Trident 300 Build

[themasterofunlocking]

Hey all. I am Jordan. I am a head chef and kitchen manager.

I got into 3d printing right before the pandemic hit with a FlashForge Adventurer 3. I wanted more out of my printer so I decided to upgrade to what all the mainstream peeps were into: the Ender 3. I learned a lot about 3d printing, and of course the struggles that come along with cheap, neglected printers. Then around sometime in 2021 I discovered voron design.

Initially I was intrigued by the 2.4. I wanted to build one so bad, but it was a bit out of my budget. I did a little bit of further digging and found the Voron v0.1 model. Done! That's the one I'm going to build. I printed the pieces on my ender 3, open air with abs and...Fuck. This ender 3 fucking sucks for this without an enclosure, huh? 3 attempts, and two or three spools of filament later I had my parts for my 0.1. I waited about 8 months, bought a kit and put it together and fell in love even more with this little machine.

That's when I realized, as we all do at some point, I need BIGGER. I need BETTER. I NEED TRIDENT.

So here we go! It's nice to virtually meet you.

This time around I chose to build a 300x300 kit by Fysetc.

Primary Colors:
Black - Hatchbox ABS
Black - Polymaker ABS
Secondary Colors:
Light Blue - Polymaker ABS [Hex Code: #5bc2e7]

Vendor: Fysetc 300x300 Trident Kit

Day 1:

Package Arrived at my brother's house. I got off work late and took a trip to pick it up. Sorted through all the parts to ensure any quality issues, missing parts, or extras. Spent a little bit of time organizing extrusion sizes and getting a space clear for the build. Went to sleep.


A lot of stuff to sort through.

Day 2:

I started to assemble components. (i.e. Motor assemblies, hotend parts, heatsets, etc.





It wasn't until I was putting pieces together for the hotend I noticed I didn't do a very good job printing this. I am going to put it together, and reprint a new fan shroud once finished.


Getting the components prepped.


The clockwork 1 extruder is truly a sight to behold.

Day 3

This is when I was going to assemble the front idlers. This is where I ran into my first real snag. The bearings and/or the m5x40 shcs weren't sized correctly and I couldn't get the bearings to fit into these particular set of m5 screws. I did a sanity check with all other applicable m5 screws to my disposal and they fit ALL of them but these particular m5 shcs's.


They won't fit


The bearings


The m5x40 SHCS in question. None of them would fit the bearings.

No worries, I guess. I ordered some new m5x40 shcs and they'll be arriving on saturday. Hopefully I'll be able to get the idlers finished!

Day 4:

I decided to move on from component prep and started to assemble the printer. I got much of the frame finished, the z-motors installed and some various components. I didn't run into any issues here, and everything went smoothly. The only thing I skipped over was installing the idlers. I'll do that once I can finish them due to the above issue.


Getting the frame and some various things prepared!


and here is where we are at! The frame for the bed isn't actually on or anything yet. I just set it there to get an idea of the look! Things are coming together smoothly from here!

And that's where I've left off so far! It's starting to look like a printer!

I have some titanium backers from DFH on the way. Going to get those installed for extra "security." But to be honest, I'm doing it because it's fucking cool.

To be continued!

 

[NoGuru]

Hey, looks like its coming along nicely. I'll be looking for updates!

 

[themasterofunlocking]

Hey all. Been a long couple days. Lot's of stuff has happened since my last post and now. My old civic blew a head gasket. No shop in town wanted to touch it. I work pretty far from home and essentially had to make a necessary car purchase. So we're back in action. I've also since completed building my Trident and have obtained my serial. VT.1123. Here's a bit of an update:

I'll start by saying I have received some new M5 screws for the idlers. They work perfectly.


After I got the idlers installed, I started working on the x-carriage. I don't think I took any photo's of installing the carriage idlers. However, I did snap a few photos as I was installing Afterburner.






The X-carriage came together. quite nicely, and getting the hotend on was a breeze. I didn't run into any issues here.



After I got the toolhead and x-carriage assembled and all together I moved onto installing the bed. I again didn't take any photos of this process, but it was super easy and simple. I got the bed installed and started to get the bottom electronics enclosure together. I got the din rails installed, the power supply line set up, the printer electronics line setup and all wired up.

Something I should note about this fysetc kit, they sent me a wiring diagram for a Voron 2.4. It took me about a minute of observing the wrong diagram wondering to myself: "why are there more motors than a trident actually has??? ...... OooOoooO!" The wiring they also sent for their pre-made wiring looms was lacking. It didn't feature enough to hook the RPi up to the included 5v sr-25-5 power supply. I guess they thought I could power the RPi off of the gpio pins, and sure I could, however what is the point in including the sr-25-5 in the kit if you don't intend for anyone to use it? Also, the pre-made wiring loom for the rpi that powers it and connects to uart was connected with a wrong connector on oneside. It look identical, but had one of the pin holes blocked and could not plug in anywhere at all on the RPi, according to their chart. I just skipped this bullshit step and went the traditional USB route.

I then continued to wire this bad boy up. I ran all the wires from the tool head to the electronics enclosure in a wiring loom to help keep it looking neat. I self sourced my own from Amazon. The stuff they included in the kit was fine, but it was easily 1/4 inch diameter. It probably would've worked with a can-bus wire or something, ( I honestly don't know.) I ran my wires an old-school primitive way, and needed a thicker wiring loom.






