VORON Design
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Formbot V0.2 Kit Build - Darth Voron (S/N V0.2633)
- Thread starter Mxbrnr
- Start date
robrob
Active member
BT- you can check my full configs on GitHub! (there is a link to the instructions on how to sync them to git in the readme; it's awesome- just be sure to add your octoeverywhere settings to the gitignore so your API key isn't publicly exposed, lol ask me how I know)
github.com
warning: I haven't fully setup any of the macros other than the "backup config" one, so don't trust /use them!
GitHub - rangersnuggles/Voron02configs
Contribute to rangersnuggles/Voron02configs development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
warning: I haven't fully setup any of the macros other than the "backup config" one, so don't trust /use them!
BallisticTech
Active member
Thanks @robrob and @Mxbrnr .
I see my currents and Sensorless sensitivity is pretty close to Rob's.
There's a little blurb in the _HOME_X and _HOME_Y macros about setting the homing current to
I read 70% less as meaning 30% of run_current which would be like .21
But with a homing current that low I got really bad/inconsistent results when setting the sensitivity.
I think they actually want a Percentage as a decimal here?
If you look at the macro they then set the current for homing to be Home_Current * Run_Current...???
Then at the end of the Macro set the current back to the original Run_Current.
I just don't think the instructions match what's actually happening in the macro... Or am I just super confused here?
In the TMC Sensorless guide on Klipper docs they directly set the current to the set HOME_CUR variable then set it back.
I see my currents and Sensorless sensitivity is pretty close to Rob's.
There's a little blurb in the _HOME_X and _HOME_Y macros about setting the homing current to
Code:
{% set HOME_CURRENT = XX %} # replace the XX with a current value that is about 70% less than your run_current value for X and YI read 70% less as meaning 30% of run_current which would be like .21
But with a homing current that low I got really bad/inconsistent results when setting the sensitivity.
I think they actually want a Percentage as a decimal here?
If you look at the macro they then set the current for homing to be Home_Current * Run_Current...???
Then at the end of the Macro set the current back to the original Run_Current.
I just don't think the instructions match what's actually happening in the macro... Or am I just super confused here?
In the TMC Sensorless guide on Klipper docs they directly set the current to the set HOME_CUR variable then set it back.
StackingDeezLayers
New member
What mount did you use for the Manta E3 EZ? I plan on using this motherboard along with a Formbot kit too. Along with that question, does the screen just plug in to? Just a USB C plug?
This is the one I used. I'm not a big fan of attaching things with VHB tape, but this seems the best solution I could find for my desires.
As for the screen, I actually don't know because I don't use mine; never had any intention of using it, so never hooked it up or programmed it.
As for the screen, I actually don't know because I don't use mine; never had any intention of using it, so never hooked it up or programmed it.
robrob
Active member
The screen plugs in via USB, but the included USB-C cable is monstrous looking when it pokes out the side on the front of your skirts; I hacked up an old USB cable and connected it to the backside of the screen with Dupont connectors. after you flash the firmware it shows up alongside your MCU in Klipper.
Attachments
Build Update:
Here are the mods I have so far made to my Formbot V0.2 kit...
1) Swapped out the stock build BTT SKR Pico and BTT Pi for a BTT Manta E3EZ & BTT CB1 combo. I found this change was needed to make use of the built-in chamber thermistor in the V0 Umbilical mod that comes with the kit, and to add the extra fans listed below.
2) Added a CPU fan to the BTT CB1. I found that while printing the CPU temp would regularly approach or exceed 50*C. This fan has thus far kept the temp to around 40*C.
3) Added a fan underneath the Kirigami bed to circulate the bed heat for better chamber temp stabilization. My testing has shown that with this the chamber can reach upwards of 45*C in about half the amount of time. However, I also found that a fan speed in excess of 35% pulls too much heat away from the bed for the stock heater to keep up until temps have stabilized, then it can go up to 50%, but no more.
4) Added a cover plate for the z-axis lead screw floor gap.
5) Added carrying handles to the tophat.
Future Mods Planned:
1) Chamber LEDs
2) Dragon Burner toolhead with Rapido HF hotend
4) Nozzle LEDs
5) Replace & relocate chamber thermistor (the V0-Umbilical built-in one is surprisingly inaccurate)
6) Upgrade bed heater to 100W AC (will additionally require an upgraded 200W PSU to handle the increased power consumption)
Here are the mods I have so far made to my Formbot V0.2 kit...
1) Swapped out the stock build BTT SKR Pico and BTT Pi for a BTT Manta E3EZ & BTT CB1 combo. I found this change was needed to make use of the built-in chamber thermistor in the V0 Umbilical mod that comes with the kit, and to add the extra fans listed below.
2) Added a CPU fan to the BTT CB1. I found that while printing the CPU temp would regularly approach or exceed 50*C. This fan has thus far kept the temp to around 40*C.
