Just ordered a LDO 2.4R2 350mm kit. Advice?

Rat_Patrol · Nov 27, 2023

Bought it from Matter Hackers for their Black Friday sale, so I don't even have it yet, but I wanted to know if there was any advice for before I even get started?

I ordered the TAP kit with it, along with a Rpi from Matter Hackers.
I ordered 3 spools of ASA from 3DXTech. Went with a red frame, blue primary, black secondary colors

It comes with a Revo hotend.

I currently have a Prusa MK3s with MMU3, and a modded Mini, and I was tinkering with printers prior to these, including a home built unit running an old duet and RepRap fw (now is a pile of parts in a box), so I'm no where new to the 3D printing game. I also have a resin printer, but I haven't fired it up on close to a year I suppose.

vinnycordeiro · Nov 27, 2023

Don't forget to print the parts on an enclosed printer (a cardboard box over a Prusa should be enough)
Read and reread the assembly manual before starting to get used with the process
Enjoy the journey

Rat_Patrol · Nov 27, 2023

Regarding a filament sensor, I went ahead and ordered the BTT smart filament sensor. Is that a good choice? I'm honestly surprised that Voron doesn't have a filament runout sensor as standard.

lord-carlos · Nov 28, 2023

Rat_Patrol said:
Regarding a filament sensor, I went ahead and ordered the BTT smart filament sensor. Is that a good choice? I'm honestly surprised that Voron doesn't have a filament runout sensor as standard.

The new 2.0 square version yes. The old rounded one not so much.

Filament sensor and bed sheet endstop is what I miss as well.

Rat_Patrol · Nov 28, 2023

Yes, I did get the square v2 filament sensor.

Rat_Patrol · Nov 28, 2023

Of course blue thread locker on the grub screws, but should all screws have a re-usable coating like vibra-tite?

vinnycordeiro · Nov 29, 2023

You only need threadlocker on the pulleys grub screws, they are all marked in the manual. All the rest doesn't need it.

Sandman50 · Nov 29, 2023

Rat_Patrol said:
Regarding a filament sensor, I went ahead and ordered the BTT smart filament sensor. Is that a good choice? I'm honestly surprised that Voron doesn't have a filament runout sensor as standard.

I use it as well. It has saved some prints due to a stuck filament spool a few times.

Since you are not new to printers, the CAN toolhead saves a lot of time and complexity. There are a few step-by-step guides to get it up and running.

That aside, I would peruse the various mods for the 2.4. There are some like the rocknroll that are really convenient for a bigger printer like the 350. Others are bling. The other mods that makes a lot of sense (IMHO) is the Side entry exhaust housing and the 270 degree hinges.

Side entry:

Side entry exhaust housing by 120decibell

Exhaust housing with dual cover screws and single or dual side entry filament paths.

mods.vorondesign.com

RockNRoll

RockNRoll by RockNLol

Rockers to roll the printer on its back for easier access to the electronics compartment

mods.vorondesign.com

If you want to do a CAN toolhead, then relocate the Z chain.

Voron Can Bus z-chain move by Richard M | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Doing the can bus conversion I wanted to move the z chain to below the gantry to be more out of the way, using x/y chain | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

and use PG7 mounts for the umbilical.

Voron 2.4 A Drive PG7 umbilical mount by jphalip | Download free STL model | Printables.com

This is a remix of Hartk's PG7 mount with some clearance added to fit alongside Minsekt's Y endstop relocation mount. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

PG7 at the toolhead:

Printables

www.printables.com

AwDuck · Dec 4, 2023

Rat_Patrol said:
Of course blue thread locker on the grub screws, but should all screws have a re-usable coating like vibra-tite?

I did vibra-tite on everything that threaded into metal, though mine was going to have to make a heck of a transit once assembled, but I don't think it could hurt for the average Joe to use it either.

Ginko72 · Dec 6, 2023

So, I just did basically the same thing. V2 350 kit from MH. I did get the FYSETC aluminum parts and am gearing up to print the remaining parts. I have an enclosed printer which does quite well with ABS. My question is:

In printing the ABS printer parts, what's the best way to get parts that require the least rework? Besides following the assembly manual's instruction for print settings.

My thoughts...

Is it ok to print a thicker and wider line width on the first layer to get better adhesion?
Should I do elephant foot correction on the first layers?
Should I slightly under extrude (I think that the test cube recommendation is 92%)?
Is there a difficult part that I should print first and measure/test fit to tune up before diving into the whole job?

Thanks!!

