2.4 | 350 Build (late in the build to start, but it's a start)

[Tripslip]

Im late in starting a build log as I am pretty much done. I have done quite a few mods and upgrades and have the machine running. But not well at the moment.
Here are the specs so far...

• 2.4, 350, Voronkits.com base with PIF parts. I have reprinted a lot of the parts trying to fix some issues.
• Octopus, 2209's, BTT EBB36, Can-a-bus Pro
• Rapido
• Stealthburner with CW2 (have tried LGX Lite but went back) with Barf because LEDs make everything work better, right? haha
• TAP for the moment but I will be switching back to Klicky
• Fully pinned
• GE5C Z-Joints
• Roma front idlers
• Sensorless homing
• Umbilical
• Lower Z chain
• Nevermore
• Bed fans
• Dedicated PC in place of a Pi. Dell Micro Core i5 Optiplex 7050

 

[NoGuru]

LOL, I say that is far from a new build, but I like it. What are the issues? Maybe we can sort them out.

 

[Tripslip]

lol, I'd say you're correct. As you cant probably see be the list of mods, most of them are from trying to fix my main issue, Z consistency. I have tried about everything short of new MCU, power supply and motors (which I am thinking of doing).

Most recent changes have been TAP, Pins and new Drivers. No change. I just got the parts in the mail yesterday for a klicky PCB and printed new x-carriage and mount, and I'll be installing them today. As well as re-writing my configs. I dont want to be a nay-sayer be TAP was pretty bad for me and I gave up after 2 kits from 2 different vendors. I really wanted it to work but I think it has a few issues to work out first.

I'll list out the things I've tried and the results in seperate post to keep this from becoming a WoT.

 

[Tripslip]

First upgrade/mod was to Euclid. So fa, it was the best results. I had a problem with switches dyeing though. I also tried klicky but felt like I always had to fuss with it. Klicky PCB looks like it is going to fix some of the short comings between both Euclid (not seating properly and shorting out) and Klicky.

 

[NoGuru]

Z consistency as in first layer?
I have had Euclid, Klicky, unklicky, and now TAP. They are have pros and cons but as far as consistency, TAP has been the most constant for me.
Euclid kept burning out after two weeks and after three different ones so I gave up on that. Klicky/Unklicky were good but the mount on the tool head kept loosening on my which was frustrating.

So with TAP, what seems to be the issue, PCB?

 

[Tripslip]

Z consistency as in first layer?
I have had Euclid, Klicky, unklicky, and now TAP. They are have pros and cons but as far as consistency, TAP has been the most constant for me.
Euclid kept burning out after two weeks and after three different ones so I gave up on that. Klicky/Unklicky were good but the mount on the tool head kept loosening on my which was frustrating.

So with TAP, what seems to be the issue, PCB?

My issues are in probing. Once it DOES probe I get fantastic first layers. When probing my readings bounce all over the place and I get "exceeded tried".

As for TAP. I noticed something interesting the last time I tried to print with it... When the chamber got hot, the linear bearing got really rough. I agree though, I liked the Euclide but it just burnt up too fast.

 

[NoGuru]

I will say I took mine apart and rebuilt it twice before I got it working perfect. It's funny how the little details will make a big difference on this printer.

 

[Tripslip]

Well, x-carriage and Klicky PCB rebuild done. I found one other small issue in my cfg. z current was at .4 to quiet it down some. All belts have the same tension but still having a issue with corner #1 and #2. if I cant get this resolved this time I think I am going to start a build from scratch with new frame, motors, rails, and electronics.