Tap users - what is your startup sequence on your V2 (or Trident I suppose)?

[Yonkiman]

Here's mine:

1. Set bed to desired temperature.
2. Once temp has been reached, plus 15-20 minute soak time, do a G28 and G32. (I generally don't do a bed mesh because my bed is flat enough.)
3. Set hot end to desired temperature.
4. Do a nozzle height check with a piece of paper and babystep as necessary to dial in height. (I know this shouldn't be necessary, but occasionally there's been an error on the order of 0.5mm that would have gouged the build plate, so I don't mind taking the extra minute or so for this.)
5. Start the print.

I'm curious how this compares to other people's procedure. I'd love for it to be more automated, but I'm not sure what I could change. Can't Tap the build plate with the nozzle at temp...

 

[StevenB]

Personally.
I use "A better print start macro" and simply slice the stl, upload and print, then walk away.
Let the printer handle everything.

 

[claudermilk]

I use the preheat settings in Fluidd/Mainsail. All have nozzle set to 150, then bed to the material needs. I let it heat soak for about 5-10 minutes (it's a 250). Then I hit print and the printer takes care of the rest. Home if needed, bed level, KAMP adaptive mesh, then smart park & final nozzle heat. I'll make sure the first layer is going down well, then leave it to the work.

 

[Yonkiman]

Thanks. So neither of you have any nozzle height errors at any bed/hot end temp?

 

[claudermilk]

No, not really.

 

[StevenB]

No. Kinda one of the points of tap. Set the z offset once and forget about it l.

 

[5twenty]

It is the point, but I have to micro adjust my z depending on material. I guess I could automate it, but it seems to fluctuate. But not so much that I care enough to chase that unicorn. Maybe when I put TAP on my other 2.4?

 

[Upperbottom]

The most important thing about Tap i found, is that the nozzle is REALLY clean.
Some filaments won't be pliable enough at 150 degrees to "flatten" when squished to the bed.

So here is my (somewhat manual startup)
Preface: My macro retracts the filament by about 18 mm after each print, to reduce snot and adjust the KAMP macro accordingly.

- set bed temp to desired temp
- While waiting for heat: heat nozzle to print temp, remove any snot "brass-brush-style", then lower to 150* degrees.
- When chamber temperature and bed temperature are reached: Send it!
- For safety: check the first layer and adjust with microstepping, if needed
- If you liked your first layer: save config

I used this a couple of times and last few prints haven't needed any adjustments to the first layer

I probably could make this easier with an auto-brush... but where is the fun in that

*or your set homing temp

 

[5twenty]

The most important thing about Tap i found, is that the nozzle is REALLY clean.

This is very true. But it is true regardless, as you don't want it hitting your (well my) sexbolt either.

The hard thing for me is getting a routine dialed in to scrub the brush hot, retract a bit, cool, scrub, the home/qgl.

I'm not even close to getting it dialed in yet, but that's the fun of this hobby; continually tuning!

I enjoy theorycrafting though, and will one day get the routine dialed in to my liking. Until the....chasing unicorns it is.