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Formbot 2.4R2 350mm kit w/ 48v


Active member
Hi everyone. Documenting my 2nd Voron 2.4R2 build and figured I would get a thread going before the build starts to see if anyone has a better plan than what I have going.

Learned a lot from my 300mm build, which was started as a stock kit from voronkits.com. The kit arrived in early December and I completed it (slowly) by late January - have to love holidays and family time! The only thing I added to that build was a SB 2-piece board, LDO toolhead cable, snap latches, bed fans/nevermore, and lighting. I have ~500hrs on it now and recently upgraded the build plate, but other than that all the functional parts were from the formbot kit. All the electronics/fans/motors/etc. were the base kit.

Here is a list of components I have already sourced and acquired, and most of the printing has been done. I have a few things to sort, like which Canbus setup to use, and the associated prints for the mounting/cooling on the toolhead, but the parts are already here so the prints are the last step in the chain, which is under my control at this point. I have been teetering on using my LGX-Lite w/ Stealthburner, but kind of want to leave that for my Tri-zero build that is now waiting on me to complete this one. I expect this build will carry me into the summer and stave off the urge to pick up a X1C ... anyway, here is my build list:

Vendor list:

350mm Formbot Kit from voronkits.com
Electronics compartment:
BTT Octopus Pro (2x TMC5160 and 4x 2209)
MW UHP-350-24
MW UHP-350-48
Custom Heatsinks for the UHP supplies to help get more than the derated ~250w and generally stay cooler
TinyFan for electronics bay fans
OctoGlasses mod/fans for HV steppers
Noctua 6025 fans for electronics bay and Noctua 4010 for glasses/Pi

GDSTime 5015 for Stealthburner
EBB36 Canbus / U2C (Not decided on Can setup quite yet - also have a SB2040 originally planned for my 300 I can use)
TAP kit from LDO (Have a HoneyBadger 50mm rail if I don't like the included LDO) / R8 Tap printed out
Rapido HF PT1000 (Also have a 2nd Revo I can use and a .6 Obxidian laying around as the .4 Obx is in the 300mm)
Bondtech BMG Integrated Drive Gear Assembly (bearings from Amazon) for CW2
LDO-36STH20-1004AHG for CW2 stepper
Rainbow Barf
Wire shroud w/ 3010 fan for Can stepper cooling

LDO 2STH48-2804AH Super Speedy / Super Power High Temp for A/B motors
Titanium Backers
HoneyBadger MGN9H rails for Y
HoneyBadger MGN12H rail for X
Pin Mods for A/B and Rama Front Idlers
Igus GE5C Bearings for Z

Kinematics Mount
Bed Wagos
HoneyBadger single Sided black Textured PEI
Ellis Bed Fans (Amazon 5015's for bedfans)
Nevermore w/ GDSTime 5015's

3x Daylight XXL strips
Snap Latches
OV5640-style USB camera for overhead / Pi Cam for build-plate level

Parts printed on my 300mm in ABS KVP Stellar Black and KVP Sea Blue. Since the wife has to look at them, she got a heavy vote ... I do like the blue though.


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Looks like its going to be a really nice build. I have a pretty similar setup so if you need help, ask here since I am following and I usually get back within a day or two.
Looks like its going to be a really nice build. I have a pretty similar setup so if you need help, ask here since I am following and I usually get back within a day or two.
Thanks! I am probably going to be building slower than my first as I want to get the 350 dialed in from the get-go.

I have canbus, backers, and some GE5C Z mods for the 300 that have been waiting because I don't want to be down ... I just know that as soon as I shut it down and start replacing things I will have forgot something I needed to print. HA!

I have also started on my snap latches and some different (read - lower profile) DIN mounts, since I am adding the heat sinks to the power supplies and adding height to the profile.


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Make sure you test fit those snap latches. I printed an entire set to find it I did the wrong size.
Make sure you test fit those snap latches. I printed an entire set to find it I did the wrong size.
Ha! Pretty sure all of us made that mistake printing those latches. I printed 8 that were the wrong size for my 300mm ...

Ended up making some progress on the build this week. Had a few hours to get started on the frame / z-drives / and bed. Managed to get the rails cleaned and lubed up w/ EP2 instead of the SuperLube I bought - figured since the X/Y rails were the Honeybadgers and already came greased with EP2, I would just stick with that for the time being.

