My 1st 3d printer with 350 V 2.4 R2

[Pradit]

# Tuning........ Fail!!!

I just don't get the term and jargon or the parameter or everything altogether.

Like follow everything blindly and that's the result.

This happened with my misunderstand of the z endstop offset value.

(Less mean higher from the bed, More mean lower to the bed. Don't make mistakes like me.)



And really I didn't know what to look for in the result on the 1st layer.

Gave up and go with pressure advance (PA)



Again I don't know what parameter I suppose to adjust.

Do I adjust PA as the result giving then retest?







When PA has been set then what should we update the number while real printing?
More numbers mean what? Less mean what? Really confusing.

 

[Pradit]

OK I kept going with the tuning something else.

Let's try the cube.













Yap again, What those mean and what to fix?

Which parameter? I've been lost in the rabbit hole deeper and deeper....

I was using Prusaslicer at that time.

And I changed to Superslicer now.

 

[Pradit]

I'm taking a break for tuning and calibration before I'm getting mad.

Let's print something useful and see the mistake.

# PI Cam mount.













Those mistakes what are they called?

I have to research more on those.

The angle is very limited to my 350 build. I couldn't see the 0,0. PI Cam quality really limit.

 

[Pradit]

Back to tuning again.

With this vase mode cube.

With the same as all those failed attempt config parameters.

But the result was not bad. I really have no idea.

With this trial and error and giving random results.

 

[Pradit]

Print something useful again.

# Purge Bucket

This purge bucket supposes to fit right with my klicky probe.















But it turns out I may need to cut it off a few more mm.... Let me find some time to do that.

 

[Pradit]

# Fail slicing...

I just download Ellis's profile and use his printer profile and slice the belt tension tool.

I thought why not!! I have Rapido UHF. (but use the HF)

What could go wrong!!!









I have been printing so many tension tools just to trial and error with slicer parameters.

To see what could be the problem. All dead end. Spent all night figuring it out but no result.

 

[Pradit]

In the morning I checked the temp flow for my extruder while hot.

180, 200, 210, 215 in order from left to right.

215 is much better. So I setup for my PLA with this temp from now on.



I went ahead and check the teeth mark on the filament that the extruder made.

It looks nice not grinding and has a little mark. So the extrusion should be fine.

Then what causes the under extrusion then????



Go with PA test again with 215C.





Now I set PA at 0.05.

 

[Pradit]

# Slicer

It is the key to everything. I have to learn more on slicer.

I decided to change to Superslicer instead since most people in Voron using it.

But I'm using Mac I had trouble installing it while I downloaded from the github.

My Mac error while installing.

Then I found this homebrew. https://formulae.brew.sh/cask/superslicer

Then again I import Ellis's profile into SSlicer and print things.

# Wago mount





A little bit better belt tension. I have lots of these.



Starting belt tension.

At first I really don't get it how tight and what is 110 hz thing.

How to determine? How to inspect? At which location to detect? Etc..



The mobile app like spectrum stuff. I don't know how to use it. Very confusing.

Guitar tuner... bloody hell.. Didn't catch any frequency.

I went on and on finding the app.

Here is what I learn.

The belt should be pretty tight to make any sound higher than 70hz for those apps to catch.

AB belt you have to move the toolhead at Y 130 and X mid of your bed. Get the belt close to 140hz.

Or at least get the same tension for both.

Z belt just moves the toolhead to Z10 and tests.

Very very tight then the string can make the bass sound like in the guitar. I get it now.

Then after finish I use the belt tension tool to verify once again.

And done....

Here comes another problem.... Gantry racking once again after tension the bloody belt....

I'm running in circle.....

 

[Pradit]

I kept slicing with Ellis's profile.

Adjust some add some and print.



My Voron decided to produce me a piece of art....







I'll use it anyway. Just to remind me. I'll put it in the back anyway.

 

[Pradit]

Why not print Temp tower!!



Yeah 215 for this PLA is the sweet spot.

I discovered that SSlicer has calibration tools.

1st layer calibrate.

Pretty nice and I finally get it.






Flow calibrate yeah baby. So far so good.





Bridging.... bloody hell.... (I'm still using Ellis's profile blindly..)









Ironing I don't get it...

 

[Pradit]

I went back to using the default profile from SS.
Then ran this bridging test again.
Damn... everything is perfect.


Yet another belt tension tool. I think it's good test print and useful.
It turn out perfect.


1st layer test squish test, I still don't get it. (lower z, higher z stuff)
But finally, I got it perfect I think!?!



Go and check another PA.

So the default profile may be slower than Ellis's profile I blindly follow only 10%.
I'll keep tuning and following Ellis but with this default profile.

 

[Pradit]

# Input Shaper

I tried input shaper with my EBB36 building ADXL but failed.

The MCU shutdown time too close at 130 hz.

So I knew it might be a problem. I had this ready.

The portable input shaper.

I didn't how to use it.

I again flash the board and later found this https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-PortableInputShaper





I ran the test and again MCU shutdown at 110 hz.

Even lower than my EBB36.

I decided to change the config to test max at 90 hz.

Then save the result.

Hahah and it didn't save. (That's another issue on my klipper/octoprint.)

So I research and found how to put those results into my printer.cfg.

I don't know I move on... hahhaha.

BTW, at the end I thought I could just remove the usb out of my RPI

right away without turning it off first. I was wrong. The RPI crashed and gotta reboot.

 

[Pradit]

Shyte!!!

Turning upside down, tuning the belt, picking the belt, shaking toolhead and many things.

Suddenly this one fell on the desk.... M3x8 bolt!!!

I couldn't find where it came from....

 

[Pradit]

# Default Voron Profile

Since I decided back to use the default profile for voron in SSlicer.

Quality is perfect for me then I go ahead with that for now.

But earlier I took deracking once again with Ellis's guide.

Finished it then re-tension the belt.

QGL is now very very good tolerance 0.0036.

Now I had more confidence even though it might not print that fast.

I went ahead printing the rest of my build part then. After finishing then I'll come back to

tuning once again.

Here is one of the skirts.

 

[Pradit]

I tried to print multiple parts at once.

I only select a number of objects that print time within 6 hours or less.

These skirts took 6 hrs+. They came out good for me. I wonder what is

average printing time for anyone?

 

[Pradit]

Here is my DIY USB cable with 20 AWG wires which hoping Undervoltage warning in RPI will go away.

It turned out it had fewer warnings than before.

It still warns at the booth time and a few times during the load of web page or some sort.

I'm still connected via wahoo connector though. I'm not sure that would be the case.

But I leave it for the time being.

 

[Pradit]

For this set, I also have 6 hrs + of printing time. I'm not sure if is this a common time for printing or not.

1st layer squish good and it turns out good.

However, what I learned was every morning or 1st thing I should do for the day when turn on the printer.

I should g32 and a couple of QGL and g28 then start with 1 object of superslicer 1st layer calibrate print.

If the 1st print turns out good, it will be good the entire day.

If it's not then clear bed mesh and a couple of QGL and tries again.

That's how I did and it's working for me. Honestly I don't know why and what the reason though.

Sometimes the squish was off without doing anything.

 

[Pradit]

This set also took me 6 hrs +.

I'm really curious about it.



That's all the skirt parts with the fan installed. I included my bad center back prints too.

 

[Pradit]

These are PI TFT50 mounts.





The ribbon cable passed through the provided hole was too tight and bend the cable.

It causes the TFT unable to turn on.

So I had to cut it wide open to allow room for the cable.

 

[Pradit]

I still have to find the solution for the exhaust to allow me to print ABS safely.

I don't want the VOC in the room. This I print the stock first.