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Voron v0.1 build - Siboor Kit


So I built a Prusa MK3s a couple of months ago and now I feel I am comfortable to try to build a voron. I saw MandicReally on youtube has a video about it. Was wondering if anyone have experiences on Siboor as well, and many have some tips/suggestions? I mainly choose this kit to try out the Gemini v2 integrated board with AllWinner H5.

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I picked up this kit a few months back during an August AliEx sale. Was the first kit I've seen that included printed parts which for the most part are of decent quality, but may require some post processing, ie enlarging holes or removing elephants foot, etc. While the one I got included the colors as seen in your photo, there now appears to be a version with standard black/red parts availble. The Mellow Gemini v2 board with it's integrated RPi-Alternative was also a plus for this kit. I like it so much I have ordered another one (The Gemini) to go into my Switchwire build and replace the SKRe3 mini / RPi Zero combo that it currently uses.

Things I'll point out;
I was a bit skeptical at first about the pcb nutbars, but they worked fine as long as you don't crank down too hard.
The rigid mount v6 clone works alright (as Mandic found out, just don't bother with the clone CHT nozzle), but I would recommend to replace it with a dragon or dragonfly, something I plan to do in the near future.
I did have one 3d printed part missing with a duplicate of another part in it's place. I was able to print a replacement out of ABS+ on another printer.
A printed board holder for the Gemini was not included, but it will mount with included nylon standoffs on the inner backplate, but if you print a board holder you can mount it a bit lower.
Apparently newer versions of the kit have panels that are cut with mounting tabs already, as well as a back panel with an airflow opening about where the steppers would be. I plan to print ZeroPanels as a future mod for this.
I did encounter an issue with my extrusion motor where I had to flip two of the wiring pins, though I don't believe Mandic had this issue.
As Mandic noted, you'll want/need to power limit the bed in the config file.

Overall I have had no regrets with it given the price paid and it'll make for a good base to mod into a Tri-Zero at a future date.
No no no do not buy from Siboor! Absolute awful quality parts in all regards. I've had to replace literally every single component from the Siboor V0.1 kit I built in August. Take a look at the printed parts I received from them: reddit link. Then when I asked for replacements or refund they refused and sent me a set of 5 "Genuine Hiwin rails," which are obvious counterfeits and perform worse than the no-name rails I originally had. Do not give this company your money.
I got one coming in as well. I do have some parts to sub in for some of their other parts that I will no doubt find questionable.

But for the price I really couldn't say no.

With my Fysetc and 3 Formbot kits I'll be busy for a little while. Though each new build goes way quicker than the last. And having a little Printers for Ants Army is quite fun to watch.

I still need to find time for my 3 2.4 kits, vZbots (4), and a couple other projects. If I could get my kids to help, I'd be just sitting back watching printers.
No no no do not buy from Siboor! Absolute awful quality parts in all regards. I've had to replace literally every single component from the Siboor V0.1 kit I built in August. Take a look at the printed parts I received from them: reddit link. Then when I asked for replacements or refund they refused and sent me a set of 5 "Genuine Hiwin rails," which are obvious counterfeits and perform worse than the no-name rails I originally had. Do not give this company your money.
Oops too late. I did some heat insert and this stuff does smell like ABS. I always use locktight now that's gonna be a concern. Too lazy to print ABS parts out of my Prusa's that is why I went with this Voron kit. Hopefully I can print replacement parts before Siboor parts fail.