Z-drives went together easy and the frame squared out on my marble countertop so no worries there. I did notice that the longer extrusions (in comparison to the 300mm) had a tiny bit more flex. Certainly nothing of worry, but made me want to double check my work nonetheless.

The formbot kit doesn't come with a universal bed - the holes are drilled for the 2.4 (4 holes for the two rails) and I used the kinematic drill guide and a handheld drill to drill out the center hole along the back edge and countersunk it like the others. I figured using my drill press would be harder to do along that edge in that I would need to get out clamps and not mar the surface/etc. I trusted my ability to use a drill by hand to be accurate enough for this one. Slow drill speed also helps - don't go ham on the soft aluminum.

The magnet sheet for the build plate on my 350mm is slightly different than the 300mm I built over the winter. It felt a bit more premium than the 300, so not sure what will come of the first couple bed meshes, but hoping all will be good. The magnet and heater went on easy (I guess now that I have done it before) and I actually used RTV on this one, whereas I didn't use it on the 300. Once I go with kinematic mounts on the 300, I may just put the RTV there since I have half a tube left anyway.

Printing out the new NevermoreV6 today so I will probably toss pics up next week of that install along with whatever else I can get done in the evenings. Also, pic of some more wire looms I printed.


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Managed to get the gantry on and stealthburner/tap mounted. Backers are mounted as well. Did that last weekend and over the week managed to start working on getting the electronics laid out.

I saw that the nevermore V6 was released and printed that out as I was interested in not having to cut up the fans and based on the STLs, basically drop in. I printed them out in the layout in my pic and realized it was a bad layout for the thin walls on the cartridge ... had a bit of bowing I think due to cooling with having the top side of the plenum so I would recommend giving them some distance. The plus side is that the fans actually just dropped in. The thickness on the topside plenum is pretty substantial and I am a fan. What I am not a fan of is the trick new slider on the cartridge. There wasn't an XL available and it adds complexity to something that you really only need to contain carbon - totally fine with a small screw every month. The lid is trick though ... and 100% works.

The other problem is that they changed the height of the extrusion mounting location and raised the filter off the baseplate a bit. The mounting hole used to be in the middle, but is now located toward the bottom of the plenum. This means that the whoppingchard kinematic mounts I installed, which ever so slightly extend past the edge of the extrusions they are mounted on, prevent the nevermoreV6 from sliding in and out. It wasn't a huge deal since it was just some filament and I can probably use it in the 300, but I went ahead and printed out a The Filter since I was hoping to give that a try should the v6 fail.

For electronics - here is my layout. I am still getting some ideas together, but I think this is the general theme. I will likely add two more Noctua 6025's to the side next to the PSUs to help pull air through the heatsinks since I think the other electronics on the rail are going to obstruct some of that flow from the intake fans. I drilled and tapped the heatsinks to the UHP-350 specs and started trying to fix some of the warping on the sinks using some clamps and scrap wood. I am going to attempt to make a thin ABS mount that has a build-in dual Din rail clamp. Getting the PSUs mounted to the heatsink is easy, but getting the sink to the rail is my main challenge now. Everything else seems to be easily mounted. I attempted to just mount thin din rail clamps on the bottom of the sinks and countersinked the bolt heads, but just not enough material to countersink and I don't want to have to fill the gap with even more thermal compound. I may even just resort to using the voron UHP-350 mounts (directly thought the PSU/sink w/long bolts) and attaching two short vertical din rails to the horizontal rails under the sinks. Seems janky, but would def work and I have the depth clearance to do so. Would also provide a bit more space under the sink for airflow as well, so that may be a plus.

Other electrical:
  • My local MicroCenter had Pi's in stock on Wednesday (20 4gb and 12 8gb!) so I managed to sneak out and grab one. Upgrading from a 3B is going to be nice on this build.
  • The 24->12v buck is there because I thought the TinyFan needed a 12v direct, but I think you can supply with 24v and it will buck. Have to work on that.
  • The din-mounted wago is there for power distribution out of the UHP-350-24. It only has 3 terminals out and I am not sure I am going to be able to get all the boards on 24 without doubling up spades. If I ditch it, then more room so I have no worries.
  • Still debating the CAN setup. Doing some configuration work of the Pi4 and boards today (Mainsail already there and working on my printer.cfg)
    • Flashed the OcoPro and working on the TinyFan and U2C next.
  • Went SPI vs. UART on the 5160 Pros on the Octopus so I hope I don't have to dig back into my board and pull those jumpers. Guess I will find out soon. @NoGuru - hope this was correct!
  • The USBs are all pointed toward the display and I have a 90 degree USB C ordered for the octopus.

