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Voron 2.4 r2 350 Formbot Kit with stealthburner, revo and tap

Well.. DUH! 🤪

I get how I can QGL, calibrate z-height, pressure advance, input shaping and cooling ABS without cooling ABS... but how do I improve the most important parameter: the WAF*

:unsure:

*Wife Acceptance Factor
I got lucky and married an enabler, but our living room is also either a sanctuary or a shrine to tech, so that's probably also why I'm allowed so many printers.

I've heard printing things for them can be helpful for spousal acceptance though!
 
I've now been on my Voron journey for over a year, and it's still fun! Somwhere along the way i got my startup and shutdown script to work with orca slicer and got my heatsoak-process down (still manual, but maybe a script in the future..). Meanwhile I'm not quite happy with my vertical artefacts (tree-grain pattern) and I had to vacate my workshop temporalily so somwhere IN_A_NICE_BOX_IN_A_GOOD_PLACE (TM) is my acceleration sensor therefore I'm currently running without input shaper and ringing is still a major factor (especially with the faster Orca-slicer profile).

What i really like is Tap.. if I clean the nozzle, the first layer is just perfect!

Sooo.. after över 240 hours of printing, it is time for a major overhaul.

Appart from general maintenance (checking belts, greasing rails, look over the cabling etc.) I have 3 uppgrades ahead:

1. Canbus: I simply don't trust my wiring, sure if you lay them down perfectly and the supplier delivers good wires, then it should be allright... Now for me..I see 2 problems right there... Because of this I orederd the BTT-RP2040 kit (larger crimps may just keep it to ONE swear-jar) and I hope that i can get it to work.

2. Sensorless homing: why bother with recabling the sensors when i go the can-route.. maybe it will be a slightly slower homing on X/Y and it could be some millimeters off on the relative position, but i think I can live with that (until I can't and then put back the sensors...) (OK.. I may have to get another swear-jar anyway...)

3. CW2 with helical gears. I bought some helical gears before Orbiter 2 was announced, so thats my take on the woodgrain issue (that one is already finished, quite easy build).

4. replace tap with cnc-tap

I'll thake that in tow steps, first I go sensorless so I still have a working printer, and once that is running comfortably, I'll replace my CW2 with a new one with helical gear and CAN-board and the tap all in one go.

Wish me luck!

edit: Yea.. once I got my canboard running, it has an acceleration sensor onboard, should make it easy
 
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