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Solved Rapido Current Draw & Octopus


Well-known member
Printer Model
Voron 2.4
Extruder Type
Clockwork 2
Cooling Type
I noticed the LDO addendum recommends swapping the SSR and HE0 connections when using a Rapido. But according to this post, the hotend is driven by a 60A MOSFET. According to Fabreeko, the Rapido can draw up to ~106W. At 24V that's less than 4.5 amps. That seems like plenty? I'd worry more about the wires in the umbilical though wanted to get people's thoughts.

The mod isn't particularly difficult to do it looks like but it looks like I'll need to make some new cables and is something I didn't want to have to wait on to get the printer up and running.
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I have an LDO V2.4 Rev 2 kit using a Rapido. I wired the Rapido during the build as recommended by LDO. I have been using it for the last 5-6 months without any issues.
I mostly print with ASA and typically run the hotend at 260C and the bed between 100C and 105C. The mod isn't too difficult to do but you do need the proper crimping tools and will need to have some spade terminals and ferrule connectors. Be sure not to forget to update the printer.cfg file.
Just because the mosfet is technically stamped for some absurd current draw, doesn't mean its actually setup for that. Cooling and pcb trace size are major factors that limit it to far lower performance lower in the real world. That being said, rapido's current draw also drops down even more once it heats up. So the end result is its hard to know. I'd play it safe and move it, personally.
Realized I had the extension cable that came with the Rapido as well as some spade connectors from a different project. So I was able to rewire everything. Regardless of the nozzle, this does seem like the better solution all around since the SSR doesn't need much power on the DC side? If so, hoping LDO updates the wiring for their next kit to just always wire it this way.