What's new
VORON Design

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members!

Solved Heat insulation necessary to avoid bending the acrylic bottom panel?

Andreas

Andreas

Active member
Cheerio my friends, I'm just starting to build the 2.4R2. When I watched Thomas Sanladerers Video on his build he mentions a bent bottom panel due to the heat radiated by the bed. Did you guys insulate the bed or do anything to avoid sth like this?

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Or do you run your 2.4 without any similar measures and it just works fine?

Thanks in advance!
 
You really don't want to insulate the bottom of the bed: you want that radiating as much heat as possible into the chamber: many people even have fans under the bed to better harvest that heat.

If you're worried about the acrylic, it *may* make sense to put a little bit of something directly on top of the acrylic: I don't know, none of my printers have acrylic for that plate.
 
I also don't have acrylic for that panel (I have 3mm thick ABS), but there are little supports you can put along the sides of the panel to keep it straight, which may help.
 
Well, I'm actually not sure which material it is made of. I just assumed its acrylic but I actually do not know. But anyhow, I'm using the formbot kit which is the same being used in Thomas' video. Any recommendations on what I could attach to the plate? I got aluminum tape here but not sure if I want that on there being known for its ability to transfer heat.

Thanks already for the link to the support clips
 
Andreas said:
Well, I'm actually not sure which material it is made of. I just assumed its acrylic but I actually do not know. But anyhow, I'm using the formbot kit which is the same being used in Thomas' video. Any recommendations on what I could attach to the plate? I got aluminum tape here but not sure if I want that on there being known for its ability to transfer heat.

Thanks already for the link to the support clips
Click to expand...
Linked clips should be enough. Only acrylic panels warp and Formbot does use them. Look into ACM panels rather than additional insulation.
 
Corunir said:
Linked clips should be enough. Only acrylic panels warp and Formbot does use them. Look into ACM panels rather than additional insulation.
Click to expand...
Well, the set for the 350 size would add another 80EUR/$. If if can get away with the clips and the reflective material I'll go the cheap way here
 
You only need the bottom if you go ACM, the rest of the panels are awesome as well though, and in my opinion very worth the investment.

The only problem I have with any of the available options (ABS, Acrylic, ACM) is that inside my 2.4 is a dust magnet. Every single hair and speck of dust, not to mention little bits of filament, seem to litter the inside. I am constantly wiping down, not that it's a bad thing to clean it...
 
Well, so far I've only found a German supplier selling the whole kit and not individual plates. I also could try to cut a sheet myself out of thin steel plates, but I dont think I want to spend the time for that and then having to deal with potential corrosion after time
 
I have insulation on the bottom of my bed, Works well plate heats quickly bottom acylic panel has not warped at all and the chamber heats up just fine.
 
I found a hardwarestore nearby where I could get a single sheet of aluminum composite cut to the outer dimensions needed (thats 469mm for the 350). It didnt cost much and I'll use this as my deck, I'll leave the other panels unchanged and use them as they are in my formbot kit.

Thanks for your help everyone!
 
Acrylic can get soft-ish but is usually fine.
Having the panel slightly undersized with some room around it is the critical part. Compared to aluminum frame the deck panel will expand quite a bit more (~3x) with the temperature change during heat-up and printing. The drawings call for 1mm undersized panel for that reason (see https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/Drawing_DXFs/Panels/Deck_Panel.PDF).

If the panel was sitting snug between the frame extrusions at room temp it can't expand in x/y and will bow/get wavy.
 
The deck panel I got in my formbot kit measured 467mm, thats enough clearance I assume. However I feel much better with the ACM panel I bought and it was cheap; Its just not a beauty since I cut everything by hand...
 
I work with a lot of .060” aluminum at work. I was thinking about making some custom holders out of ABS and then cutting down some scrap aluminum pieces to act as a heat shield for the acrylic. Can anyone think of any negatives on doing this?
 
Formbot (used to, I'e hear newer kits are fixed.) have under spec'ed panels that were too thin. Panels that are to spec tend not to have warping issues, and if you are still worried just get an ACM panel set from a local vendor.
 
dunar said:
Acrylic can get soft-ish but is usually fine.
Having the panel slightly undersized with some room around it is the critical part. Compared to aluminum frame the deck panel will expand quite a bit more (~3x) with the temperature change during heat-up and printing. The drawings call for 1mm undersized panel for that reason (see https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/Drawing_DXFs/Panels/Deck_Panel.PDF).

If the panel was sitting snug between the frame extrusions at room temp it can't expand in x/y and will bow/get wavy.
Click to expand...

Speaking of expansion: ACM consists of Aluminum and PE; PE alone would expand quite a bit --> roughly 5.5mm with a temperature difference of 60 Kelvin (when 469mm deck used as needed for the 350 V2.4). Aluminum on the other hand only 0.65mm for the same temperature difference. I hope the aluminum in the ACM panels keeps the sheet from expanding too much.

As I dont want to mess with the deck any more once my 2.4 is build, I cut another 1mm away for safety; Having a clearance of roughly 1mm to each side, so 2 in total for each, x and y dimension.
 
5twenty said:
You only need the bottom if you go ACM, the rest of the panels are awesome as well though, and in my opinion very worth the investment.

The only problem I have with any of the available options (ABS, Acrylic, ACM) is that inside my 2.4 is a dust magnet. Every single hair and speck of dust, not to mention little bits of filament, seem to litter the inside. I am constantly wiping down, not that it's a bad thing to clean it...
Click to expand...
textured ABS hides the crud well ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Electronics Up Top
Replies
0
Views
885
delta88ragtop
D
C
All Black Voron 2.4r2 350mm Formbot Kit
Replies
0
Views
2K
CocoMonGo
C
P
I did chamber heating tests with a Nevermore and Elis bed heating fans to see how fast different setups heated up the chamber. Results inside.
Replies
3
Views
4K
FriedPCB
F
P
Goldie - the 350 Voron 2.4 R2 Fysetc kit
2
Replies
30
Views
5K
pws
P
Top