Voron 2.4R2 Pro+

[Dr.Who12]

Printer Model

Voron 2.4R2 Pro Plus

Extruder Type

Other

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

Hi. I received my Voron about a week ago and it is the latest release build 2.4R2 Pro+. I was informed that there were upgrades made to the build that I received and I had opted for the functional and cosmetic high quality 3D printed parts, genuine Phaetus Rapido 2 Hot End PT1000 350 C UHF, and the CANbus upgrade. Everything assembled fine until I got to the X Carriage. The carriage was missing along with the cable chain attachment. I printed the carriage on my old Creality printer and got it together. Then I got to the Stealthburner assembly and cannot find documentation that shows how to assemble it. I found an old video but these parts are different. Has anyone come across new assembly instructions for the newest build of the Pro+, not the old 2022 instructions.

 

[vinnycordeiro]

The "Pro Plus" moniker isn't an official one used by Voron Design. I'm assuming you bought a kit, so in that case this was added by the kit's manufacturer as a form to differentiate themselves from other vendors. The most recent build instructions really are from 2022, there wasn't any updates since then. (actually they replaced the Afterburner assembly instructions with the Stealthburner assembly some months ago, that's on the Github repo but not on the release files.)

This is the perfect time to say that Voron Design does not endorse any kit by any manufacturer, even if many of them are really good and recommended by many community members individually.

 

[Dr.Who12]

The "Pro Plus" moniker isn't an official one used by Voron Design. I'm assuming you bought a kit, so in that case this was added by the kit's manufacturer as a form to differentiate themselves from other vendors. The most recent build instructions really are from 2022, there wasn't any updates since then.

This is the perfect time to say that Voron Design does not endorse any kit by any manufacturer, even if many of them are really good and recommended by many community members individually.

Thanks. I'm stuck now, even missing printed parts that I paid for through 3DPrintersbay which is actually Formbot3D. Guess I'll have to wait until they are finished with Tomb-Sweeping day in China to ask them for help.

 

[Scarabe]

Your kit shouldn't have the 'regular' x carriage parts because they're replaced with Tap. Also, the CANBus variant doesn't use cable chain to the Stealthburner so you won't need that either. The kit should come with a different arm for the CANBus mount.

The Stealthburner instructions are linked from the regular Voron 2.4 instruction PDF, or you can find them googling. The kit will have little variations, and so will Tap, and so will your hotend, so you'll have to figure those out.

 

[Dr.Who12]

Your kit shouldn't have the 'regular' x carriage parts because they're replaced with Tap. Also, the CANBus variant doesn't use cable chain to the Stealthburner so you won't need that either. The kit should come with a different arm for the CANBus mount.

The Stealthburner instructions are linked from the regular Voron 2.4 instruction PDF, or you can find them googling. The kit will have little variations, and so will Tap, and so will your hotend, so you'll have to figure those out.

After reaching out to the vendor, they supplied me with some documentation. It was helpful, however there were some steps that were in the instructions that did not apply. (like removing some extra print material on one of the pieces that actually kept the belts facing forward. Overall between that and having to make some wiring adjustments, I should be well on my way now.

 

[RocknRolla]

After reaching out to the vendor, they supplied me with some documentation.

I had the same problem... Was the additional documentation via links that you can share? I'll reach out to the vendor if not, but it would be helpful to have it here for others searching anyway.

My vendor was 3dprintersbay.com. But this appears to just be a storefront for formbot3d. I bought the kit because it was cheap enough that I figured I could spend about $300 adding or replacing parts before it would not be economical... So far I'm OK on that, but it is much closer to the break-even point than I hoped.

 

[Dr.Who12]

STL files: https://drive.google.com/file/d/11nKZk7vjYy9ADPq-8vDks7oAebybWieG/view?usp=drive_link
Wiring diagram: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cq7LWvDv7ZkAo8UH1fZQUC-eRevE1t4u/view?usp=sharing
Other instruction: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aPEM3c196QlizwaSirfEfZp9uD5wwVSW/view?usp=sharing

I also went to Big Tree Tech to search my board install, Stealthburner, Phaetus and CAN for P1000 that I'm using for my TAP. We seem to have purchased from the same vendor. What options did you select?

