Wire Strippers for (Laquered?) Cloth/Fiber Jacket PT1000 Wire?

[RocknRolla]

I needed to replace the connector on a PT1000 recently from a Formbot Kit. I assume because of the temperatures, it has a fiberous cloth-like jacket with an outer laquer-like shell. Super PITA to strip, and the best I could do left the end of the jacket frayed in a way that seemed negative for the end crimping.

I tried a razor but found the super thin wires made this really sketchy.
I tried a high end pinch and pull type wire stripper that works beautifully on most normal wired, but it just slides off.
I tried two different admittedly cheap plier/scissor type wire strippers. They worked very poorly... Basically just frayed the ends.
I tried a powered hot knife wire stripper made for industrial use, but the fibers in the jacket have a higher melt temp than the stripper.
I tried wrapping the wire with tape first, but didn't really work because tape doesn't stick to this wire.
I tried heat-shrinking before stripping. This helped and is what I ended up using. But it was still far from ideal.

Is there a special tool for this? Will a top quality Japanese, German or USA made pliers-type wire stripper work well, or will that still be a pain?

Thanks in advance for any tips.

 

[Spice_King]

It's probably a fiberglass sleeving on the wire. No stripper I've tried did a good job. I borked a Revo Heatercore a while back and redid the thermistor ends by fraying the end enough to make the sleeve loose at the end and bare wire come away from the fiber. Took my crappy/sacrificial side cutters and cut the fiber along one wall of the sleeve as far as I wanted, then trimmed the sleeve back by pulling the cut sleeve away from the wire (letting the wire out the cut that I made) and cutting the unwanted sleeve off without damaging the wire underneath. Not going to say it was ideal, but it did do the job well for the tools on hand.

 

[RocknRolla]

I didn't know fiberglass shielding was a thing, but was thinking it looked like fiberglass before you said so. That's what I needed to know, to research it. The least expensive promising lead is a rotary cutter for about $180... I'm unlikely to need to handle this more than a few times a year if ever. So back to the razor knife and tweezers.

Thanks much.

 

[claudermilk]

The fiberglass-sheathed wire is indeed a PITA to deal with. Fortunately I've only had to mess with that once (an older, bad Revo thermistor lead). I used my Iwiss strippers to get it as good as I could, then careful use of the side-cutters to clean up the bits of frayed fiberglass after. It worked well enough.

 

[NoGuru]

Might be easier to just replace the entire thermistor depending on your setup.

 

[Yaaj]

No problems with these wire strippers :

 

[Sandman50]

I put a little piece of heatshrink over the end to dress the frayed sheath.

 

[Upperbottom]

I'm looking at the same prospect. I have a revo hotend and a BTT canbus (RP2040) that needs to be re-crimped. I solved the initial crimping by using the connector that came with the revo, cut the formbot wire and soldered it to the connector with crimp-solder sleeves, problem solved... Now I'm thinking about doing the same but instead of the sleeves i use the correct crimped connector (an adapter).

Yay or Nay?

 

[Sandman50]

As long as the connection is robust and doesn't induce some stress someplace. Crimps normally fail where the wire enters the crimpled part, so ensure that part doesn't' have a lot of side load. Just know that if you are doing this to the hotend wires, they are likely the most loaded in the entire robot. So I would inspect them after a few prints to look for burning.

 

[5twenty]

I put a little piece of heatshrink over the end to dress the frayed sheath.

Or vinyl tape. This is how we always cut our ropes, or winch lines. Tape up the are to be cut, cut.