifetime of fail when you least want it to. I can live with it on the front door.

The strain relief on the mini SB is poorly implemented and the wire routing on it could be better.

Rigidly mounting the bottom panel to the side-skirts some how. The side skirts seem week without some additional reinforcement.

The ability to enable external cooling of the chamber without having to remove panels. Maybe a fan with automatic closing/opening ducts?

I also agree there's no need for ABL, the spring mounted bed works just fine.

if you look on the Voron 0 github repo there is a link to a printed parts list that shows which page each part is used on
Here is a link to that page

 

[djeZo888]

I would like to see this problem fixed: https://github.com/djeZo888/Voron0/tree/main/BeltPathFix

 

[Sanity Agathion]

I would like to see this problem fixed: https://github.com/djeZo888/Voron0/tree/main/BeltPathFix

Hm it could result in redesign of plastic parts which can be reprinted and used with standard shims, but if somebody purchased CNC parts, they will have to use workaround of different shims.

 

[ChrisA]

Hello, I think some probe could be OK but will be very hard to cram one in.

Look at "side swipe". It is a klick-like bed probe for V0 and other "printers for ants". It uses a servo to move the docking port over the build plate. It stores in the space under the Y-rail when not in use. (maybe you already know about this as it's been half a year.)

 

[ChrisA]

The V0.2 bed suport flexed so much that someone designed the kirigami to fix the problem. but it is not very well design, it flexes a LOT for the total mass of metal used. It has great rididity where it is not needed and lacks rigidity in critical areas.

One could do better with a redesigned plastic bed frame. Plastic can be very strong and rigid if you use enough of it. I think the trick to making a strong cantilever bed is to make the frame deeper.

Here is my proposal: Longer z-rails would fit on the existing extrusions., Add 20 mm and make them go clear top the bottom. Then add a second carrage to each rail. The two carriages attach to one very big and thick block of ABS plastic using long 8 long M2 screws. Be sure to use washers to give the screwhead a larger bearing surface. The "Voron 4-walls" around a 2 mmm hole means need 6mm washers to take full advantage of the bearing surface. The heads of M2 screw are simply too small to bear in ABS. Use wasther and 8 screws and two carriages.

These blocks extend forward perhaps 50 or 60 mm and have 50 or 60 mm long 15mm wide slots to hold the 1515 extrusions

Next the blocks can be made stronger if each block is cut in half vertically and then joined with screws and zig-zagged, rather the planer joining. This replaces some infill with solid walls.

The added mass does not matter, the z-axis does not need high acceleration.

Summary.
1) taller connection to z-rail using double C Carriage or the longer H carriage.
2) increase the bearing surface of m2 screws
3) Blocks interface to 1515 extrusion on three sides over > 50mm length.

Without much-improved bed stiffness even a "klick" probe will deform the bed

 

[Sandman50]

There are mods for the Zero - triple belted and triple lead screw. Gets rid of the cantilever.

 

[djeZo888]

Hm it could result in redesign of plastic parts which can be reprinted and used with standard shims, but if somebody purchased CNC parts, they will have to use workaround of different shims.

I've met people that had same/similar issue with belt. Not all belts are under 6mm wide, you often get belt that is a bit more than 6mm and at some locations 6.2 or even 6.3mm wide. That simply can't fit inside 6mm properly.

I must say that now when I use ultrathin shims for all my V0 and other derivates such as F0, I have no problems with belts, belts do not wear out, there are no strange noises and everything is working very well.

 

[labradorius]

I'd like to see some degree of automatic tuning for EM and PA added. Whether it's a Klipper macro and a doc page or a camera and AI, either is fine.

Using Ellis' print tuning guide is fine, but reducing those "necessary" steps is better.

 

[Dave32]

This is more about kits than the printer, but I'd actually like to see a reduced-spec V0 for those of us who don't print materials that need enclosures.
Removing the side panels, door handle, top hat extrusions, top hat panels, and all of the associated hardware and printed parts would be a nice simplification.

 

[NoGuru]

I'd like to see some degree of automatic tuning for EM and PA added. Whether it's a Klipper macro and a doc page or a camera and AI, either is fine.

Using Ellis' print tuning guide is fine, but reducing those "necessary" steps is better.

You mean like the ones built into Orca slicer?