New build and tap

[Joshuamcvey]

Hey guys...just got my 2.4 350 kit and I'm opting to install tap right off the bat
I'm using the hartke pcb mod too
Is there anything I need to look out for or any advice for a new builder in this situation?

 

[Durahl]

• Ensure the Sensor will work with the Voltage you get from the PCB.
• You'll still have to do a Z-Calibration at least once ( IMHO, preferably after doing like a PROBE_ACCURACY SAMPLES=100 for it to have set in ) and whenever you've disassembled the Tap.
• You'll also have to do some Baby Stepping during your first Print at least once.

Something I'd personally recommend splurging on when going with Tap is upgrading to the CNC Tap right away - The difference in increased Rigidity and higher Accelerations I got out of going with it after the 3D Printed Tap ( latest Revision but modified so separate parts would be a single Piece Print ) were massive.

 

[claudermilk]

Like @Durahl said, make sure you have the appropriate optical sensor voltage. I recently had to rewire my Trident and went with the 2-piece hartk board. I use the v2.4.1 optosensor PCB with it and it works well.

 

[Joshuamcvey]

the sensor is 5v?
Ive got the hartke pcb...I can just pull 5v and send data with it right?

 

[Joshuamcvey]

Im reading your experience on a separate post Clauder

so the short of it is...you got TAP working on the v4 two piece Pcb from hartke?

 

[claudermilk]

Yes, the 2-piece hartk PCBs and the latest 24V optical PCB, which is version 2.4.1. That takes the 24V the hartk board is sending for the inductive and adds the overvolt protections so it doesn't melt down on power up. Specifically this PCB: https://kb-3d.com/store/printer-specific-pcbs/737-linneo-opto-tap-pcb-v241-complete-524v.html Note that the included wire is directional, read the label on the bag and plug it in the right way.

 

[pigsy2001]

I have a chaotic lab cnc tap with 2 piece pcb set up.
I had to mod & re wire to supply 5v but it was not that difficult at all. Tap is really awesome !

 

[Andreas]

I‘m doing sth comparable. New build and going for Tap but in my case with Canbus. I had the first Tap version from last year and I now changed to the most recent Optotap 2.4.1. I‘d recommend this for you since it takes both, 5V and 24V.

Gives more options for the connection, also provides easy diagnose by giving you working states through the LED and even options to shut the LED off in case you don’t need it anymore

 

[Joshuamcvey]

Yeah... I'm using the v3 2 piece hartke version and pulling 5v off the 5v header...... Its all so confusing... I thought the mechanical part was going to be the most difficult, it was actually fun.... The wiring and firmware got me shook up.

I‘m doing sth comparable. New build and going for Tap but in my case with Canbus. I had the first Tap version from last year and I now changed to the most recent Optotap 2.4.1. I‘d recommend this for you since it takes both, 5V and 24V.

Gives more options for the connection, also provides easy diagnose by giving you working states through the LED and even options to shut the LED off in case you don’t need it anymore