Rise of Cerberus (LDO v2.4 350mm build)

[WhiteWulfe]

Got the living room rearranged so there's a spot for it, and UPS says the kit will be delivered tomorrow alongside other goodies, so why not get the thread rolling. So yup, this is going to be my second 3d printer ever, with the Trident having been the first. I don't really plan on doing all that many mods during the build let alone after. It's a good design, has many things already taken into consideration, and I look at my printers more like tools that require occasional maintenance and calibration as opposed to something to constantly tinker or fiddle with.

So what colours am I planning on going with? Matter3D's Matte Black ABS with Matte Orange ABS accents is what I'm going with, mainly because they're colours I rather like, and also because they make an orange I rather like the look of. Sparta3D's Bright Orange is a lovely sparkle ABS+, and Polymaker ABS is absolutely wonderful to work with, but both of them are just too yellow for my taste. A quick glance of things indicates these should work fairly well with the Chaotic Lab CNC parts that I won during a holiday giveaway.

What mods are we looking at, anyways?
- Nevermore
- Bed fans
- Lightweight Labware Kinematic Mount
- Chaotic Lab CNC parts kit
- Klicky PCB (eventually)
- Stealthburner 2 piece PCB
- VEFACH
- chamber thermistor
- Sexbolt (if needed, have one lying around anyways)
- purge bucket of some sort (seems like a nice quality of life thing, since cleaning scraps off the bottom of a v2.4 isn't as easy as a Trident)
- Sturdy handles (I like the ones my Trident has)

Might be one or two more that I forgot about putting into the list like panel clips or different hinges for the doors



^The Chaotic Lab CNC parts kit. Comes with Rev 1 feet and AB idlers, but thankfully the z motor mounts are compatible with Rev 2 feet, which I prefer the look of. Hopefully at some point a Rev 2 AB idler update will be offered. I've had a few ask my thoughts on these parts, and in all honesty, I don't know what to say. I like them, they look nice, and I hope I'll be able to have an actual opinion once I've started assembling various things.


^Quick test of how the chosen ABS colours work with the red anodizing. I'm rather certain they'll work together, doubly so because they generally won't be next to each other anyways.

Normally there'd be a pic of printed parts ready to go for the build posted here, but Foxyfluff had a wire break, but the replacement parts are in the same shipment as the LDO kit, so once I get the Trident back up and running it'll be printing parts for the build as I assemble things. Thankfully there's a decent amount of steps to do before I get to where I'll need printed parts, thanks to the CNC bits.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

To answer a few questions I know I might get...

Why the 350 over a 300?
A combination of things. Tongue in cheek answer is to be able to print much longer articulated dragons, but it's also for things like cosplay props and larger items in general. For example, a 1/6-1/4 scale Heavy Gear Kodiak (with VHAC instead of particle cannon), or a decent sized Zaku II (like several feet tall as "decent"). This also applies as to why I wound up going with a 350 over the originally planned 250, doubly so because hubby and I figured it would be easier to squeeze in a 350mm v2.4 and call it ours instead of building a 350mm for him, and a 250mm for me. That and, y'know, LDO doesn't make a 250 v2.4 kit.


Why the LDO kit over Formbot?
Numerous reasons come to mind, with the biggest being how for over a year I've said I wish an LDO Trident kit had been available when I built Foxyfluff (VT.679), as well as general curiosity about how the build process will be like with an LDO kit. Some would write it as putting my money where my mouth is, and that is indeed correct. Other reasons are local vendors had the kit in stock (1-2 business days beats Formbot sending it anywhere from two days after you order to six weeks later), so it's a lot easier to book vacation time around that, and the fact that the "savings" a Formbot kit has aren't really there with my desired criteria.