  • Filters/bed fans
  • Realized I printed the regular z-idlers, not the pin mod version, so going to do that before I get it tuned and have to retune after belt-work.
  • Angrycam + corner Pi cam
  • Add exhaust Noctua 6025s
  • Wire up
  • Clean up
  • Panels
  • Tune
EDIT* - I am also toying with the idea of changing to accent color to Geomagnetic Mauve from Fusion Filaments. Roll arrives today ...


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Yes for the 5160's you need SPI.

Man, I love they layout you have setup. What is the fan setup over top the Octo?
They are the Octoglasses by Ramalama : https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Octopus_Pro_FanCase

Hoping that they keep the A/B steppers cool with the increased power. I have a heatsink to throw on the STM as well, but will probably do that once I get wiring in place and whatnot. You can't open the board power connectors with the glasses on due to the clearances, and they screw in from the bottom so you have to wire -> glasses -> mount to rail in order to use them.
I will check them out, thanks.
This is what I use on my steppers and it does work pretty well.
That is a better approach I think. I am a fan of the blower vs. axial as that would push in the same direction as the rest of the electronics chamber. I am tuning up a new filament today so I might just give it a print and keep it around in case the glasses don’t manage to wow me. Do you run it (the blower) at 1.0 or something lower? Was thinking that two 4010’s will be overkill at 100%, but … you never know.

Did you toss a thermistor on one of the 48v drivers? I think I may do that since I have a bunch in the drawer still. Might be interesting to track since I won’t be able to hit it with an infrared since it will be covered.
Hi tiamatu... I was just wondering how you liked the Honey Badger Single Sided PEI Sheet? I was planning on getting one but didn't know whether it was a game changer or just another pei sheet...
Hi tiamatu... I was just wondering how you liked the Honey Badger Single Sided PEI Sheet? I was planning on getting one but didn't know whether it was a game changer or just another pei sheet...
Hi there. I like it so far. Printed quite a bit on it and while no two filaments seem to print exactly the same, I have had pretty good luck with it vs. the formbot sheet I had before. I have resorted to just using Nano Polymer adhesive since it is basically a cheat code at this point since it just works. I coat the plate with like 10-14 drops and spritz with a shot of IPA and brush it on. I have a full build for my 350, a full build of a 0.2 (upgrading my 0.1 eventually), and lots of extra pieces and parts without touching the plate after the last time I hit it with Nano. Like nothing in between, no IPA or anything. It's been impressive.

I decided to change the accent color of my 350 today and tried to print a plate this afternoon and failed spectacularly on a few parts (yay for exclusion!) so I will probably wash with soap/water, hit with scotch bright, and check the surface again before throwing Nano on it. The only thing I did previously is just soap/water/IPA and had decent results. So as long as I soap/water/IPA after every couple prints I was good, but that was just too much work ... and I am lazy. Nano just works.

That said, I bought a second for my 350 since it seems to work better than the formbot sheet and I dig the black vs. gold. When I get done hitting it with scotch bright tomorrow I will try to reprint the fails from today as well as the rest of the accent parts without Nano. Will let you know how it goes here in the build log.


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Managed to figure out my heatsink dilemma. I used the first sink I ordered, which was based on the idea of having vertical rails. It was actually too short so I just ordered two more, but different types since the width and fin orientation were limited. After messing with ideas for mounting the sinks to the PSU and then the sinks to the din rails, I went back to the original and ... low and behold ... the sink fit between the voron UHP-350 mounts with clearance for the din rail to boot!
  • Ordered another one of those sinks for the other PSU so good to go there.
  • Used some JB Weld to get some M4 screws on the original din rails so I can mount the new aluminum rails to the OG rails vertically (perpendicularly)
  • Used some super thin thermal tape to mount the sink onto the PSU
The UHP-350 datasheet calls for an aluminum plate that is 450mm x 450mm x 3mm. That is like 200k sq. mm! I calculated the area of the sink I am using at ~ 40k sq. mm. so I am still pretty far off of the total sq. area of sink, but with the active cooling of the additional noctua's I think I will be able to get more than the 70% derated power that the datasheet calls for without the additional cooling associated with that much surface area. Not sure how Meanwell thinks someone who wants a compact PSU would also be mounting these within an enclosure with that much sink space. The performance declines with temp of course, so it isn't like it is instantly 70%, but feeling confident.

