WhiteWulfe
Well-known member
I definitely need to get myself a few rolls of that Geomagnetic Mauve... Looks so good with that Space Grey frame!
VORON Design
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members!
LDO V0.2-S1 Build
- Thread starter claudermilk
- Start date
Beginning electrical parts now! It took a while to get a time window we could work on it (and she was motivated to do at least a little); I suspect she's a little intimidated by the idea of working on PC boards and wires.
Toolhead board.
I'm an idiot. Looking at another installation image just now, I see where the motor cable is supposed to go. I'm pulling the toolhead board off later and re-routing the cable correctly.
Picobilical frame PCB
The peels!
Finally, power supply and inlet switch.
I managed to forget to print the controller/Pi mount parts, so we couldn't get those done--and she was about done at this point anyway. Next up: mounting the controller and Pi and starting to attach wires.
Toolhead board.
I'm an idiot. Looking at another installation image just now, I see where the motor cable is supposed to go. I'm pulling the toolhead board off later and re-routing the cable correctly.
Picobilical frame PCB
The peels!
Finally, power supply and inlet switch.
I managed to forget to print the controller/Pi mount parts, so we couldn't get those done--and she was about done at this point anyway. Next up: mounting the controller and Pi and starting to attach wires.
As promised, I tweaked toolhead wiring routing. It's much cleaner now. I think this will pass @Sanity Agathion 's serial checks.
Also, thanks @YaaJ for making me check those Picobilical Frame PCB jumpers. They were indeed set to 5V. Fixed now.
Also, thanks @YaaJ for making me check those Picobilical Frame PCB jumpers. They were indeed set to 5V. Fixed now.
It looks 
Big progress! Wiring is done! Next is making it move--that is tomorrow.
Mounting the electronics cooling fan.
Prepping the controllers, and mounted.
Connecting the power supply, and the nice safety cover.
First exposure to these tiny darn connectors. Yes, I'm totally cheating using her small hands for this stuff.
Wiring montage!
A full cable channel, and covered!
\
Connecting the umbilical. This took some care--enough pressure is needed that I was worried about breaking things.
How it sits now. Next up is inserting the flashed SD and starting software configs and printer checks. Getting close!
Mounting the electronics cooling fan.
Prepping the controllers, and mounted.
Connecting the power supply, and the nice safety cover.
First exposure to these tiny darn connectors. Yes, I'm totally cheating using her small hands for this stuff.
Wiring montage!
A full cable channel, and covered!
\Connecting the umbilical. This took some care--enough pressure is needed that I was worried about breaking things.
How it sits now. Next up is inserting the flashed SD and starting software configs and printer checks. Getting close!
Had some difficulty with the Picobilical frame PCB. I wasn't seeing any 5V out on it. Probed everything and all but that looked ok to me. I eventually built a quick power jumper to power the Pi per the main build documentation from the SKR Pico. That got me running enough to get the Pi going with Klipper, Moonraker, and Fluidd installed. I was able to get the SKR Pico flashed no problem, and got the Picobilical flashed. But I only was able to get the serial ID on that sucker once. After lots of poking, unplugging another USB cable from the Picobilical board (trying to re-flash from a PC) I noticed the 24V leads moved. It turns out both the 24V and 5V leads hadn't gotten truly secured even after triple checking. For some reason those terminal blocks are really touchy. I made darn sure both sets are really, truly secure. Now I have solid power going to the board, and coming out. Now ready to get the config file set up and get this little guy moving.
First hit on the Fluidd page after getting the Pi set up.
And as of last night.
Time to reprise this gif!
While we melted plastic, no print just yet. It was getting late and I somehow mis-set the z-offset; I'll get that redone and we will print a cube later today.
And as of last night.
Time to reprise this gif!
While we melted plastic, no print just yet. It was getting late and I somehow mis-set the z-offset; I'll get that redone and we will print a cube later today.
I printed a thing!
The finish line is in sight now. Just panels, skirts, and tophat left to build. Then all the software/macros tweaking and tuning.
While I kept my daughter's attention long enough to walk her through the broad strokes of installing Klipper and setting up the config files, it's not holding her attention. So I'll tackle the tedium of tuning--she's ready to just start slicing and printing stuff.
The interesting bit with that cube is I used the default V0 config for SuperSlicer (though I turned on firmware retract) and my generated filament tuning from the Trident. PA & EM testes pretty much tracked exactly with this printer, so I don't see a need to redo all that for now.
Oh, and bed leveling and getting z-offset right is killing me. I now really appreciate the z_tilt_adjust and Tap on the Trident.
The finish line is in sight now. Just panels, skirts, and tophat left to build. Then all the software/macros tweaking and tuning.
While I kept my daughter's attention long enough to walk her through the broad strokes of installing Klipper and setting up the config files, it's not holding her attention. So I'll tackle the tedium of tuning--she's ready to just start slicing and printing stuff.
The interesting bit with that cube is I used the default V0 config for SuperSlicer (though I turned on firmware retract) and my generated filament tuning from the Trident. PA & EM testes pretty much tracked exactly with this printer, so I don't see a need to redo all that for now.