To expand on the "they don't meat my criteria" as an actual savings, it's about a $730 CAD give or take price difference between the two, assuming $50 CAD for taxes and duty as the courier brings it in. However, Formbot's panels are known for warping and the v2 has the heater close to the bottom panel all the time, and their panels are thinner than spec, so there's $200 CAD spent on Mandala Roseworks panels in order to remove this as an issue. They also provide stainless steel fasteners and I prefer black, which doesn't detract from my colour scheme, so there's another $125 CAD. My chosen vendor also includes a Bigtree Tech CB1 with the kits (a different provider in Canada includes Raspberry Pi's in their kits, but they were out of stock at the time), so there's another $95 CAD using a method of shipping that uses a reliable courier that delivers in a reasonable amount of time (DHL Express in this case, instead of Uni Uni / Uni Express), or even more if I were to try and source an actual Raspberry Pi... Factor in another $25 CAD for the included toolhead PCB and input shaper kit, and suddenly that $730 CAD difference becomes $285 CAD. I had to replace the x and y rails on my Trident after only a few hundred hours (and plan to replace the z rails too), and I don't like what Formbot calls a harness when in reality it's just pre-cut and terminated wires. Extras like the Klicky, Nevermore, and LED lighting I'm not counting in that total because I'd either replace them with the PCB version (Klicky), pull things from spare parts (Nevermore), or probably not use (LED lights). I didn't factor rails into the equation because I'll see how things go, and either way would replace defective ones with Honey Badger rails from Fabreeko, and if it is defective, LDO will get it replaced.

One huge thing for me though, is the quality of life with how things are packaged. Instead of being put loose into pockets (like the giant pocket on the top layer a Formbot kit has), or placed wherever it worked for them, like components are packaged together, which makes them so much easier to not only grab as you're building, but also to inventory. Thought and care is shown throughout their kits, from what I've seen in build videos others have done (such as Steve Builds). They also have orange or space grey as options for the extrusions, which can moderately sway my decisions too, even thoughI went with black ones to match the Trident. There's also the fact they maintain a rather active presence in the Discord, as well as here on the forums, and if there's a problem, they get it sorted out. I've heard Formbot does better these days, but when I contacted them about the problems I had with missing items in my kit (that their listing specifically said would be included), they didn't really care, or even offer any kind of resolution.

In short, I was not impressed with how Formbot handled customer care. Is this a bias from working in that field for decades? Potentially, but it also sucks as a customer to go "hey, I've done inventory, and this thing that's part of the bill of materials is missing" and they just reply back with the equivalent of "and, what of it?" I also wasn't exactly impressed with having to ask my boss for a short notice day off because they REFUSE to let you have things held at a pickup point, it MUST be shipped to your address, and I'm not going to make my UPS driver haul a big heavy box only to find out that I'm not there. I'm a delivery driver, I hate wasting my time on such things, so I don't do it to others if their company gives me the option to do such.

Also this kit came with the 12864 display, which is something I prefer, at least right now. It matches my Trident, and it displays information. Means I don't have to clean fingerprints off of it every week or so too. I see the value and reasoning behind the touch screen displays, but I'd rather not have to worry about yet another device that decides it doesn't like my fingers!


Why a Voron 2 when you're more than happy with the Trident?
It's a few things, but the biggest is I originally was looking at the v2.4 before the Trident was released, and when Trident was released, my needs at the time were perfectly fine with having "just" 250mm of height to work with. With some of the projects I want to do over the next year or two, I really would like to be able to have that extra height, width, and depth to work with. Sure it's "only" an extra 70-80mm, but it's still a noticeable amount. Also, the flying gantry is sexy, and I intended on building both anyways. Technically I could have gone with the 300 cube Trident, but first and foremost 3dLabTech was sold out of that model, and secondly it's only a 300x300 build plate, so I wouldn't be able to print those larger dragons for hubby, or the larger parts I'm hoping to print.

Also, that whole N-1 thing. Two printers are better than one, after all


Why "Cerberus", and why "Foxyfluff" for the Trident?
Because after numerous names, Cerberus was the one hubby and I could agree on that we both liked. We had a few goofy names that came up, but none of them really passed the "we still like it 24 hours later" test. That and Tirrel/TheZlorf/Cerberus was one of the animators I absolutely loved "back in the day" when flash animation reigned supreme. Rockoons 2 is probably my favourite animation that they've done.

