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Question Tap vs Klicky - thermal expansion of nozzle for probing vs printing... confused


Printer Model
Siboor 350 Voron 2.4 R2 - Build in Progress
Hi all... first post here.

I've decided to take the plunge and ordered the Siboor 350 kit. The recent upgrade comes with Tap as standard, which (in principal) seems excellent as i like the idea of the probe being the nozzle.

However... i am somewhat perplexed about the workflow for levelling where the thermal melting limit of the build plate means one would be limited to 150oC for probing, and then needing to heat up to the ABS (or other) printing temperature.

the question... is there any issue with this? is there any significant thermal expansion in the 100oC change between probe and printing???

Klicky seems that it would resolve this problem, but introduces potential errors related to probe vs nozzle location and Z offset. I am intending on printing with a 0.6mm nozzle but like the idea of super simple swaps without needing to faff around with resetting offsets etc.

I've been bed-slinging printing for years, but this will be my first CoreXY.... i really really don't like inductive probes as I've had many many issues with them on various cartesian printers. I did actually get a Klicky pcb kit too so i could switch over.

I did search but didn't get a satisfactory answer... thanks in advance for your council
I have a 2.4 350 with TAP.

In practice whatever thermal expansion there is doesn't seam to matter.

Klipper assumes a cold bed and head for initial Z adjustment. (the paper test). What this does is tell klipper the distance from the nozzle to the distance the nozzle needs to travel for the TAP opto sensor to trip.

Then the basic process would be to do a 30 minute heat soak at 100*C bed temp and the nozzle at 150*C, then do a first layer squish test with your chosen filament.

The variation is adjusted out for the 1st layer squish. So it doesn't really matter if the head grows by 0.01mm as my squish Z adjustment compensates for that growth.

For ABS I like a 50*C chamber temp, which takes about 30-40 minutes to achieve. Whatever you do, you'll want to come as practically close to your real print conditions for your Z adjustment. (note than the nozzle can't be hotter than 150*C when it contacts a PEI bed.)
I generally do the probe calibrate macro once, then adjust it manually in the config file after a couple test prints to get a first layer I'm happy with. I'm horrible with anything analog (a 'little' friction on the paper, 'barely' touching something, etc), so if anything I pick a less squishy base setting and then make it squishier until I like it and save it in the config file that says not to change it.