VORON Design
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Tap with hartk 2 Piece
- Thread starter mac1321
- Start date
Self-wired or the V2 Tap PCB? I'm going to be converting my Trident over to Tap and I have the V2 Tap PCB and the 2-piece hartk. I got that Tap board with the thought that it should just plug straight in, but the recent announcement on the issue makes me nervous.
V2 tap PCB is what I got and then the 2-piece hartk.
it all depends on if you are using a 24v tap pcb (which i would hold off on at the moment in light of the current issues with them ) or a 5v tap pcb
with a 5v tap PCB there is a modification you can make to the PCB to change the FS header to be a 5v probe header
to make the FS header a 5v option, you will need to cut the trace where the red line is and solder a small jumper wire between the 2 pins that the green line connects
with a 5v tap PCB there is a modification you can make to the PCB to change the FS header to be a 5v probe header
to make the FS header a 5v option, you will need to cut the trace where the red line is and solder a small jumper wire between the 2 pins that the green line connects
Yezariael
Well-known member
v2 PCB 5v-24v
I got a message from LAB4450 where I purchased it that they don't sell the PCB version anymore because of lots of problems reported. Mine works fine, seems that I am not affected from this problems.
24V tap pcb is under investigation for reported problems, initial reports point to a knockoff component that is specific to 24V pcbs. lab4450 are known for using genuine and well soldered parts so that might explain why yours works
Yup, I'm waiting for now. I have the Linneo V2.1 board purchased from KB-3D. I've seen reports of my exact planned setup working (Tap V2.1 -> hartk 2-piece -> LDO breakout -> Octopus), but I can wait. I need to get my Klicky either working again or revert to inductive to even get the printer running to print parts anyway.
It also sounds like there's some wiring tweaks that need to be made for the Tap to hartk board with the included jumper.
It also sounds like there's some wiring tweaks that need to be made for the Tap to hartk board with the included jumper.
Sam going to wait. I have a klicky ready to be built as that was the plan when I purchased the machine to do but tap came out so I figured I would go that route since was in the build phase. So I'll just keep down the klicky path until this is resolved. Hoping vendors will send out replacement boards once a fix is in place or at least offer a discount on them since the ones we all got are not really a good idea to use.
I believe that is the preferred method right now, but I am using the 2.1 pcb and running the 24v w/ no issues. I have over 100hrs on the probe at this point and seems to be just fine. When I pre-ordered TAP I just got 2 of the 2.1 and then one of the 5v for good measure. Ended up not needing the replacements, but if I only had one, I would hook up to 5v as it seems like zero issues at that voltage.
As far as I know and can tell the hartk PCB sends 24V to the probe port. It's meant for the stock inductive setup. As of right now I have not installed the hartk & LDO PCBs. I could not get the v2.1 Tap PCB to work a all, so I eventually got a wired optical sensor and got that working after a brief semi-successful detour through UnTap. I did switch the power for the sensor port to 5V on my Octopus controller.
glennpierce
Member
Can I ask what the idea of the bat85 diode is. I had assumed it was clamping from 24v to 5v for an IO pin but that seems not to be the case if we have to make this modification ?
glennpierce
Member
Oh I guess it may but this hack prevents destroying the optical sensor pcb not about dealing with a higher voltage signal.