Sanity Agathion · Dec 6, 2023

Ginko72 said:
So, I just did basically the same thing. V2 350 kit from MH. I did get the FYSETC aluminum parts and am gearing up to print the remaining parts. I have an enclosed printer which does quite well with ABS. My question is:

In printing the ABS printer parts, what's the best way to get parts that require the least rework? Besides following the assembly manual's instruction for print settings.

My thoughts...

Is it ok to print a thicker and wider line width on the first layer to get better adhesion?

Should I do elephant foot correction on the first layers?

Should I slightly under extrude (I think that the test cube recommendation is 92%)?

Is there a difficult part that I should print first and measure/test fit to tune up before diving into the whole job?

Thanks!!

VORON manual on page 4 (usually) tells how to print VORON parts. Those were made with ABS in mind - meaning tolerances for holes etc. account for some filament shrinkage. Parts are already exported in correct orientation for printing, no need trying to figure out how to place them. They were made to be printed on widest variety of printers people try to print ABS on, so don't stress too much about them

You will do good.

For elephant foot, there is mandatory 45-degree 0.4 mm overhang on every VORON printed part.

The most difficult part may probably be Clockwork 2 extruder parts, which need to fit into each other, and may test some overhang and bridging capabilities of your printer (turn part cooling fan for ABS/ASA, even 15-20% or even more depending on chamber temperature will be of great help with printing those).

As for flow, slicers tend to overeextrude ABS, plus Prusa Slicer has that 5% flow reduction related to some Bondtech gears math. For testing fitment, I usually print this part, and test it with F695 bearing and few M3 hexnuts. It's a short ~25 minute print on slow Ender or Prusa. You can see and feel top surface for overextrusion. If you can shove F695 bearing and hexnuts in without the use of excessive force, and they do not fall out their own, you are good to go.

Rat_Patrol · Dec 18, 2023

I have prints on my MK3 for the Voron, so this project is starting in earnest. Won't be super fast though, I have to balance printer time and work time with Voron time

Anyway, for the config, (jumping ahead, I know), can I configure the chamber thermister to indicate whether to activate the exhaust fan at a certain temp easily enough to avoid overheating the chamber? There enough pins available on the Octopus board?

Sandman50 · Dec 18, 2023

Yes, there are enough pins on an octopus.

The code requires:

Section to control the fan and thermistor - a [temperature_fan Chamber]
Slicer passthrough for the chamber temp
Start code to change the default chamber tempt to the higher one for the print, then back down to default to pull it down.

Printer.cfg code:

Code:

#####################################################################
#    Chamber Fan Control
#####################################################################

[temperature_fan Chamber]
# Printing chamber exhaust fan
pin: PD13 # Fan 3
max_power: 0.8
shutdown_speed: 0.0
kick_start_time: 0.75
cycle_time:0.01
off_below:0.3
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PF5 # TH1
min_temp: 0.0
max_temp: 70
target_temp: 35
max_delta: 1.25
control: watermark
gcode_id: C

Slicer passthrough, Cura in this case.

Code:

print_start EXTRUDER={material_print_temperature_layer_0} BED={material_bed_temperature_layer_0} CHAMBER={build_volume_temperature}

Print Start

Code:

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
    # This part fetches data from your slicer. Such as bed temp, extruder temp, Chamber temp and size of your printer.
    {% set target_bed = params.BED|int %}
    {% set target_extruder = params.EXTRUDER|default("260")|int %}
    {% set target_Chamber = params.CHAMBER|default("50")|int %}
    {% set x_wait = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x|float / 2 %}
    {% set y_wait = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y|float / 2 %}


    M141 S{target_Chamber}       # Sets exhaust fan and Chamber targets

Macro 141

Code:

###################################
##
##     Chamber Temp Control
##
##  https://github.com/zellneralex/klipper_config/blob/master/fan.cfg
##  https://github.com/claudermilk/TridentBackup/blob/master/fans.cfg
##
###################################


[gcode_macro M141]
description: Set temperature of Chamber fan
gcode: SET_TEMPERATURE_FAN_TARGET temperature_fan=Chamber target={params.S|default(0)}

Search

Search

Just ordered a LDO 2.4R2 350mm kit. Advice?

Rat_Patrol

Member

vinnycordeiro

Well-known member

Rat_Patrol

Member

lord-carlos

Well-known member

Rat_Patrol

Member

Rat_Patrol

Member

vinnycordeiro

Well-known member

Sandman50

Well-known member

Side entry exhaust housing by 120decibell

RockNRoll by RockNLol

Voron Can Bus z-chain move by Richard M | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Voron 2.4 A Drive PG7 umbilical mount by jphalip | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Printables

AwDuck

New member

Ginko72

New member

Sanity Agathion

Administrator

Rat_Patrol

Member

Sandman50

Well-known member

Similar threads