As for why Foxyfluff for the Trident? It was my first printer, the one and only printer I had, and foxyfluffs are everything, so it just felt right. Google that last bit at your own risk, has moderate adult humour in the animation. Yes, it's an internet thing.

Will I base all of my naming off of internet memes or culture? Probably not, those just seemed fitting.


Any intention of running CANbus?
It's something I may look into in the future, but for now, I'm more than happy with the 14 pin harness and 2 piece Hartk Stealthburner PCB. My parts have the stuff for doing such though, so I suspect it may happen at some point, doubly so because I want to get some Lightweight Labware backers with a 60 or 70 colour anodize at some point, and removal of the x and y chains means they'd be showcased rather nicely. Plus I could then get some deliciously orange or purple MDPC-X cable sleeving for the wires... Additionally, I hadn't really even started contemplating it as a possibility until fairly recently, and I don't like waiting on parts to arrive, doubly so when I already have things here ready to roll, or coming in early this week.


Why the CNC parts?
I won them, so it means I didn't have to pay the $400ish USD for them, and I did like them. Just didn't want to pay that kind of price, since once you factor in shipping that's somewhere in the region of $600 CAD, or gaining on the cost of a v0.2s1 kit.


Since you have their CNC parts, any plans to go with their lightweight carbon fiber gantry as well?
Probably not, unless there's a significant performance boost, they're reasonably priced, and Fabreeko carries the full set. Especially that last point, I really really REALLY don't like it when non-traditional couriers/delivery companies are used, as so many problems crop up if you live in an apartment, or work weekdays. Who in their right mind attempts delivery at 22:35?!?!?!!? Thankfully I stayed up late that night.


Weren't you going to build a Salad Fork or Micron Plus/180 first?
Yup, but winning CNC parts for a v2.4 kind of made me go "welp, guess I'm building a v2.4 next" because I don't like having things lie around for long periods of time waiting for something to be done with them. Those of you in the back who know about my gunpla and mini painting backlogs shelves of inspiration can hush, those will actually be seen to, and are slowly being worked on!

 

[NoGuru]

Cool, I will sub to watch the build. Since you are contemplating CAN bus, you could wait for a wire to break in the Chains. Took my printer just over a year for it to happen, that is when I switched to CAN bus. That might give it a little more time to mature as well, although I think a lot have made the switch already.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

Cool, I will sub to watch the build. Since you are contemplating CAN bus, you could wait for a wire to break in the Chains. Took my printer just over a year for it to happen, that is when I switched to CAN bus. That might give it a little more time to mature as well, although I think a lot have made the switch already.

That's more than likely the path I'll wind up going, as it will give me time to get everything sorted out, and I won't have to worry too too much about what shipment methods to use (although I'm fairly certain I'll use EMS or standard couriers for products, because that's just how I am).

 

[WhiteWulfe]

Reinforcements have arrived. Kit came in yesterday, but I got maybe four and a half hours of sleep yesterday because I wanted to be up in time for courier hours, and for once, UPS actually did indeed deliver inside the window tracking said they would.


Kit's in, and everything's inventoried. It was rather enjoyable to inventory, first and foremost with an actual physical copy of the parts list, and secondly, a nice breakdown on the bags themselves. No pics of the second box, because by comparison that's fairly boring, but it's all there. Will get started on the frame tonight, assuming I don't get distracted with (insert one of the games I'm playing here, like No Man's Sky).

 

[brendanm720]

That and, y'know, LDO doesn't make a 250 v2.4 kit.

They don't? Huh. I didn't even look -- I self-sourced over the course of a year (to spread out costs).

