Doomed Trident 300

[Oneway]

And so it starts ,
this should be frustrating, time consuming and fairly expensive but totally worth it when it finally goes brrrr!

Due to long lead times for the frame and a life I haven’t finalized many things at this point in regards to hardware choices and setup, but now that the box of aluminum sticks landed I guess it’s time to commit before I change my mind.

Here’s what it is, so far…

Doomcube/EZbake Trident
Frame - DLLPDF
Color - Illusion Chartreuse
Build area - 300x300x300
100mm extra height for umbilical and stuff.

 

[Oneway]

Lots to print while waiting on parts to arrive and since im still undecided on which direction im going to take for a few items I decided to just start at the bottom and work my way up. My previous and only build prior to this was my 300 trident which being a kit was very straightforward since everything was basically spelled out for you with the exceptions of the mods so printing was just checking items off a list, this printer is all mods so im in no hurry and will print as i go.
Starting with the skirts, adding the mesh, discovering that the stl files available for the front skirts were only posted in 250 and 350mm presented a problem. Ive never opened Fusion, the little bit of modeling ive done was in onshape so after finding the correct cad which happened to be the Tridex printer which shares the same corners and front skirts I got to work.
Didnt take long to figure out how to cut a section of the skirt out and combine the end back with the main section, not bad for the first time opening fusion, I think ill continue to learn with some how tos on youtube.
Printing parts this time is so much nicer, for one thing ive been printing for quite some time at this point and im not using a POS creality printer covered with a cardboard box, what a difference

Filament Used
Phaetus ABS-GF, black
Hatchbox ABS, pastel green

The accent color was actually a test at first with some filament that has been sitting on my shelf for some time, looks good and prints really nice, plus I didnt have to buy anything.
The ABS-GF from phaetus is one of my goto filaments, prints amazing at higher speeds and shows very little in the way of layer lines, plus I really like the texture and matt finish.




Parts should start landing in the next few days so I wont bore you anymore with printed parts, im sure nobody reads this anyway but youve seen one part and yadda yadda yadda. Hopefully the quality is up to par, this machine is going to be pretty damn nice once i figure out how to build a few of the main components, def not just another trident.

 

[Oneway]

Questions to anyone with actual knowledge of the outcome.

1. Using mgn12 rails for the rear Z instead of mgn9? pros? cons? anything?
2. Using old linear rails for backers on Y axis instead of purchasing flat expensive titanium, has anyone tried it? I have a titanium one frim my old x gantry already and dont want the extra weight of all other rail.
3. Wobble X ? Ive read that it works but would you build it first or wait to see if its needed, I believe you lose some Z but honestly with the extra 50mm im building into this and rarely ever using the 250ish available on my trident Im not worried about 18 some odd mm of loss if its worth it.
4. Nitehawk rev C , Im pretty sure this is the route im going since can is more of a cant with the chamber temps this will be running. My trident has canbus and despite hours and hours of printing with a chamber temp of 65-70c I’ve had zero issues and even the setup went off without an hitch, that said I’ve read about all the problems. I was going to go straight umbilical until I started researching parts and realized they finally released the nitehawk in the ebb36! The biggest plus for me besides the easier install is the loss of the extra cable for the beacon , that alone makes it worth it. Any practical advice would be greatly appreciated.
5. Power supply configuration, im pretty much leaning towards 48v, maybe, that said if I do go that route does that mean I can get away with the smaller 24v meanwell therby using the same space as one 200w 24v for both supplies , the electronics is the part I’m most apprehensive about and the wiring , I can only do monkey see monkey do since I don’t have alot of practical application
6. 5v ps or no? Is pulling from the board a bad idea ? Is it better to be able to power up the pi while not the entire printer , that seems like a good idea.
7. Octopus Pro, I know there are three chipsets and of that two are favored , at the time I’m writing this one is unavailable , do I need the one I can’t get , will I kick myself for not waiting?

Thanks to anyone taking time to leave some advice, I have discord as well and will be most likely posting in desperation once the Monolith awd gets underway, that one I have zero knowledge other than what I’ve read and no instructions . Awesome

 

[Oneway]

Making some progress and some mistakes or recalculations i should say. Currently printing the motion system parts while starting to wire everything. Still havent decided on steppers for the xy since changing my direction from AWD to 2wd, im undecided on voltage and whether to go 24 or 48v and obviously the ladder comes with the requirements of another ps and drivers of which im a bit short on room to accomodate but have a plan. As it stands now my biggest concerns are as follows.

1. Stepper choice for xy
2. Voltage for xy 24 or 48?
3. Driver choice for xy.
4. Rear panel layout and umbilical route.
5. CPAP placement.
6. Toolhead, xol, arch, the one with the shitty IS test but is nice and minimal.
7. CNC carriage mount
8. LED layout
9. Umbilical type

I made a really impulsive decision and bought the nitehawk ebb36 and didnt fully research things, actually I kinda looked at the most important factor which is chamber temp for me and thought I saw 85c as the max operating temp which would have been fine, but I guess they have since revised this to be 65c which isnt going to work for me so now im deciding on whether to just send it and see how well it works while keeping the temps under 65c for a bit just to get a feel for the system or change it now to my original idea being a simple umbilical and breakout board. It was honestly to usb header and losing a cable in the umbilical that sold me, maybe they can figure out the heat problem , right.

 

[Devvs]

Questions to anyone with actual knowledge of the outcome.

1. Using mgn12 rails for the rear Z instead of mgn9? pros? cons? anything?
2. Using old linear rails for backers on Y axis instead of purchasing flat expensive titanium, has anyone tried it? I have a titanium one frim my old x gantry already and dont want the extra weight of all other rail.
3. Wobble X ? Ive read that it works but would you build it first or wait to see if its needed, I believe you lose some Z but honestly with the extra 50mm im building into this and rarely ever using the 250ish available on my trident Im not worried about 18 some odd mm of loss if its worth it.
4. Nitehawk rev C , Im pretty sure this is the route im going since can is more of a cant with the chamber temps this will be running. My trident has canbus and despite hours and hours of printing with a chamber temp of 65-70c I’ve had zero issues and even the setup went off without an hitch, that said I’ve read about all the problems. I was going to go straight umbilical until I started researching parts and realized they finally released the nitehawk in the ebb36! The biggest plus for me besides the easier install is the loss of the extra cable for the beacon , that alone makes it worth it. Any practical advice would be greatly appreciated.
5. Power supply configuration, im pretty much leaning towards 48v, maybe, that said if I do go that route does that mean I can get away with the smaller 24v meanwell therby using the same space as one 200w 24v for both supplies , the electronics is the part I’m most apprehensive about and the wiring , I can only do monkey see monkey do since I don’t have alot of practical application
6. 5v ps or no? Is pulling from the board a bad idea ? Is it better to be able to power up the pi while not the entire printer , that seems like a good idea.
7. Octopus Pro, I know there are three chipsets and of that two are favored , at the time I’m writing this one is unavailable , do I need the one I can’t get , will I kick myself for not waiting?

Thanks to anyone taking time to leave some advice, I have discord as well and will be most likely posting in desperation once the Monolith awd gets underway, that one I have zero knowledge other than what I’ve read and no instructions . Awesome

MGN12 vs MGN9: MGN12’s a bit beefier, so if you’re hauling some serious weight on the Z-axis, go for it. Otherwise, MGN9 should be fine.


Old Rails for Y: If your old rails still run smooth, why not reuse them? Could save some cash, just don’t expect titanium-level precision.


Wobble X: If it ain't broke, don’t fix it. If you see wobble, then maybe consider it, but you’re good for now.