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Resonance before & after corners

stevereno30

Active member
I have a 350mm V2 that has some bizarre behaviors. This particular one confuses me more than any other... How is it possible that I get resonance rippling before *and* after corners? Also, if anyone knows the cause of the ugly texture that appears on inside corners, I'd love to get rid of that (visible on the left side of the Y). This print was in vase mode, so no seams.

1000009091.jpg
 
Yes, the machine is fully tuned. I can do every part of Ellis' guide by memory at this point. I've spent maybe 30+ hours trying to tune this issue out of this machine to no avail. I've also replaced every part that I feel could contribute to this issue, but it remains. My machine has some serious gremlins that are extremely good at hiding.
 
Yes, the machine is fully tuned. I can do every part of Ellis' guide by memory at this point. I've spent maybe 30+ hours trying to tune this issue out of this machine to no avail. I've also replaced every part that I feel could contribute to this issue, but it remains. My machine has some serious gremlins that are extremely good at hiding.
Is this a kit or self sourced?
Does this happen if you slow the printer down?
 
Is this a kit or self sourced?
Does this happen if you slow the printer down?
It is a Formbot kit that has basically had everything on the gantry replaced with self sourced parts. When I print slower, the resonance goes away, but the overshooting does not. Basically, on cylinders, I get something like the right image instead of the left (arrows indicate printing direction). When printing slow, I get a lot of vibration that makes my print surface look like garbage, but I don't get the wiggling after the overshooting.
 

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Motors?
Are your Steppers tuned?
Just trying to ask things you may have overlooked.
 
I appreciate that. I'm hoping I've overlooked something. My AB motors are the BOM OMC motors with TMC 2209's and I notice no differences when using TMC Autotune. In the past few days I've also tried swapping my front idlers for BFI's, swapping my AB mounts for pins mod mounts, swapping my Vitalii Tap for a printed R8 Tap, and swapping my dragon hotend for a V6. None of those changes had any impact. In all instances, I printed two single walled cylinders, one at 150mm/s, the other at 15mm/s. All of them have that bump at y-max and y-min positions.
 
I appreciate that. I'm hoping I've overlooked something. My AB motors are the BOM OMC motors with TMC 2209's and I notice no differences when using TMC Autotune. In the past few days I've also tried swapping my front idlers for BFI's, swapping my AB mounts for pins mod mounts, swapping my Vitalii Tap for a printed R8 Tap, and swapping my dragon hotend for a V6. None of those changes had any impact. In all instances, I printed two single walled cylinders, one at 150mm/s, the other at 15mm/s. All of them have that bump at y-max and y-min positions.
Okay at that point I would say try a different slicer. Maybe even two different ones.
 
Yeah I think that is worth trying. I am using the most recent version of Prusa Slicer at the moment. I think Cura would give the most different results, but do you think something like Orca would be different enough from Prusa?
 
Cura sliced gcode still has the bump (see below). I feel that is evidence enough to say this is definitely mechanical in nature. 1000009393.png
 
It's difficult to see in the pic. I think Orca is worth a shot, even though its a fork of PS the coding is very different.

If you still think its mechanical, start to look outside of the Gantry. I can't think of what else it could be but maybe someone has more insight.
 
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