Printing Voron STLs on Ender 3 Pro, good enough?

[buchankn]

I'm taking the plunge, and building a Voron 2.4 as my first Voron build. I'd like to eventually get it running with multiple tool heads so I can print with support material, and maybe multiple colors.

Anyway, I've enclosed my Ender 3 Pro, tuned it using Ellis' tuning guide, and started printing the STLs. I printed the voron test STL screws, and those screwed together pretty easily.

However, I'm concerned about whether the parts will be strong enough. The enclosure only reaches temperatures of about 100-115 degrees F. Will this be enough? I don't see any curling/warping on the parts. I'm printing at 250 degrees hotend, bed temperature 110, using a microswiss direct drive hotend.

What do you think? Do these parts look good enough? Do you think the layers will be strong enough with the lower chamber temperature? Or should I just do PIF?

 

[NoGuru]

Parts look fine and I think you will be good.

 

[vinnycordeiro]

Please, in the future use just one temperature measurement standard. Mixing Fahrenheit with Celsius just makes us confused: for a moment I was worried that your chamber temperature was too high and would start to affect your printer's parts, just to see that it was in F...

The main purpose of the enclosure is to prevent cold air drafts, those can cause warping and/or delamination. Since the chamber temperature is quite low (high 30s, low 40s Celsius) you may need to not use part cooling, but that's that. If your test prints went as expected you'll be fine.

 

[claudermilk]

Those parts look fine, go ahead with building your printer. As a point of reference, I built my Trident going on 3 years ago(!). The parts were printed on my Prusa Mini+ under a cardboard box (yes, really). 90% of those parts are still on the printer and show no signs of needing replacement.

 

[buchankn]

Thank you everyone for confirming that the parts look ok! You're right, it is confusing to mix Celsius and Fahrenheit, in the future I'll just stick with Celsius. I'll have to switch my portable thermometer units that I keep in the enclosure...

Lol, a cardboard box! I always think of fire when I hear people talking about using one It gets the job done though!

I did have the fan running at 30% for those parts. Maybe I'll try turning it off on the next batch of parts I print, and see how they look.

 

[claudermilk]

No, keep the fan going. ABS actually does need a little & 30% is about where I run.

Yes, cardboard box does sound scary, but it's not right by the hot end and the temps aren't that high. I jury-rigged a webcam & desk lamp in it so I could keep an eye on the print without having to lift the box & disturb the warm air pocket.

 

[NoGuru]

Thank you everyone for confirming that the parts look ok! You're right, it is confusing to mix Celsius and Fahrenheit, in the future I'll just stick with Celsius. I'll have to switch my portable thermometer units that I keep in the enclosure...

Lol, a cardboard box! I always think of fire when I hear people talking about using one It gets the job done though!

I did have the fan running at 30% for those parts. Maybe I'll try turning it off on the next batch of parts I print, and see how they look.

Being on an open bed slinger might help turning the fan off or down while printing ABS/ASA but if you are in an enclosure you will want the fan on when printing.