Any intention of running CANbus?
It's something I may look into in the future, but for now, I'm more than happy with the 14 pin harness and 2 piece Hartk Stealthburner PCB. My parts have the stuff for doing such though, so I suspect it may happen at some point, doubly so because I want to get some Lightweight Labware backers with a 60 or 70 colour anodize at some point, and removal of the x and y chains means they'd be showcased rather nicely. Plus I could then get some deliciously orange or purple MDPC-X cable sleeving for the wires... Additionally, I hadn't really even started contemplating it as a possibility until fairly recently, and I don't like waiting on parts to arrive, doubly so when I already have things here ready to roll, or coming in early this week.

Honestly, if you've got a premade harness in that kit, use it. CANBUS works pretty well, and I've had good results, but it's another MCU to keep track of and another point of failure (as I found out the hard way). But when it works, it's super great. If it were me, I'd use the harness and switch to Can (or another umbilical mod) when your wires break in the chains.

Though, I do like how clean the gantry looks without the drag chains. Just saying.

Why the CNC parts?
I won them, so it means I didn't have to pay the $400ish USD for them, and I did like them. Just didn't want to pay that kind of price, since once you factor in shipping that's somewhere in the region of $600 CAD, or gaining on the cost of a v0.2s1 kit.

They certainly look nice. I'm not sure I'd pay for them either, but if I had won them, I'd certainly use them.

Weren't you going to build a Salad Fork or Micron Plus/180 first?
Yup, but winning CNC parts for a v2.4 kind of made me go "welp, guess I'm building a v2.4 next" because I don't like having things lie around for long periods of time waiting for something to be done with them. Those of you in the back who know about my gunpla and mini painting backlogs shelves of inspiration can hush, those will actually be seen to, and are slowly being worked on!

I understand that. I've got a Red LDO 1.8 frame hanging out (I was going to use it for the Trident, and then at the last minute decided I wanted to go with space gray). So I have that red frame hanging out. I was thinking about building a Salad Fork myself (in a green motif) as a second printer (because of n-1) but I'm kind of thinking that maybe my next one will be an enclosed Legacy... but with 3 Lead Screws for fully automatic bed tramming. I hate manually adjusting the bed tram. I've actually been mulling over colors, and I'm thinking a silver-gray for accent and black for primary would look good with that red frame.

Or, Maybe I'll "garage sale" the red frame and do a printer for ants.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

They don't? Huh. I didn't even look -- I self-sourced over the course of a year (to spread out costs).

Indeed. I recall it being mentioned as something along the lines of there being a decent amount more 300's and 350's for the v2 being built, as well as wanting to not have too too many kits. Trident has the 250 and 300 cube, while the v2.4 gets the 300 and 350. LDO does make frame kits for the 250mm v2, they just don't offer a full kit. I personally wish they would, as do a few others I'd suspect, but I can either self-source such, or build a Micron Plus/180. I'll see where my needs are for a smaller printer once I have the money for such, as well as a place figured out as to where it would even go.

Honestly, if you've got a premade harness in that kit, use it. CANBUS works pretty well, and I've had good results, but it's another MCU to keep track of and another point of failure (as I found out the hard way). But when it works, it's super great. If it were me, I'd use the harness and switch to Can (or another umbilical mod) when your wires break in the chains.

Though, I do like how clean the gantry looks without the drag chains. Just saying.

I agree about the harness. Since I already have such, I can easily just keep the ball rolling with what I have on hand, and then if I decide to change things up at a later date, such as when I'm doing a complete overhaul or deep maintenance of the printer I can always do it then. My core goal with my printers is reliable workhorses, and so if Canbus doesn't happen the world isn't going to end, doubly so because it means that at least on paper, there's less troubleshooting, maintenance, and coding work involved.

I definitely agree regarding the gantry being wonderfully clean without the drag chains, but I'll also say chains are one reason why I also like the Voron designs in general. Or, in other words, I honestly can't decide which look I prefer.

They certainly look nice. I'm not sure I'd pay for them either, but if I had won them, I'd certainly use them.

I'm sure I'll form more of an opinion as I work with them, but I do know when I first saw them my core thoughts were "oooh, that's neat, ouch that price" but I also knew that there's raw material cost, machining time, and then anodizing on top of that, and those prices do add up fairly quick, especially machining time. If all they do is make it easier to set things up, that's good enough for me, same with looking good, but if they bring stiffness benefits to the table I'm almost more than happy with such.