Oh, and bed leveling and getting z-offset right is killing me. I now really appreciate the z_tilt_adjust and Tap on the Trident.
Good choice on printing the v0.2-rev1 camlocks with the hex openings, rather than the ones with the Voron logo. Hopefully you printed the rev1 feet and skirts, too, or else you're in for a surprise when you go to install the bottom panel. 
Also, don't forget about Input Shaping. Relatively quick and easy one-time run which really made a difference in ghosting for me.
Also, don't forget about Input Shaping. Relatively quick and easy one-time run which really made a difference in ghosting for me.
Yes, all r1 parts printed. I was tempted with the stealth skirts, but those aren't updated for r1 yet, so stock style. Input Shaping is part of the tuning--it's nice that it's builty in to the tool head PCB. I'm just not bothering until the panels and tophat are attached.
Getting really close to the finish line. Panels went on this time. Tophat is next, and that will be it.
The peel!
Bottom panel going on. This will make @Steve happy.
Back panel with all the pixies safely contained.
And where we sit now.
As you can see, @transonic_gecko the skirts all fit nicely.
The peel!
Bottom panel going on. This will make @Steve happy.
Back panel with all the pixies safely contained.
And where we sit now.
As you can see, @transonic_gecko the skirts all fit nicely.
Looks good!As you can see, @transonic_gecko the skirts all fit nicely.
The skirts on mine went on nicely, too. But when I went to install the bottom panel, it wouldn't fit properly (bowed significantly in the middle because the feet and skirts were too short). This was a design flaw with v0.2-s1 that was fixed with Rev 1, and I was able to use my v0.2 to print the Rev 1 parts and retrofit after the initial build.
On another note, it looks like you also opted for the LDO removable spool holder (unless the spool holder was redesigned in Rev 1 and I missed it?). I've found that mine likes to pivot down somewhat, due to the weight of the spool. I can't seem to tighten down the clip enough to prevent the pivot. I might need to use a shorter screw....
Fin.
Now for tuning, software tweaks , and mods! Oh, and recording a serial video.
She got distracted (and had some more homework to do), so I mostly handled sorting what subtly different bracket went where on the tophat for the panels. She did make sure to record herself doing the peels--she's a pro now.
@transonic_gecko I'll keep an eye on that holder. I used the typical M3x8 and the bracket fits tight (I had to do some light filing to get it to fit).
Now for tuning, software tweaks , and mods! Oh, and recording a serial video.
She got distracted (and had some more homework to do), so I mostly handled sorting what subtly different bracket went where on the tophat for the panels. She did make sure to record herself doing the peels--she's a pro now.
@transonic_gecko I'll keep an eye on that holder. I used the typical M3x8 and the bracket fits tight (I had to do some light filing to get it to fit).
FYI, trying to get input shaper set up was giving me fits. Unfortunately the instructions are scattered in several places and the current last instructions for installing numpy are incorrect. It throws an error that no BLAS libraries can be found. After much searching, I found the solution on the Klipper discourse. Using ~/klippy-env/bin/pip install -v numpy==1.25.2 allowed numpy to install and now input shaper is off and running.
Oh yeah, I'd forgotten about that part. I followed the scattered instructions myself and numpy appeared to install correctly (albeit suspiciously quickly), but wouldn't work. I ended up doing something similar to your fix... I think I might have installed numpy to my base system in addition to the virtual environment? Glad you got it to work!
I tried installing numpy with pip3 and it seemed to go ok and way too quickly. Input shaper still wouldn't work which got me searching again and finally turned up that solution. After finally getting a good run there, I printed a calidragon which turned out really clean.
If you get a chance, maybe you could post your input shaper curves if you saved them?
Unfortunately I didn't on this run. It resulted in mzv on X and zv on y. Suggested mx accels are pretty high at 21,400 and 18,400 respectively (the 250 Trident is currently down at 8,000 & 12,000).
Mods!
Let there be light! Rainbow on a Matchstick in the very nice Maple Leaf Makers mounts. I'm not super thrilled with the wire routing, I'll have to come up with something to clean that up. Probably a 1515 version of the channel cover if the wires & cover can all fit. I've stolen my Trident klipper-led-effects definitions and tweaked them for the V0.2; ditched all the ones not applicable (Tap probing, z-tilt, mesh, etc) and altered colors. Because the standby now uses breathe effect from cyan to purple. Of course.
Also added the nice little handles to make carrying it around easier. I shifted them towards the back so it balances nicely.
Let there be light! Rainbow on a Matchstick in the very nice Maple Leaf Makers mounts. I'm not super thrilled with the wire routing, I'll have to come up with something to clean that up. Probably a 1515 version of the channel cover if the wires & cover can all fit. I've stolen my Trident klipper-led-effects definitions and tweaked them for the V0.2; ditched all the ones not applicable (Tap probing, z-tilt, mesh, etc) and altered colors. Because the standby now uses breathe effect from cyan to purple. Of course.
Also added the nice little handles to make carrying it around easier. I shifted them towards the back so it balances nicely.
