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Solved Z-banding exaggerated at single wall

Printer Model
V0
Extruder Type
Orbiter
Cooling Type
Other
Hello, I get exaggerated Z-banding on a single wall as shown below with this 20 mm test cube. The face with the "Y" is fine, and opposite to "Y" is fine. The face with the "X" is fine, but the face opposite to "X" has these uneven steps. I've tried slicing with various features adjusted:

OrcaSlicer
- precise wall on/off
- fan speed 60% always vs adjusting
- slow printer down for better layer cooling
- accel_to_decel on/off

I've ran the Klipper recommended skew calibration for X & Y. There was only a difference of 141.1 vs 140.8 in the skew test but enabling skew vs not made no difference.


comparison.png

The wall opposite to this issue has the "X" and I don't see the same Z-bands on it so I didn't think it was a belt issue. However, I did reuse the same belts when I removed my X-carriage during a change to a new toolhead and it was tricky to get the belts pulled through their slots again. Without additional belt to grab hold of and pull I ended up pulling one side through by 4 teeth and then just clamping the other side in with the maker beam nuts retaining them. Would unequal belt tension left/right cause this single wall Z-band? Has anyone encountered a similar issue or recognize the problem?


X.png
 
Replaced belts, greased all rails, trammed each axis, performed input shaper, updated max acceleration from 2000 to 10,000. Only succeeded in degrading the front face of the cube so now it matches the rear face :confused:.

I thought since the Y-axis is worse that would explain why the front and rear X-face have these Z-bands if the Y-axis can't hit the same spot repeatably.

I thought maybe the X-carriage was rocking due to picobilical wire bundle or filament guide. Replaced it and saw no difference.

I rotated the cube in the slicer and the problem follows the hardware orientation.

Still stumped.
 

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Bypassed the filament tube routing up through the rear and fed directly from above. No improvement.

Dismounted dragon burner, tightened QTY 4 screws retaining voron revo hotend, and re-assembled careful to tighten each screw along the way. No improvement.

Removed 0.40mm nozzle and replaced with another, careful to tighten all the way as snug as my fingers could get it. No improvement.
 
Last edited:
That is a hard one to diagnose. Could be motors, could be stepper drivers, steps used, idler pully's...
 
Changing the Orca Slicer wall printing order to be Inner-Outer-Inner fixed the issue. Harsh lighting or none I now cannot tell the difference between part orientation on the build plate. All four walls are equally balanced. As all things should be.

Inner-outer-inner.JPG
 
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