Really not happy if those rails are not Hiwin's as advertised...
Hopefully I can print replacement parts before Siboor parts fail.
That is my intent; to slowly have it print replacement parts. I heard they have extrusion issues as well, but I won't be able to be certain until I have it in hand. Hopefully they took advice and improved upon some issues.
I bought 2 v0 kits and one 2.4 kit, reflecting on some of my troubles I have had I don’t think I would buy again. Both v0 kits I have had issues with my printing parts breaking or cracking. The mounts for the pancake stepper on the extruder are failed on both v0 kits without getting to print with them once. I had to rewire the pancake motor as well . The extruder on either v0 will not feed filaments. I’m assuming it’s a tolerance problem so I will just reprint all printed parts.
I started assembling the 2.4 I’m currently at calibration right before first print after running into the following issues with the 2.4
I resonance tuned the belts to 146 hz. The calibration of induction probe after proper belt adjustment gives too much variance. And the printer fails on qgl. This is after confirming my z offset is accurate and trying to calibrate the probe. I ordered a klicky kit from west 3d to overcome this. I have rechecked for belt and gantry racking but still cannot get within Voron tolerance.
I bought the kit with printed parts and opted for nylon, if I had to choose again I’d go with abs. Some parts are substitutes of Voron official versions and tolerances are not equal. I had to contact the seller to get the afterburner parts shipped to me after the fact because it wasn’t included, which caused a delay in assembly. I was told afterwards since I chose nylon it wasn’t included, they did send the parts in abs at no additional charge.
The linear rails need to be cleaned throughout and properly lubed they aren’t smooth on arrival, I know this is normal just make sure you clean them good.
The config files for any of the printers weren’t included I had to contact seller to get a base starting point. All 3 sd cards were supposed to be flashed with firmware and config files.
My acrylic panels on 2.4 are currently on with masking tape because none of the printed parts for the panels or the nevermore were included. When I purchased I was under the assumption that all parts were included. The seller told me everything I needed was included which is misleading.
The bed heater on the 2.4 was 110vor 220v the wiring diagram wasn’t clear about wiring in fact there are 2 variations which the wires can be different it’s even stated as much o. The wiring diagram.
The wiring diagram included with the printer mislabeled extruder motor and z0 motor location causing to some frustration and legwork digging into fystec spider documents. They did ship the spider 2.3 however the pin out is different then previous boards causing wiring issues.
At the time of writing this post my chamber heater from pcb still causes an mcu shutdown I have to recheck the pcb solder connections. All these problems have caused a headache while building the printers and currently none of the 3 are operating needing various fill in the gap issues. The money saved ends up not being saved and by the time you buy or fill in the gaps you could have purchased an Ldo kit. It’s frustrating and the seller has always responded and tried to help I just feel like they are 80 percent kits with all the qc issues and missing items.
Okay the Siboor Voron v0.1 is finally about assembled. As others have mentioned many of the silver parts will crack and fall apart, so I have had to re-print the following so far: XY_Joints, Mini Afterburner Guildler, Latch, Motor_Frame & X_Carriage

It appears the mini Afterburner is so poorly printed I doubt it will feed filament.

My kit came with the umbilical PCB wiring set. I am not using it for now just want to see if it prints first so I can get a serial.

As others have said E-motor wiring will need to swap red/blue wire position. Also end-stops will need to be converted from 2pin to 3pin to fit the Fly Gemini v2.

The was absolutely no help from Siboor hardware wise. They will promise to send some replacements or missing screws, but never does. I noticed they have a much higher priced CNC v0.1 now with dragon hotend.
Complete as of now. Overall satisfied with the result. It was not without difficulties however I am seeing Siboor improving their build which is promising. They finally sent me some spare parts I needed, better late than never. Kit came with umbilical mod but that is on the back-burner after many many quality & life improvement mods.


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I had forgotten about this. Glad to see some folks got them and have them running. Siboor sat around not doing anything, so I inquired about when the printer would be getting to me. They blamed covid and Candice not showing up to work. Took them about a month to finally refund as well.

Glad you guys got yours, but I won't be dealing with them any more. Plus their prices are astronomical now!
I have built two Voron 0.2R1s from Siboor. I did not use their printed parts and so I cannot comment on that part of the kit. The rest of the kit seemed to be good for at least the first month. On both machines the CHC V6(this is what it is labelled from them) intermittently failed on the thermistor and the machine would randomly shutdown with a thermal runaway. On one the included Fly Gemini V3 failed, so I installed a Pi 4B and the BTT Pico and haven't had issues since. When making the change I didn't notice that the pins for the end stops are swapped and the board wouldn't start, I thought I fried it at first.

I have installed a phaetus dragonfly on one(sometimes clogs) and the other just now got a Revo Voron, as the end user requires the simplicity.

Doing the math I would still recommend the kit despite these failures because the parts to replace these two failures are ~$200, which amounts to slightly less than the LDO kit. I don't have any complaints about the "Siboor" labelled rails but it's possible I don't know enough to notice any inaccuracies they could have introduced. I believe that the original configuration given from Siboor for this version has the A/B motors set to a much higher current than necessary (1.2) and suspect this contributed to the board failing.

I am unsure of the question regarding the z axis tension spring as I installed mine as the guide stated and had no issues, it's possible the 0.2R1 kit had a different spring included.