Once I got this far, I installed my z-endstop contraption. Inserted the shaft, and it's 5mm too long. I looked up the spec and the BOM calls for a 30mm shaft for this part, but I had received a 35mm shaft. So, my temporary solution (that'll be permanent I'm sure) was to put a screw that is almost exactly where it needs to be. I'm going to dremel down the endstop pin here once I get some more free time to do so, but for now the screw is working just fine and I've been able to work around the z-offsets.

From here I essentially continued wiring, and doing little nitty gritty detail work. Zip-tieing, re-arranging the littlest things. Just trying to get things neat. I want this to be my work horse printer that I can count on for reliable, accurate and beautiful prints.

I got the electronics finished up, and powered her on (with a little bit of fear).
Holy shit, everything works... ok time for firmware.

Kiauh makes it pretty easy. I only had one issue which was connecting the rpi to the mcu. It didn't want to detect the serial ID at first. After about an hour of some research I found that the serial ID for this spyder board was stored in a similiarly named folder but somewhere else? I don't know, I can't remember right now.. as I'm at work lol.. but Whatever it was worked.

I went with Mainsail OS and I'm, of course, running klipper.

Once I got my config setup I ran a z-tilt adjust, and holy shit. that's fucking sweeeeeeeet.
But I noticed my probe was too high up and when probing the nozzle was just touching the bed. Fortunately this tool head is super easy to work on. Like. Incredibly easy. The Probe was super easy to adjust. I come from working on the v0.1 tool head, and let me tell you something about the mini-afterburner. It's a pain in my ass. And probably yours, too.



In the above photo you can clearly see the endstop sticking out 5mm or so too much. But here is the printer before I started getting the panels together to put on. I fucking hate the wrap acrylic panels come with. Such a fucking pain to get this stuff off. At least for me, Maybe I'm being a little bitch. ^_^
And that's pretty much it.

I don't have any more photos from here, just a couple short videos I need to edit down and upload on here, which I can do at a later time. I finished this printer up and started printing right away.

It's been printing so well. Honestly, the best printer I've ever had. The layers are smooth, even, flat. Parts are not warping anymore. I'm able to achieve a chamber temp of 60ºc by just a simple heatsoak. This trident is honestly fucking amazing.
Here is a link to my Serial Request submission/approval.:

https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/comments/13jvvw8

Thanks all for sticking around and checking out this build. I'll post some more photo's and videos this week! I had a blast building this machine and It was well worth every hour, screw, and penny. Thank you to the Voron design team, and anybody who helped in general with this project. You are legends.

Thank you!

 

[themasterofunlocking]

Hey, looks like its coming along nicely. I'll be looking for updates!

Thank you so much for checking out my build! I appreciate it. Hope all is well on your end of the world.

 

[themasterofunlocking]

One more thing too add: I still have a couple things left to do with this build, as all builds are never finished!

1. Noctua Fans to replace the 60x60x20 electronics fans. They're too loud and winey for me.
2. Titanium backers from DFH have still yet to ship, I'm waiting for them to install them.
3. Voron Tap??
4. Voron Stealthburner???
5. Webcam install.

There may be some more things I'd like to accomplish, but we will get there when we get there.

I think after I finish these couple of things up I am going to consider a v0.1 rebuild into a 0.2. But I need to enjoy my printers as they are now!

Thanks again!

 

[NoGuru]

Sucks to hear your car broke down. Also, nice assortment of firearms you have there.

Builds are never done.
TAP is pretty sweet, but Beacon....oh so good.
Stealthburner is much better at cooling than Afterburner.

If you are going to print any Nylon or parts that are very strong for say, firearms, get a Dehydrator or Filament dryer. Most high-strength material HAS to be dried out before printing such as Nylon or PC and even ASA.

 

[themasterofunlocking]

Sucks to hear your car broke down. Also, nice assortment of firearms you have there.

Builds are never done.
TAP is pretty sweet, but Beacon....oh so good.
Stealthburner is much better at cooling than Afterburner.

If you are going to print any Nylon or parts that are very strong for say, firearms, get a Dehydrator or Filament dryer. Most high-strength material HAS to be dried out before printing such as Nylon or PC and even ASA.

Hey, honestly a 20 year old civic.. it was bound to happen sooner or later. No worries!
And, thanks! I have a Mk18 "clone" with a bunch of fancy attachments sitting on a Knights Armament Lower, and the other a SMOS-arms (old OEM for Noveske) receiver set with a knights arm co urx3.1! These are left and right arm respectively, Ha!

I've been seeing the beacon around on YT and various places and I was intrigued by the first time I saw it. It has honestly slipped my mind through this build process though! $80 dollars is a bit steep for a bed probe, but from the word around town I've been hearing: It might be worth it. While I built this printer stock, I do want to do what I can to make it a better printer overall.

Also, I've been considering the upgrade to stealthburner. I have been a bit hesitant though as the current afterburner tool-head has been performing great and I haven't ran into much cooling issues on my end, yet. However, with that being said... I do have the hardware to build one out on the way from DFH, as well. Maybe I'm just being lazy, lol.

I've been considering getting a dehydrator or building one out as a fun project. I have a spare ender 3 max, and a bunch of hardware I could potentially turn into something instead of letting it all go to waste. Maybe configure the old bed and heater in some type of enclosed space with some fans for convection.

 

[NoGuru]

I should say that Beacon is pretty new so know one knows how long it will last.
TAP is easy to setup and convert to and is super reliable but just heavy. But we are talking about slowing from say a 4 hour print to 4 hours and 15 minutes maybe so maybe the weight is negligible unless you chase speed. But also a TAP kit is what, $50 so what's another $20. Sorry, just trying to give you enough info to make a good decision.