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VORON 2.4 alternate wiring (without cable chain)

OlegMalykin

New member
Printer Model
Voron 2.4
Extruder Type
Clockwork 2
Cooling Type
Stealthburner
Hi
I tried, but I didn’t find a posts on this topic.
Why doesn't anyone assembly Vororn 2.4 without cable chains?
We can do the wiring like a canbus assembly\wiring.
I don't want to connect the canbus, but I'm thinking of assembling the wires as shown in the picture.
What do you think?
Why doesn't anyone do this?

1712755556604.png
 
Sure you can do it like that. Just no that the wiring will be sort of heavy and not easy to support.
 
but I'm thinking of assembling the wires as shown in the picture.
...
Why doesn't anyone do this?

I think that picture is of a Trident with the fixed gantry, but even so, that picture shows the biggest reason.

The green wiring bundle is folded over against the top panel, and look at how far the gantry plane is from the top. If you did that on a v2.4, and needed to keep it enclosed, you would lose quite a bit of Z-axis travel. And it's difficult to re-angle/re-route the wiring, because the v2.4 - particularly in a 350 config - has a LONG travel range (and required umbilical length) from the lowest front corner to the highest rear corner. There are ways around these issues of course, but there are tradeoffs to be made, so it isn't quite a slam-dunk solution.
 
I am not using any cable chains as i dont like them running canbus looking for a way to keep the A/B motor wiring harnesses encased in wire loom from falling onto build plate when the gantry is at beggining z height. i have a badge holder holding up the canbus cable uptop.
 
I am not using any cable chains as i dont like them running canbus looking for a way to keep the A/B motor wiring harnesses encased in wire loom from falling onto build plate when the gantry is at beggining z height. i have a badge holder holding up the canbus cable uptop.
Try using ptfe tube in the toolhead wire loom to keep it supported ive also seen them use piano wire.
 
Try using ptfe tube in the toolhead wire loom to keep it supported ive also seen them use piano wire.
Yep, I make my loom and PTFE the same length by moving the toolhead to the far corner and make sure there is just enough to reach.
 
I am going to change my 350 to an umbilical because since I bought this machine second hand, already built by previous owner, I have had 3 wire breakages and it is a nightmare. I was a fan of cable chains before now, and we use them in our industry often and for almost everything, but on these little dinky printers they are nothing but a source of hassle.

I am thinking to run a pneumatic tube with piano wire inside as a shape keeper. Will experiment a bit but I am 100% sure I will strip the cable chain off and also replace the wires the builder used.
For instance those fiber insulated heater wires are dreadful for moving and rubbing against other wires, NEVER EVER use those and use silicon instead. After a couple of weeks of use my machine also has a light dusting of this white powder which comes of this type of cable insulation. Why don't people keep to the recommended specs I will never understand.
 
I'm running the same setup as in the picture on my 2.4. You might lose a bit of height but that was never an issue for me. I bought a stupid expensive robotic cable that is especially made for a lot of movements. I bought a sample of 3 or 4 pieces and stuck with the one I liked most in terms of being flexibel as well as sturdy enough to not dangle around on my bed.
 
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