Self sourced 2.4 R2. My first 3D printer ever

[lotech]

Found a post on discord that said,
"but as to your actual problem, I think telsler is right. anywhere you have spaces BEFORE a [ ] section, I think that is trouble
so go through, and all section headers, aka stuff like [gcode_macro PAUSE]. make sure the [ is the first character on that line
I had a space in front of the [gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE] I just pasted in to fix the previous error message.
Got rid of that space and I'm back to the same error message: Existing command 'BED_MESH_CALIBRATE' not found in gcode_macro rename

Pumped that into discord search and found out I didn't have a [BedMesh] in my printer.cfg.
Found one here: https://docs.vorondesign.com/tuning/secondary_printer_tuning.html

I do have some/3 bell warnings about moonraker. But maybe those can wait.
Onward toward my next puzzle.

After all the wiring is done and you hit the ON switch,
Are the fans on the stealthburner supposed to start running?

 

[lotech]

Unplugged the stealthburner fans and they just kept going, ha.
OK, I have the hartk 2-piece board and apparently the ground wire is supposed to go to S on both the fans not the g. DOH!

https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/vmx4m9/psa_hartk1213_stealthburner_2piece_pcb

OK, got it so the fans don't come on when I turn on the switch.

Next: The bed heats up right but the probe heater has a problem.

 

[lotech]

I used pin PA1, the bolt on the end that is normally used for the bed heater, for the hot end heater.
I guess all the kids are doing it.
Since the bed heater is controlled by an SCR that doesn't draw much, it's connected to HE0.
The hot end should draw more and PA1 is built to handle more amps.
The reason it didn't work, is because I had the hot end connected to the 24 volt bolt.
Apparently the hot end is supplied power at all times and is controlled by the negative wires.
Even though it's controlled by the negative post I still have it designated as PA1 in printed.cfg, not BED-P.
And it's working great now.

Next, things are going to start moving. Maybe in the right direction, if I wired the steppers properly.

 

[lotech]

Running through the BUZZ command.
If the stepper motor oscillates in an incorrect direction, then it generally indicates that the “dir_pin” for the axis needs to be inverted. This is done by adding a ‘!’ to the “dir_pin” in the printer config file.
That means put the ! in front of the pin like this: dir_pin: !PF12 not in front of the whole line.
So I must have wired them wrong, glad there is an easy fix instead of having to depin and swap wires.
I am wonder what this means:
The STEPPER_BUZZ command will cause the given stepper to move one millimeter in a positive direction and then it will return to its starting position.
What is a "positive direction"? I took it to mean away from the outer edge of the machine.
So I had to invert Y but not X.

Seemed like it was moving more than 1mm so I changed rotation distance from 40 to 30 in X and Y
Well in a world where up is down and right is forward,.. it would be moving great, ha.

 

[lotech]

I bought it back into the world where up is up and right is not forward.
Next my probe is always triggered so I can't move the gantry down.
Doesn't change if I push the klicky probe switch or not. Even though the blue klicky light goes out when I push the switch upward.
Probably another wiring problem.

 

[lotech]

Found this thread on here and with octopus V1.1 hartK 2-piece board the klicky is supposed to be plugged into J34 with ^PG15 pin in printer.cfg. instead of the J40/PB7 plug.
The ^ enables the pullup resistor.
The probe trigger works now.