I understand that. I've got a Red LDO 1.8 frame hanging out (I was going to use it for the Trident, and then at the last minute decided I wanted to go with space gray). So I have that red frame hanging out. I was thinking about building a Salad Fork myself (in a green motif) as a second printer (because of n-1) but I'm kind of thinking that maybe my next one will be an enclosed Legacy... but with 3 Lead Screws for fully automatic bed tramming. I hate manually adjusting the bed tram. I've actually been mulling over colors, and I'm thinking a silver-gray for accent and black for primary would look good with that red frame.

Or, Maybe I'll "garage sale" the red frame and do a printer for ants.

It's also part of the reason why as much as I'd love to bump the Trident up to LDO's 300 cube specs, I probably won't. I'd wind up with a spare frame, motors, and whatnot, and at that point then it's a case of well, might as well build another printer. Not that I'd mind another Trident, but still. Part of the reason I try not to have too too many spare things is that there's only so much room in my place due to it being a one bedroom apartment that somehow we find more room every year in to do this or that, but the other part of it is I'm tired of trying to sort through older things in the bedroom to try and clear up space. Yup, bedroom closet is stuffed full of various things, because of ye olde out of sight out of mind kind of thing, but also because it was a convenient place to get it out of the way.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

So, progress begins! First up is the frame, not only assembled but all nice and squared up on all six sides but we also have the bed mounts in place. Got t-nuts and screws ready for the next step, which brings about...


Rails have had their shipping oil cleaned out with isopropyl. After supper I'll get some grease in there, or as the sales guy at Grainger liked to call it - Satan's Grease! (Because it came to $6.66 CAD when I bought a tube of Mobil EP2)

Definitely looking forward to getting some rails on the frame and starting the z motor assemblies, as I'm rather curious as to how those will look all assembled!

 

[brendanm720]

I agree about the harness. Since I already have such, I can easily just keep the ball rolling with what I have on hand, and then if I decide to change things up at a later date, such as when I'm doing a complete overhaul or deep maintenance of the printer I can always do it then.

Exactly.

My core goal with my printers is reliable workhorses, and so if Canbus doesn't happen the world isn't going to end, doubly so because it means that at least on paper, there's less troubleshooting, maintenance, and coding work involved.

There's not really any coding involved, but there is a bit more troubleshooting. As far as maintenance goes, the CANBUS boards work like any other MCU, so whenever there's a klipper update, you'll do 2 Controllers instead of 1. I built my Trident from scratch with CAN, and it's printing a Voron cube right now. We'll see how things go as far as reliability goes.

It's also part of the reason why as much as I'd love to bump the Trident up to LDO's 300 cube specs, I probably won't.

I'm not changing out anything, frame-wise on this Trident. it's just too much work to unbuild the printer and then put it back together. I told my wife if she wants anything bigger than 250^3, then I need to build another printer.

I'd wind up with a spare frame, motors, and whatnot, and at that point then it's a case of well, might as well build another printer.

Yep. You could probably order just the vertical extrusions (instead of a whole frame), Motors, and rails, but you'd still have those extras laying around begging you to do something with them.

Not that I'd mind another Trident, but still. Part of the reason I try not to have too too many spare things is that there's only so much room in my place due to it being a one bedroom apartment that somehow we find more room every year in to do this or that, but the other part of it is I'm tired of trying to sort through older things in the bedroom to try and clear up space. Yup, bedroom closet is stuffed full of various things, because of ye olde out of sight out of mind kind of thing, but also because it was a convenient place to get it out of the way.