Seems like it was worth the effort, but I will probably be adding another thermistor between the sink and the PSU to check my work. Now up to 3 thermistors (chamber @ z-chain, A/B stepper driver, PSU) and will be hoping to tie in the TinyFan to adjust speeds to the temps.


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That is a better approach I think. I am a fan of the blower vs. axial as that would push in the same direction as the rest of the electronics chamber. I am tuning up a new filament today so I might just give it a print and keep it around in case the glasses don’t manage to wow me. Do you run it (the blower) at 1.0 or something lower? Was thinking that two 4010’s will be overkill at 100%, but … you never know.

Did you toss a thermistor on one of the 48v drivers? I think I may do that since I have a bunch in the drawer still. Might be interesting to track since I won’t be able to hit it with an infrared since it will be covered.
I don't have my config on me but if I recall, I have the fan set like the electronics bay fans to turn on with any driver movement and to turn off after so long of not moving.

I like what you are doing with the heatsinks on your PSU's. I wonder at what point do you just get one with Active cooling built in vs the Heatsinks?
I don't have my config on me but if I recall, I have the fan set like the electronics bay fans to turn on with any driver movement and to turn off after so long of not moving.

I like what you are doing with the heatsinks on your PSU's. I wonder at what point do you just get one with Active cooling built in vs the Heatsinks?

I was looking at those (LRS series) and I just couldn't figure out a layout that would let me get two in the electronics chamber. I suppose if I didn't have a tinyfan and a Pi and went with a Manta to combine the stepper board with the compute board I might have been able to squeeze it in. The LRS series would have been cheaper, but I think the tinyfan and PWM fans should do the trick. Derating curve is at something like 50 -70C so will will see!
Hi tiamatu... I was just wondering how you liked the Honey Badger Single Sided PEI Sheet? I was planning on getting one but didn't know whether it was a game changer or just another pei sheet...
So soap and water didn't give me great results. Even tried to baby step it down a bit for more squish and still managed to lift a bit. Checked the previous plate where the Nano had just worn off and it was a good first layer except for where the small finger juts out. You can see the bad extrusion lines that just didn't stick to the plate.

Threw on some Nano again and it was like fire and forget ...


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Well, I had lots of time this weekend to dump into the build! Managed to get the wiring done Friday night, configuration Saturday, and initial setup/tuning Sunday.

