What's new
VORON Design

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members!

Self Sourced Trident 300 build


I've just started with a Trident 300mm build using PolyLite ABS Black for primary and eSUN ABS+ Peek Green accents.
Frame is a Black LDO kit, hotend would be the Phaetus Dragonfly hotend (anything is better than the generic knock-off V6's) and finally an Octopus 1.1 board.

"Mods" I'm going to install right from the start:
  • Stealthburner - not really a mod, but different from the Trident manual
  • KlickyNG instead of the melty inductive probe
  • BTT SB2209 toolhead board using a Waveshare Pi CAN HAT - I don't like drag chains and apparently the BTT Octopus CAN isn't super stable
  • Removing the endstop pod and moving the Y to the A drive and the X to the carriage due to the above
  • Nevermore v5 Duo - so also a closed up exhaust on the back panel
  • M3 door hinges and handles that are attached to the door panels with screws - No more VHB tape!
  • Replacing the GE5C bearings with a ball and socket style joint - I might just undo this and go back to stock if it doesn't work out, but these bearings are stupid expensive for some reason!
  • 2 x "Disco on a stick" neopixel PCB's instead of the LED strip
  • Replacing the panel holders with the latch panels mod - saves a TON of M3 screws and T-Nuts
All parts are printed myself and everything will be pretty much "stock" with parts self-sourced except for the frame and hardware (screws, heat inserts, etc...) that are both from LDO.
These two items alone in kit form saved me at least CAD100. I'm still waiting on the final 350mm linear rail for the Y axis (arriving today sometime) before I can continue with the build, but here's what I have so far!

Frame built and idlers and AB drives installed


Finished up with the Z axis


Installed the bottom panel and wire covers


Bed resting in place for now... The ball and socket joints on the Z seem to work as expected
(spring steel plate will be replaced after I'm confident that the nozzle won't dig holes or trenches in the PEI sheet)

PXL_20230621_141526850 (1).jpg

Some electronics and wiring already started (will be tidying up the wiring a bit later)

I jumped back into it today after going away this weekend, and so far things are coming along smoothly.

  • Completed the CW2 and Stealthburner assembly
  • Belt routing was fun... but done!
  • Managed to get all of the electronics wired up and as tidy as I'm comfortable with

I had a bit of an issue with the heated bed not warming up, but after about 2 hours of struggling I realized that I had both ends of the wire connected to live! TWO HOURS to find that... and fixed in a few seconds!

I still have to figure out how to use both a CAN HAT as well as a DIP-format display to work on the single GPIO header of the RPi, but that's a project for another day.

PID tuning done on both bed and hotend. Next up is "e-steps" tuning and a test print!

Stealthburner Installed


Wiring of the SB2209 done!


And it looks like everything works as expected!


Busy week at the office, so I've only had an hour here and there to work on the build. Still, I think I'm just about there! I have a few skirts left to print (left and right) and the latches for the bottom electronics cover. Once done, I can tidy up the electronics compartment a little before starting with some more cosmetic mods. (Sturdy handles, panel latches for the sides, etc...)

I've not yet completed the excellent tuning guide by Ellis, but I've done the basic tuning as per the Voron docs: Calibrated extruder, Z offset checks, etc...
After this basic tuning, I went ahead and printed the front-left skirt. Seems to have come out pretty darn decent.

A tough decision was made to remove the TFT display because of the GPIO pins being reserved for the CAN Hat. (My display goes directly onto the 40 pin GPIO and uses DPI, so some pins are reserved) I actually prefer the mini display over KlipperScreen in any case, plus I have my phone with me at all times, so I'm alright with this for now.

Next steps:
  • Finish printing the skirts and bottom deck plate latches
  • Tidy up the electronics bay
  • "Re-enforce" the CAN cable (Can't find spring steel cable at local stored and I don't like this thing dragging around behind the carriage; seems like a recipe for disaster)
  • Run through the entire Ellis tuning guide
  • Print and install "sturdy handles"
  • Print and install a nozzle scrubber and purge bucket

Panel installation started


Doors installed


Chamber lights working ("Disco on a stick" on either side of the chamber)


Mini12864 display installed and working, and C270 web cam installed (front right)

Looking good!! Also nearly done with my Trident (M8P + 2209 CAN). Any pointers on a working .cfg file for the Trident running the Manta M8P?
I have fitted my trident with a manta 5 with cb1 and eeb36. Runs very well, upload my cfg if you are interested