Mine is going to live out in the garage because of space constraints. I could put this guy somewhere else in the house, but I have kids and they touch things. They are usually pretty good about not touching the printer, but they don't play in the garage, and they do in the rest of the house. The chance of the Trident being collateral damage is much lower.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

There's not really any coding involved, but there is a bit more troubleshooting. As far as maintenance goes, the CANBUS boards work like any other MCU, so whenever there's a klipper update, you'll do 2 Controllers instead of 1. I built my Trident from scratch with CAN, and it's printing a Voron cube right now. We'll see how things go as far as reliability goes.

Definitely good to know. It's something I'll keep in mind for the future, but I'm definitely not in any particular kind of rush to get my paws on it.

I'm not changing out anything, frame-wise on this Trident. it's just too much work to unbuild the printer and then put it back together. I told my wife if she wants anything bigger than 250^3, then I need to build another printer.


Yep. You could probably order just the vertical extrusions (instead of a whole frame), Motors, and rails, but you'd still have those extras laying around begging you to do something with them.

Yeah, in the end, unless there's something seriously wrong with the frame I have on my Trident it's going to stay as is. Besides, while a second Trident would be lovely, I also kind of want to try my paw at some of the smaller printers out there (even if, in the end, it winds up being a 250mm printer. Still debating about a variety of things, truth be told).

Mine is going to live out in the garage because of space constraints. I could put this guy somewhere else in the house, but I have kids and they touch things. They are usually pretty good about not touching the printer, but they don't play in the garage, and they do in the rest of the house. The chance of the Trident being collateral damage is much lower.

