Question Formbot Voron 2.4r2 pro with Manta M8Pv1.1 & CB1 "No MCU"

[NGS]

Hi Everyone,
I'm trying to build myself a Format 2.4, with a Manta M8P + CB1 + SB2209 (RP2040) (its a steep learing curve!)
Im following the build instructions of Butter Pockets prints on You tube (

)
Its all gone pretty well but now im trying to set up the software and I cant get the MCU Serial number to put in the config file.
When I look in kIAUH "GET MCU ID" I get
"No MCU found!
MCU either not connected or not detected!"
If anyone else had had this issue and has solved it, or could point me in the right direction to solve it, I would very much appreciate it.

 

[bomtarnes]

Following videos when flashing boards can be quite tricky and error prone. Partially referenced in that video is an earlier version of this website: https://canbus.esoterical.online/Getting_Started.html which I'd strongly recommend following.

 

[NGS]

Following videos when flashing boards can be quite tricky and error prone. Partially referenced in that video is an earlier version of this website: https://canbus.esoterical.online/Getting_Started.html which I'd strongly recommend following.

Thanks, I will have a look at that later today.

 

[delta88ragtop]

My Formbot 2.4 pro, purchased a month, ago came with the updated Manta mp8 V2.1. The video and instructions are for a Manta V1.0/1.

 

[NGS]

Hi, mines a V1.1, same as in the video, hope yours is going well

 

[delta88ragtop]

Hi, mines a V1.1, same as in the video, hope yours is going well

I had a M8P v1.1 and CB1 that I brought on sale. I used that to match the build and saved the newer version for another printer. The kit was a 250... what was I thinking? very little spare room in the electronics bay. I had to mount the dins perpendicular for the psu to fit. I just got klipper to connect to the printer and now... It's Time.

It's Time! (IT)
You've spent hour upon hour of endless hours piecing together a pile of bits and pieces. Motors, mounts, modules, extrusions, extruders, end stops, hot ends, and heaters, probes, printed parts, wires, connectors and fans. The pile that you assembled that is more than required because you gave into the temptation of upgrades and add-ons. The parts that ascended the standard bill of materials and the established standard build guidance available. The lack of discapline that allowed you to step off the given path. Now it's time! Time to address the printer.cfg file. The bible that assembles your lifeless creation into a living instrument. The gospel who's language is unfamiliar to you. The commandments that cannot be broken or misunderstood. It's Time.

Just finished writing that little bit to post somewhere here... So far so good but slow. Chased down a lose Tx pin for the tool head board and got the arguments for the boards to communicate in printer.cfg. Those where the hardest part to get by so far. The last printer I built was 20 years ago, a Geetech i3pro with Marlin. Man have times changed...

 

[Dr.Who12]

Hi, mines a V1.1, same as in the video, hope yours is going well

Did you ever get it working? Voron2.4R2 Pro+ with BTT Manta M8P + CB1, EBB SB2209 CAN and all the upgrades. Mine was a little difficult but it is up and running now with a Cartographer3D Z instead of TAP.

 

[delta88ragtop]

Did you ever get it working? Voron2.4R2 Pro+ with BTT Manta M8P + CB1, EBB SB2209 CAN and all the upgrades. Mine was a little difficult but it is up and running now with a Cartographer3D Z instead of TAP.

It's been up and running GREAT. Printing better than my Creality K1 Max. The 2.4 250 has already printed all the parts out for a 300 build that I'm finishing the wiring up now. I was just on here looking for a stl/thread for a mounting bracket for the LDO AB motors that hold the little pigtail connector and I noticed your notification. For the 300 I'm using a M8P v2.0 + CB2.

 

[NGS]

Did you ever get it working? Voron2.4R2 Pro+ with BTT Manta M8P + CB1, EBB SB2209 CAN and all the upgrades. Mine was a little difficult but it is up and running now with a Cartographer3D Z instead of TAP.

Hi, its not up and running yet, its hard to find the time to play on it but its a few steps closer to getting sorted, Turns out that in the video I was watching theres a bit furthe ron that says something like "if you dont do this then klipper cant see the MCU" sooooo... following the steps actually works (so user error really ). Now klipper can connect its going to be following up on all the error messages and sorting them out (fingers crossed). I have done this before on another machine so feel more confident about being able to do that.
Nice to hear yours is going so well and your happy with it!
I got a Bambu lab P1s to do some quick printing but will be very happy when the voron is sorted and engineering plastics can be used

 

[NGS]

Hi, its not up and running yet, its hard to find the time to play on it but its a few steps closer to getting sorted, Turns out that in the video I was watching theres a bit furthe ron that says something like "if you dont do this then klipper cant see the MCU" sooooo... following the steps actually works (so user error really ). Now klipper can connect its going to be following up on all the error messages and sorting them out (fingers crossed). I have done this before on another machine so feel more confident about being able to do that.
Nice to hear yours is going so well and your happy with it!
I got a Bambu lab P1s to do some quick printing but will be very happy when the voron is sorted and engineering plastics can be used

was there a reason you decided not to use tap?

 

[Dr.Who12]

was there a reason you decided not to use tap?

I'm guessing that was directed to me. Yes there is a reason. Tap takes forever to map the bed and honestly it isn't that accurate. The Cartographer 3D doesn't touch the bed and I can map the entire bed in about 20 seconds. I've also enjoyed better prints, well at least until they updated the software. Something has changed since the update and now I'm having some Z height issues with it printing too close to the bed. The way it is supposed to work is you do the calibration using a sheet of paper then lock it in and it takes care of the rest. It's not working right now so I'm trying to figure out what has changed or what needs to change. My benchy comes out with a messed up bow on one side of it.