What features would you like to see in 0.3?

[Sandman50]

Orca has some nice stuff that automates the process and that would be cool - though the Bambu X1C has a camera on the printhead to do that calibration at the start of every print. Would be nice to have that as an add-on to a Klipper / Voron unit.

 

[Dave32]

I'd like to see some degree of automatic tuning for EM and PA added. Whether it's a Klipper macro and a doc page or a camera and AI, either is fine.
Using Ellis' print tuning guide is fine, but reducing those "necessary" steps is better.

You mean like the ones built into Orca slicer?

Link for reference.

Calibration

G-code generator for 3D printers (Bambu, Prusa, Voron, VzBot, RatRig, Creality, etc.) - SoftFever/OrcaSlicer

github.com

Ellis provides a wealth of information which we are lucky to have, but in some cases I actually prefer these simpler calibrations built in to OrcaSlicer.

For example, the pressure advance tower. It's simple, has no reliance on first layer quality, and is easy to remove when finished. The Ellis pattern can be a pain to remove if your bed adhesion is too strong, and the Line Method is a nightmare - hundreds of small details to pick off of the build plate.

 

[Akio]

I'd like to see a solution for the "shit, I have forgotten to put a nut in that rail" problem. And maybe change from MGN7 to MGN9 on X.

I just made a small tutorial how to make one of these yourself if you don't live in a region where you can buy them...

Voron 0 - how to make your own drop in nuts (LDO style frames)

So you built a Voron 0 and noticed too late that you forgot to preload a hex nut? Or you chose to do a mod to your V0 that needs some additional hex nuts in your extrusions? If you have a makerbeam style aluminium extrusion you probably will need to disassemble your frame, at least partly. But...

forum.vorondesign.com

 

[ChrisA]

Kirigami won't become spec, regardless of how Nemgrea himself and other people adore it. It's a custom-made part, VORON philosophy is to make printers from common parts which can be bought worldwide.

Kirigami was an attempt to fix a problem in the V0 design where the bed was not rigidly mounted. I think V0.3 should address the problem by redesigning the bed mount. 1515 extrusions could work. One idea is to use two carriages on each z-rail. You need a longer z-rail but four car systems are very common in motion control. Or maybe just drilling the 1515 extrusion and mounting them direct to the carrages, metal on metal, no plastic.

 

[Mike4D]

V0.3 you say? What new features, you ask? Ask no more, I got this
Just add two more Z Steppers and MGN7 rails, no extra chances needed, to solve all the wobbly cantilever issues (yes) no matter what you do cantilever is cantilever, even on a 120mm build.

 

[claudermilk]

So...a Salad Fork then.

 

[Mike4D]

So...a Salad Fork then.

nope, stock V0 with 2 extra Z steppers and rails, everything else is the same, even the X/Y travel as I use Revo PZ
Sald Fork make sense stating with 180/160 build plate, 120 is a bit small if someone is building new printer for ants, and that is saying someone who built 120 Micron