3) Added a fan underneath the Kirigami bed to circulate the bed heat for better chamber temp stabilization. My testing has shown that with this the chamber can reach upwards of 45*C in about half the amount of time. However, I also found that a fan speed in excess of 35% pulls too much heat away from the bed for the stock heater to keep up until temps have stabilized, then it can go up to 50%, but no more.
4) Added a cover plate for the z-axis lead screw floor gap.
5) Added carrying handles to the tophat.
Future Mods Planned:
1) Chamber LEDs
2) Dragon Burner toolhead with Rapido HF hotend
4) Nozzle LEDs
5) Replace & relocate chamber thermistor (the V0-Umbilical built-in one is surprisingly inaccurate)
6) Upgrade bed heater to 100W AC (will additionally require an upgraded 200W PSU to handle the increased power consumption)
My home values were a bit lower (49 and 53), but those are easily affected by belt tension and motor current, so that can explain that. The run currents do look about right; mine are set at 0.8.
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Build update, Sept 30:
Well, what was originally planned as a simple refresh to the V0.2r1 update and a couple of upgrades turned into a nearly complete rebuild, but Darth Voron is ready to resume his reign of terror.
Well, what was originally planned as a simple refresh to the V0.2r1 update and a couple of upgrades turned into a nearly complete rebuild, but Darth Voron is ready to resume his reign of terror.
- Replaced ALL the 3D printed parts on the machine. The parts that I got from the PIF program fell petty short of my quality standards, and as I found out, short of the PIF Program standards as well. Many of the parts had various failures to include layer adhesion, wall/surface gaps, dimensional accuracy, and even blobs. I was able to use the machine to print its own replacement parts before disassembling it for the rebuild, and I am much more pleased with the outcome and much more confident in them. Filaments used were Overture ABS in Black, and Flashforge ASA in Iron Gray. Here is a sampling of the issues seen on nearly every part that came in my kit from the PIF program; no fault to the PIF program, as it may be just an individual supplier problem, but like with anything else, always inspect the work to make sure it is to standards...
- Changed the kit 60W build plate/heated bed and power supply with the LDO polyimide 100W bed heater kit (including 200W power supply required for the higher power bed). Bed temps are attained much faster, are much more accurate, and heat the chamber much faster and to higher temps now along with the use of the bed heat circulation fan I installed previously. All bed and bed fan wiring is now run via Wago connectors mounted to the inside of the Kirigami bed frame, rather than being directly wired all the way to the controller board, making removal of the bed from the machine much easier if ever needed.
- Installed a different floor/z-drive 3D printed cover plate.
- Updated all Kirigami bed 3D printed parts with latest revision.
- Installed Kirigami bed "V0 Stealth Bumper" face plate
- Installed "arrow" front idler tophat cam locks
- Installed larger bed screw thumb nuts
- Changed the stock Mini-Stealthburner toolhead to the Dragonburner toolhead combined with the Sherpa Mini extruder and BMG RIDGA extruder gears. Unfortunately, the Sherpa-Mini's ability to retain the end of a Bowden tube in its housing is pretty atrocious, it really needs to accept a coupler for better retention. Apparently a user requested this mod a couple years ago even and made it themselves, but Annex Engineering has still not implemented it as an official option, so it only remains as a user-mod for an older version of the housing which is not compatible with the BMG RIDGA. Seems I will need to modify it myself to make that a reality.
- Disconnected the V0 Umbilical PCB thermistor and installed a generic hotend thermistor mounted to the top of a z-axis extrusion for use as the chamber temp probe. The PCB thermistor was rather unreliable due to its mounting on the PCB directly above the electronics compartment, which allowed its temp reading to be significantly affected by the ambient air in the electronics bay. Note that the new probe needed to be mounted to the outboard side of the extrusion to keep it out of the airflow coming off the hotend in order for it to get the most accurate reading for the actual ambient air temp inside the chamber.
- Installed foam tape to clear acrylic panels (excluding door) where they seal against extrusions.
- Changed stock tophat hinges to "lift-off" hinges.
- Removed stock front skirt display and changed to "blank" skirt.
- Installed chamber LED strips
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I just noted the less than optimal setup for the Picobilical "chamber" thermistor myself. With the printer sitting idle, open (no door or tophat yet) I saw the thing reading 30.5C. Yeah, it wasn't that hot in the room. I dug around and found that the thermistor is on the frame PCB, which really makes it an electronics enclosure thermistor, not a print chamber thermistor. Makes me wonder why it wasn't either omitted or put on the tool head PCB. In any case, I've already planned for the same mod as you are. I believe I can use the gpio17 port on the SKR Pico for it--it appears Picobilical frees that one up.