We have living room or bedroom, so living room is where most of the tech goes, especially tech with blinking lights. Thankfully, the only small children I have to deal with are my parents, specifically my mother who doesn't understand the concept of "don't touch the things". I also don't really have guests over anymore, mainly due to annoying neighbours, which kinda sucks, because I miss having company over.

~~~
Would post pics tonight, but it's been a long day of this and that, including getting z rails installed, and plenty of swearing around building the z motors and getting them mounted, so I'll try to remember to take pics tomorrow morning. Needless to say, I have mixed opinions on the CNC parts, since one bearing had to be pressed in (I wish I was kidding, tolerances were just too tight for pretty much all the bearings I had), and the way the motor tension brackets are designed it's rather easy for things to skew ever so slightly, so you spend you an hour trying to figure out why the bloody things have the belts go from centered to rubbing flanges rather firmly in short order. Once I caught on that it shifts ever so slightly, I was able to remedy such and get it so all four don't have a case of wandering belts, so I was rather happy... And then kept that ball rolling with getting the z idlers installed, as well as building the A and B idlers and motor mounts.

Also had to use M5x14 machine screws to mount the v2r2 feet versus the M5x16 that the core instructions state, because the screws poked out and were a tad too close for comfort to the 80T wheels and 188 tooth belts...

Bit of a pity that the idlers will require me to draw in my own eyebrows though, if I want eyedlers...

 

[WhiteWulfe]

So, ignoring the massive amount of swearing that was sorting out the tensioning system causing the stepper motor to be off angle ever so slightly... Whereabouts are we with Cerberus?


We're definitely getting there. Linear rails for the gantry are installed, idlers (sadly without eyebrows) are in, and we've got a few bits of the gantry assembled as well.


Accent piece isn't held in place by anything, those machine screws are just there for me to be able to determine thoughts, and yup, I like those black fasteners indeed. Obviously once I get to this point I'll have heatsets in the skirts that the hardware can actually catch on. I'd consider swapping from the Matter3D Matte Black ABS to Polymaker, but it's hard to find stock of that in Canada right now (word is hopefully April the drought will die off), but I also have Matter3D in stock, and I still like the overall colour, so kind of want to just stick with it.


These were an absolute joy to put together, although one has to be careful of one of the M3x28 machine screws and tightening it too much, as it will cause the motor to lift off the plates somewhat. Can still screw it in snug, just need to back it off a tiny bit so it doesn't cause serious issue.


Despite them being r1 idlers, I rather like the way they approached this. First, the machine screw is captive, so there's no ugly washer between it and the idler body. Second is that these do slide apart, so you can get your bearing stack in there, and it was significantly easier to put together than the ones for my Trident. Hopefully that same ease extends to getting the belts through them!


Close up of the z idlers. The red is angled in ever so slightly, and I'm not going to lie, it's rather tempting to paint in some eyebrows for these, because, well, Voron tradition or something.

All I know is that I really should get Foxyfluff (the Trident) back up and running, as I'm fairly certain I'm going to need some printed parts soon, because there's noticeably fewer left in the Chaotic Lab box...

 

[WhiteWulfe]

Cerberus hasn't seen any work for a few days, mainly because I've been trying to hunt something down on Foxyfluff, and at this point I'm probably going to just rip out the old harness, and swap in the new one... Which will require a moderate amount of rewiring of the Trident, but I suspect I'll manage to make it all work out. Just means time working on the printer is spent on the Trident, since I'll need those printed parts at some point to continue on past the v2's gantry. Suspect I won't be getting the gantry hung this weekend, but I'm perfectly fine with that.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

There's been a lot of real life happening, but thankfully things seem to slowing down for the time being, and Foxyfluff lives again, which means....

I now have all the required parts printed for Cerberus. From my notes, it looks like I just need to print some skirts, Nevermore v6, VEFACH, and of course the rear exhaust housing and purge bucket thingy. Looking forward to resuming work on Cerberus, boy do I miss working on this!

 

[claudermilk]

So...where do the calidragons mount?

 

[WhiteWulfe]

So...where do the calidragons mount?

I use them (as well as Voron cubes and HexTech "Industrial Fluidworks" or "City Sprawl") as plate filler in order to increase layer times, so things like the last half of the Clockwork 2 cable door don't become a stringy mess. I think I was on autopilot and threw those in the box while cleaning the plate off

EDIT: Alternate answer - they my build support crew, they help everywhere!

 

[NoGuru]

I was wondering where you were with this project. Glad to see it resume!

 

[Outsider]

That pic of pristine ABS parts makes me want to reprint a lot of mine. Work's Prusa MK3 (enclosed) did a crap job by comparison! Those aluminium parts look tasty too.
Love the colour scheme.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

I was wondering where you were with this project. Glad to see it resume!

Me too, I've missed working on the printer. Just so many things have happened over the past few months, but thankfully a good portion of it all is sorted out now, more or less. Or at least not super worrying anymore.

That pic of pristine ABS parts makes me want to reprint a lot of mine. Work's Prusa MK3 (enclosed) did a crap job by comparison! Those aluminium parts look tasty too.
Love the colour scheme.

Not sure I'd call them pristine, but they're good enough. JPEG compression plus smaller photos conceal many things! ~_^


So, first up we have the gantry built, with complimentary Battlemaster for scale. Well, it was there to bug a friend anyways, the ruler is more a "for scale" thing around here!


Managed to get the gantry temporarily hung with z-locks. Definitely a case of you'll want to figure out HOW you're going to support your gantry in the air and get z-locks in if you're doing it yourself, doubly so with the somewhat unwieldly size for the 350mm build. Kind of annoyed that Chaotic Labs only has a three hole riser for the chains and not a two hole, but I'll work something out, even if it's trim down a 16mm bolt so I can have a two-hole drag chain riser thingy...

Chaotic Lab's instructions are rather vague too on several things, like how tight or how far to twist those knurled knobs holding the gantry to the z rails....

 

[Outsider]

Managed to get the gantry temporarily hung with z-locks. Definitely a case of you'll want to figure out HOW you're going to support your gantry in the air and get z-locks in if you're doing it yourself, doubly so with the somewhat unwieldly size for the 350mm build.

Z-locks! Everyday is a school day. Thank you.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

Z-locks! Everyday is a school day. Thank you.

Indeed, they're super handy (if you look at their direction before putting them in, since they're directional)!

VoronUsers/printer_mods/tallman5/z-locks at master · VoronDesign/VoronUsers

Voron Community mods, slicer profiles and firmware configurations. - VoronDesign/VoronUsers

github.com

I wound up using the 150mm ones, like suggested on the Github.