 

[RocknRolla]

I also went to Big Tree Tech to search my board install, Stealthburner, Phaetus and CAN for P1000 that I'm using for my TAP. We seem to have purchased from the same vendor. What options did you select?

Just as I ordered, they had changed their kit to make CAN Bus standard, and changed from Octopus to the Manta 8P v1.1 board with a BTT kind of light version of a Raspberry Pi "compute module" that plugs straight into the Manta. I added the Phateus Rapido HS (P1000, 350 degree max). I don't have a printer, so added the full set of parts... Kind of regret that. They aren't bad, but not great either. And there are some really great vendors at the same price point via Etsy.

I notice the kit's DIN Rails are shorter than spec, sized for the 250mm V2.4... I know that can work, but I ordered some proper length ones that turn out to be really flimsy... Might just use the shorter ones that came with it. I also am skeptical of the BTT compute module (and really like to make things hard for myself apparently), so bought a 2GB actual Pi 4 Compute Module. We'll see if I can get things to compile for it. Worst case, I fall back to the BTT and follow the normal instructions.

I intend to put a Galileo 2 extruder in place of the Clockworks 2 in the Stealthburner... Unsure if it is because of "just OK" print quality on the printed parts, or if it's just the nature of the clockworks 2 extruder, but I'm having a heck of a time getting the screws tight enough to hold it together, without being too tight for it to operate properly. As I'm not chasing max speed, the slightly heavier Galileo 2 should still be plenty fast, while eliminating that complexity and potential maintenance issues.

 

[Dr.Who12]

Just as I ordered, they had changed their kit to make CAN Bus standard, and changed from Octopus to the Manta 8P v1.1 board with a BTT kind of light version of a Raspberry Pi "compute module" that plugs straight into the Manta. I added the Phateus Rapido HS (P1000, 350 degree max). I don't have a printer, so added the full set of parts... Kind of regret that. They aren't bad, but not great either. And there are some really great vendors at the same price point via Etsy.

I notice the kit's DIN Rails are shorter than spec, sized for the 250mm V2.4... I know that can work, but I ordered some proper length ones that turn out to be really flimsy... Might just use the shorter ones that came with it. I also am skeptical of the BTT compute module (and really like to make things hard for myself apparently), so bought a 2GB actual Pi 4 Compute Module. We'll see if I can get things to compile for it. Worst case, I fall back to the BTT and follow the normal instructions.

I intend to put a Galileo 2 extruder in place of the Clockworks 2 in the Stealthburner... Unsure if it is because of "just OK" print quality on the printed parts, or if it's just the nature of the clockworks 2 extruder, but I'm having a heck of a time getting the screws tight enough to hold it together, without being too tight for it to operate properly. As I'm not chasing max speed, the slightly heavier Galileo 2 should still be plenty fast, while eliminating that complexity and potential maintenance issues.

So I was able to figure out some of the wiring on mine last night. I suggest purchasing (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WPT5M1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to crimp the new connectors on. Going back and forth between vendors like BTT and Voron with their install instructions, I've gotten quite dizzy and frustrated. I finally figured out where my Y end stop mounts by looking at all of the corners and realized there was a cutout for the switch. Stealthburner was a pain because 2 of the screws that went into the bracket that the rail is on, were not designated so I had to figure that out. Now the TAP works fine. The issue with the mounting rails being short is not a problem. All of the electronics will mount to the rails on the bottom. Fun part is going to be powering it up and hoping I don't fry anything in the TAP or SB2440. By the way, the tether attachment that holds the cable and wire for the SB2440 needs to be modified as it covers the USB-C connector on the SB2440 board. Since this is all a very new upgrade, I'm sure we are not the only ones dealing with this. So maybe tomorrow I will have it assembled and possibly up and running. I'm on this site as well, (https://www.facebook.com/groups/voroncorexy).