Completed items:
  • Wired up the 24 and 48 into the Octopus Pro on the Motor and Main power directly. Then I directed the second terminal lugs on each PSU to the distribution Wago blocks right next to the PSUs and made sure to put both (-) lugs into the same Wago for common. Powered the 24v->5v buck converter for the Pi from the distribution block as well as the TinyFan (24v that gets bucked down to 12v for the fans).
    • I wasn't sure I wanted to still use the buck converter since the RS25-5 is pretty much the same size, but with my layout I would have had to run three wires from the AC main Wagos all the way up to where the RS25-5 would have been and decided to just go with the buck and put that load on the 24v PSU since the A/B motors were on the 48v anyway.
  • Went with an EBB2240 for the Canbus toolhead. Managed to crimp the tiny connectors for the thermistor and Tap - that was a bit of a challenge, but only messed up one crimp. I ran the umbilical cable into the electronics compartment and then split the sleeve to route the power up to the 24v distribution block and then over to the Octopus and terminated with a RJ11 (USB->Can bridge mode).
  • Managed to snag a sweet Rapido 2.0 HF (PT100) from Fabreeko the night they were released. It went right in where the Rapido 1.0 HF was and fit perfectly. Kinda pumped that I managed to get one during this build. Don't plan on doing upgrades for a long while on this one.
  • Used 14awg for all the mains wiring (used the formbot inlet to switch wires to save time, but will go back and make new ones to cool my OCD ...) and 18awg for anything else
  • Put a thermistor on the outside of the 24v PSU (between the PSUs) using some thermal tape. Seems to work pretty well so far. Added a thermistor to the Z-chain and have it sticking just outside the outlet on the gantry. This should give me a reading near gantry level to supplement the toolhead EBB2240.
  • Angry cam mounted. Had to splice the USB and solder the cable to get it through the mount because I couldn't reliably depin the connector and I didn't have a ready replacement. Took time and ordered some of those tiny ones so I don't have to try that again. Had to also use a USB3 keystone as an adapter with an extension to reach the Pi.
Configuration stuff:
  • Running the A/B steppers at 1.4. Tried higher, but got some overtemp warnings and brought it down. As it sits now after homing, they hover at ~45-50c with my infrared thermo.
  • Speaking of homing - good god that sucked. Sensorless w/ the 5160's and 48v isn't exactly easy. The run currents and the lower resolution of the drivers took like 2.5hrs to get right. I was running 1.4 on the steppers and the configs called for the normal 0.7, which is ok, but the lower resolution of the 5160's of -64 to 64 (vs -255 to 255 on the 2209's) put me at the point where a value of 0 didn't move the gantry, but a 1 hits a bit harder that I would have hoped. It isn't bad, but there was no calculation of minimum to max. values of 2 caused crashes and belt skips. I used 0.7 for the x and 0.8 for the y run currents during homing and 1 as the value. Works pretty well I think.
  • Still can't get the Pi cam configured, but crowsnest log shows it as a device, so I think it just me learning how to add it in the config without being a /dev/video device.
  • Bed mesh cold had a variance of .0128, so I think that is pretty decent, but will see how it looks hot this week.
  • Tuned belts/deracked cold

Things still to do:
  • Bedfans printed out and waiting for install. Need to make a decision on whether I want to wait on the pogos from Ali or just hardwire them and let em go.
  • Side panels and exhaust fan setup
  • Some EM/PA/Input shaping - did a quick input shape, but since the bench was already vibrating from the 300 printing the filters, X was a little wonky. Y was ZV at <5100 so that is pretty decent. Will do another when the table isn't shaking and panels are all on.
  • Tinker with the Tinyfan settings - a few tweaks here and there are needed. The RP2040 MCU temps drop in and out, but I think that can be fixed. Remember seeing something about slow reporting prior to the reddit blackout. Also, the fans are way more quiet than the stock Formbot 6020 fans. I was running all 4 noctua 6025's at 100% and they were still more quiet than the 2 on my 300.
  • Print up the VEFACH and a couple spare Purple parts
  • Cable sleeve the umbilical - found a site that sells MDPC-X sleeving for keyboards and ordered some Vivid Purple to match the new accent color. Might try and hit the electronics compartment with sleeving at some point. Not sure about that yet.


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Quick Update:
  • Vacation, kid stuff, etc. - everything except printing
  • Managed to get all my snap latches printed and added some purple ones to mix in with the stellar black.
  • Got all the panels attached and buttoned up.
  • BedFans, Nevermore, and lighting all ready to go!
Longer Update:
  • Managed to do some test prints in PLA and ABS, to which there were a good number of failures out the gate. The PLA cube showed some VFA in the Y and the EM needs tuning for that filament, but it was old PLA from last year that just sat in a box after I used it for a project (like all 50g of it). Pretty sure it was wet, but just needed some PLA to push to get some basics down.
  • The ABS print took some effort to get the first layer tuned in and since I haven't done input shaping I still got some layer-related artifacts on the few prints I made.
  • The A/B belts were vibrating at various rates and I could see them start to move back and forth so I did some live tensioning until the vibrations that were gone. Once I get a couple more significant heat cycles in I will do another belt tune on the A/B/Z belts and make sure they are close.
  • Ran into a random undervoltage Klipper error related to the SB2240 and seems like there are at least a few posts about bad boards across the internet, but it happened 4hrs into a print, which sucked. Might be swaping that out with a SB2209 board to just eliminate this if it happens again.
    • Double checked voltages at the rails and getting 24.14 and 48.18 so pretty sure it isn't undervolted at this point.
  • Added the BTT Smart Filament sensor to the back vent area, but that will probably change and I will end up printing the VEFACH and running the sensor external on the back somewhere.
  • Found a 4-wire 5015 blower motor so I can use all three fan headers on the SB2240 ... that way I can use the current 2-pin header for the 3010 toolhead fan. Ordered off of Ali, so that will take some time to get here and then I will do the chang-eroo and get more air over the toolhead. The toolhead MCU temps were hitting 85C, so cooling probably a must.
  • The ACM bottom panel is sweet. My 350 chamber temps get to ~64C with only 60% bedfans and the Nevermore at 100% (cheap Amazon fans) while the same setup on my 300 with an ABS panel only gets to ~58C. The bed heaters are in the same % range during printing too, so that just points me at the fact that the ACM insulation is working.
  • Managed to finally open the X1C that has been sitting in the garage for a month. Wow. Just wow. Might just replace the 300 at this point.
  • Shades for the Daylight LEDs
  • Purple extrusion channel covers
  • Bottom electronics cover installed
  • Reroute and sleeve the umbilical