Build update, Oct 5th:
As one of the first calibrations on the rebuilt machine, I purchased the Provok3D nozzle-mount ADXL345 for running input shaper, and after doing so, it's hitting 22k acceleration! The default setting is 2k, and previously I had done input shaping the old fashioned way with a test print and dial calipers, which got me up to 4k on the stock machine. Now we are more than 5 times that quick! The hotend is still limiting it to around 200mm/s print speed (12-15mm^3 volumetric flow) , but a simple upgrade to a CHT nozzle should get to near double that, which will probably be more than enough for my uses. Surprisingly, changing the tool head from the Mini-Stealthburner to the Dragonburner showed that their weights between the two are as near as makes no difference, though for its weight the DB has bigger cooling fans and is mounted more rigidly. Modifying the Sherpa Mini housing to accept a coupler for a reverse-Bowden tube will probably eliminate the remaining weight difference. I will admit that I like the look of the Mini-SB much more (especially in its multi-color variants) and it has better wire routing, but the part cooling on the DB is SIGNIFICANTLY better.
As one of the first calibrations on the rebuilt machine, I purchased the Provok3D nozzle-mount ADXL345 for running input shaper, and after doing so, it's hitting 22k acceleration! The default setting is 2k, and previously I had done input shaping the old fashioned way with a test print and dial calipers, which got me up to 4k on the stock machine. Now we are more than 5 times that quick! The hotend is still limiting it to around 200mm/s print speed (12-15mm^3 volumetric flow) , but a simple upgrade to a CHT nozzle should get to near double that, which will probably be more than enough for my uses. Surprisingly, changing the tool head from the Mini-Stealthburner to the Dragonburner showed that their weights between the two are as near as makes no difference, though for its weight the DB has bigger cooling fans and is mounted more rigidly. Modifying the Sherpa Mini housing to accept a coupler for a reverse-Bowden tube will probably eliminate the remaining weight difference. I will admit that I like the look of the Mini-SB much more (especially in its multi-color variants) and it has better wire routing, but the part cooling on the DB is SIGNIFICANTLY better.
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FYI, I looked at the pinouts on the SKR Pico more and thought about it more. gpio17 probably won't work--that's just a fan on/off. It looks more like gpio 26 or 27 (THB, TH0) might work since Picobilical freed those up. Just semi-educated guesses for now.
Thanks for that comparison on the tool heads. I doubt I'll bother looking much at Dragonburner then--I'm not chasing grams. As it is, I'll have to tear my MiniSB down as the right side part cooling fan seems to be binding up.
Thanks for that comparison on the tool heads. I doubt I'll bother looking much at Dragonburner then--I'm not chasing grams. As it is, I'll have to tear my MiniSB down as the right side part cooling fan seems to be binding up.
BallisticTech
Active member
I believe the thermistor on the VO frame board is on the top of the PCB when it's mounted. Meaning it is somewhat indicative of the chamber temperature.
I've heard people mentioning using a non-thermistor pin on an SKR Pico to read the chamber thermistor but I still haven't seen any posts noting how to get it to work. I think thermistor pins generally have some extra circuitry necessary to read the thermistors correctly.
I added a Klipper Expander board to my build to read the thermistor chamber, drive fans for the Nevermore, and drive extra neopixels.
Build update, Dec 12:
Hit right around 100hrs of print time and started running into issues with the V0-Umbilical mod included in the Formbot V0.2 kit. I know it is either a wiring or connector issue causing my hotend heater to lose power. The umbilical cable is much to stiff, and that combined with it's length causes it to push against the tophat almost constantly, all together putting quite a bit of stress on the wire ends and the PCB receptacles. Sadly, this is just one more thing I have recently discovered that I find less than impressive about the Formbot kit, though I would say that it is still very much worth the price and I still love this thing; wouldn't trade it for anything else (except a V2.4 or Trident? haha).
I removed the heat shrink and sheathing from the harness which has already made the bundle much more flexible, and have found some strain relief mount mods to try. If that doesn't work then I will likely end up changing the wiring out with something even more flexible.
Frame-side strain relief and connector support... https://www.printables.com/model/661256-voron-v02-umbilical-pcb-strain-relief-and-molex-su
Toolhead-side PCB mount with strain relief (for Dragon Burner and Sherpa-Mini)... https://www.printables.com/model/470918-v02-umbilical-pcb-mount-for-dragonburner-and-sherp
Hit right around 100hrs of print time and started running into issues with the V0-Umbilical mod included in the Formbot V0.2 kit. I know it is either a wiring or connector issue causing my hotend heater to lose power. The umbilical cable is much to stiff, and that combined with it's length causes it to push against the tophat almost constantly, all together putting quite a bit of stress on the wire ends and the PCB receptacles. Sadly, this is just one more thing I have recently discovered that I find less than impressive about the Formbot kit, though I would say that it is still very much worth the price and I still love this thing; wouldn't trade it for anything else (except a V2.4 or Trident? haha).
I removed the heat shrink and sheathing from the harness which has already made the bundle much more flexible, and have found some strain relief mount mods to try. If that doesn't work then I will likely end up changing the wiring out with something even more flexible.
Frame-side strain relief and connector support... https://www.printables.com/model/661256-voron-v02-umbilical-pcb-strain-relief-and-molex-su
Toolhead-side PCB mount with strain relief (for Dragon Burner and Sherpa-Mini)... https://www.printables.com/model/470918-v02-umbilical-pcb-mount-for-dragonburner-and-sherp
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