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LDO Voron 2.4 Build with All Metal Parts

Here we go...
blister.jpg
Blistered IC...

felloff.jpg
Component fell off this one, it was not damaged or marked, the damage is from my poor attempt to re-seat the component with poor eyesight and no optics.
I do have the necessary equipment (trinocular microscope) but no room to set it up and I am a pretty good solderer after 45 years of doing it...

Again in hindsight, I should have tested the component before re-soldering it, it was probably faulty by then...
I've ordered 10 replacement buffers, best get out my microscope, it hasn't had any work this year... :giggle:
 
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Hmm...
Is there any chance that the "RGB" line is shorted? (Not on the PCB, but on your string of LEDs.)
 
I checked the board and the leds four times, no shorts... besides, it has a 100Ω resistor on the output, that would pretty much prevent blowing the device (assuming a if 5V supply), also, the third board worked perfectly and is still working. The only way I see to cause this damage is if I connected the connector up one place, that would result in the chip/buffer getting 24V...

It's a bit of a mystery...
 
besides, it has a 100Ω resistor on the output, that would pretty much prevent blowing the device (assuming a if 5V supply)
I did see that... it seems like a poor component choice though. The IC is only rated for 50mA of current as the "absolute maximum" - and in a short circuit condition that could easily be exceeded due to the standard tolerances (5-10% is common) on the resistor. In truth, 50mA is a LOT of current for a data line... they probably should have selected a different resistor value to keep that fault current a bit lower.

The only way I see to cause this damage is if I connected the connector up one place, that would result in the chip/buffer getting 24V...
Could be! It's too bad they didn't key the connectors to prevent this from happening...
 
Could be! It's too bad they didn't key the connectors to prevent this from happening...
My exact thoughts, I believe a keyed version exists, I'm sure I saw one previously, exact pin count and pitch...
I did scope the signal, a schmitt trigger is definitely required...

As there's a the 100 ohm limiting resistor, the buffer must source, but even so, 20-30mA should be enough for these leds.
The resistor could be increased to 150-180 ohms but the best solution would be a keyed connector...
 
Extra Fans
As the skirt will accommodate two additional 60mm fans, I purchased and installed two NF-A6x25 FLX fans. Needless to say they are quiet, very quiet...
It's time to update the default 60mm fans...

I should add, I've gone from noisy to quiet with a few simple changes to fan speeds and some damping. I can now print in the same room without getting a headache... :whistle:
 
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I may have forgotten to post an update on this, the new SB0000 replacement worked flawlessly, I was extra careful during assembly/alignment...

Over the past three months, If a print stick, it prints flawlessly...
When printing the same part in PLA using exact same slicer settings, sometimes I have no stringing, sometimes a little, and other times a lot ... another mystery...
 
Thoughts after building Voron 2.4 Rev C and spending almost six months with it...

Was it worth the money?

Being an all metal build cost including metal Tap and both sets of tensioners, plus additional plastic parts and other spares cost: €2000
There's no doubt I could get comparable results from a commercial printer for less investment but I would not have full control over the hardware or software.

Was it worth the effort?
Absolutely, I learned a great deal from this build, I have no regrets whatsoever...

Things that stand out:
Quad gantry leveling, ChaoticLab's Tap, E3D Revo Hotend (LDO Edition), LDO's Bed Quality, Voron design and attention to detail and community support...

Essential Upgrades (4 me):
ChaoticLab's Tap v2, I just like it...
CANBus, adds to build complexity but absolutely wort it...

tbc...
 
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Can you post a picture of your z joints from the side? I was curious to see what the spacing looks like with the adjustable z joints. The chaotic lab GitHub has no mention on how tight or loose they should be. I have looked and cannot find anywhere where someone mentions how tight the springs should be.
 
I was speaking of the actual Z-joints with the conical springs. Not the actual tensioners. Like in this picture.
 

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My apologies I misunderstood...
Here is the picture, I tightened these to about 1/3 of the shaft length, just enough provide tension... max would be half way....
20240617_192707.jpg
 
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