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Ok, guess I got lazy and forgot to keep updating my logs. Here goes ... strap in for a big ~ 5 month update.

Printer is a giant, fantastic beast. Wish I went with the 350 from the start ... but the 300 got some love as part of troubleshooting some clogging problems so there is that ...

350 Progress:
  • Switched out the EBB2240 with a EBB2209 due to the random PSU errors I was getting. There are a number of posts online about voltage issues the boards are having and I 100% had them. Switched out to a 2209 and never looked back! Been working great ever since that issue was corrected.
  • Installed K3-Style doors on the 300 and 350, which are wayyyyy nicer than the split doors. Got them from MRW and 6mm thick PC, magnetic closing. Hinges are super smooth with the bearings and the thickness helps retain more heat.
  • The LDO2804 motors are running 48v @ 1.4a and the chamber gets pretty hot with the ACM bottom and bed fans. The combo of the bedfans pushing the heat toward the motors and the running current is getting the tops of the motors (connected to the ABS motor mounts) to a slightly concerning 81-83C. I see some PC-CF or Alu gantry parts in my future.
300 Transformation:
  • So I embarked on making a medusa mask for a friend for halloween. 3 snakes took about 7hrs on the 300 and I kept getting clogs on the Revo. I thought it had to do with the retraction settings for the print, so mucked with those with a couple more fails, then realized the 4010 probably wasn't cooling enough. Started tearing down the stealthburner and realized the rail was gritty so started looking at a new rail. That led me to getting a new X-beam/backer/rail. Not any more light than the original, but alignment for the rail is easier and input shaper looked a little better so there is that.
  • While I was ordering the fan, I figured, why not get rid of the Revo since I moved to the Rapido2 on the 350. Why not go UHF? Well that leads to a different SB setup, so I will just avoid that and try out the XOL since I had an Orbiter 2.0 in a box somewhere for my (eventual) V0.1 upgrade to 0.2. Rapido2 UHF ftw.
  • Got a deal on some MRW kinematics (2 sets for $80 off the forums) so while I was ordering new doors, added some wings and cross brace for the kinematics set. (Still have another set if someone really wants it - not wanting to go through the hassle of drilling my 350 bed to mount up the wings so keeping the kinematics I already have on it.)
  • Realized that I would have to drill my bed so bought a new MRW mag-bed and new edge-to-edge heater. (Probably not worth the $$$ in terms of gain, but QoL is definitely nice with the magbed.
  • Liked the ACM panel on my 350 so got the bottom and back ACM for this one since I was already doing a ton of work on it. The combo of the bottom and back being ACM made me turn down the bedfans from 60% to 35% and temps are still 6-8C hotter than they used to be at nearly double the speed. Win in my book.

Odds and ends:
  • Working on my Pandora's Box build. Wanted to upgrade my V0.1 to PB, but realized I wanted more stuff than my Formbot V0.1 kit came with, so that is pretty much a scratch build that is almost done. Got the G2Z drives assembled and going on this weekend. G2SA on Dragonburner with a Revo Voron and using a Manta 5P w/ Ebb36. Blue frame / white ACM panels from DLLPDF and Stellar Blue/Polar White KVP ABS. Going to be sweet.
  • Started my K3 parts collection and going to be making that my winter project.
  • Beacon from an order a while ago finally shipped so going to be putting that in the 350 at some point. Need to do research on that a bit more before I decide on mount, etc.


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