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My 1st 3d printer with 350 V 2.4 R2

Pradit

Well-known member
Finally I have the parts which I self source ready.
And I have a place to keep my build log.

I will come and keep update here once I finish managing the photo.

voron2.4350.png

This web help you make your mind for the color.

# Plan for my build:
1. 350 x 350 build
2. Octopus Pro 446 + TMC2209
3. Raspberry Pi 3B +
4. EBB36 Canbus
5. PITFT5
6. PI cam
7. Smoke detection alarm
8. Rapido
9. Octoprint
10. Klipper
11. Octodash
12. Klicky
13. Filament runout Unklicky
14. PurgeBucket & Nozzle brush
15. Sensorless Homing
16. Sexbolt
17. Nevermore filter and more filter
18. Some sort of removable panel and door with magnets.
19. Rolling Voron
20. Boot from SSD drive
21. LED LED LED and LED
22. Umbilical cord
23. Relocation chain
24. More on fire hazard prevent and protection
25. Remote monitor

Since I source every part by myself so it's a waiting game.
Then I started to order PIF from @Stephan (discord username).

He kindly helps me find a way to deliver to me with a cheaper fee from Germany. Thanks for that.

# PIF

pifbag.jpg
Here are the bags of the main printer part for Voron 2.4 R2 Rapido.

pif all.jpg
All the parts from the bag.

pifacolor.jpg
Accent color is orange.

pifbcolor1.jpg

1st bag base color.

pifbcolor2.jpg
2nd bag base color.

pifbcolor3.jpg
3rd bag base color.

Below here you can look at the print quality from PIF.
pif1.jpg
pif2.jpgpif3.jpg
 
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While I'm waiting for all parts and PIF part arrives. I'm starting to mess around with octopi.

# Software

  1. Voron document for installing software is quite good. Installing Octoprint doc You just follow the instruction there.
  2. There are so many octoprint plugins to choose from. I'll update later which is a must have once I have my printer running.
  3. Since I decided to boot my Octopi from SSD here is what I found.
    1. If RPI is under 4 then it can't use SSD NVMe. Mine is 3B+.
    2. Only SATA SSD with good USB cable. RPI really needs proper good power otherwise it will have a power shortage and unable to boot.
    3. Here is the link to follow how to step. 3B+ boot from USB
Screen Shot 2022-11-17 at 20.02.07.pngScreen Shot 2022-11-17 at 20.02.25.png

Assume that you have flashed your SSD with OCTOPI already then plug in the USB and reboot after this.
 
# Printed Part sorting

Stealth Burner printed parts
SBpart.jpg

Ideler printed parts
idlerpart.jpg

Gantry printed parts
gantrypart.jpg

Zdrive printed parts
zdrivepart.jpg

Rail printed parts
railpart.jpg

Din rail and chain guide printed parts
dinrailpart.jpg
 
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Now I decided to assemble the printed part first not the frame.
It may be not the same as the manual workflow.
Let's start with the Z drive.

# Zdrive

zdriveasspart.jpg

zdriveasspart2.jpg


80tass.jpg
zdriveass4.jpg


zdriveass3.jpgzdriveass5.jpg


zdrivemortorass.jpg
zdriveassdone.jpg
 
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# Raspberry PI CAM

Since I'm still waiting for some parts to build the frame and clean the rail. I again do something else while waiting.
I go for setting up the PI CAM.

1. Connect the cable correctly. I use a longer cam cable and have to carefully connect. Always put the shiny side opposite to the USB on our pi.
2. Lift the plastic up before inserting the ribbon cable.
3. The pi cam also has the shiny side face the same as the camera.
Reference howto connect PI cam.

4. ssh into your pi and type

sudo raspi-config
Select interface and enable pi cam.
5. Reboot and type
vcgencmd get_camera
It should detected 1.
Reference howto setup pi cam config

picam.jpg
 
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# BTT PITFT50
Then I continue with the raspberry pi screen setup with BTT PITFT50 and install Octodash.
1. Be careful with the ribbon connector the latch with the BTT is different from the pi. I force too much and it broke.
2. I follow the step here Howto install Octodash. Just run this command
3. Follow the wizard and now I have Octodash ready.

octodash-jpg.440
 

Attachments

  • octodash.jpg
    octodash.jpg
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# Stealth Burner

What I have found after assembly stealth burner and clockwork 2.
1. The set of screws I ordered is based on Afterburner so be aware.
2. The bmg extruder set that I ordered which I had to take apart. They are not quite like
the manual display. The gear doesn't turn very smoothly after putting them all together.

clockwork2.jpg
clockwork21.jpg
clockwork22.jpg
Here when I lock the latch then the gear turns not smooth. I don't know if is it supposed to be like that.

Just not sure if the bearing is too close or not in the position or not.
clockwork2 bearingcloseup.jpg



My fan hasn't arrived but I try to put together and see anyway.

sb1.jpg
The screw for the hatch covers the wire in the manual says M3x6 BHCS. It seems too short for my printed part.
I have to use a longer M3.

sb2.jpg

I tried to fit the CANBUS EBB36 with longer screws through the motor. It's work.
canbusebb36.jpg

canbusebb362.jpg
 
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# LED soldering

This is the least fun part for me. I don't have any skill in soldering or electrical at all.

led.jpg

soldering.jpg
Done, then wait and see if they are still sticking together after connecting.
 
# Deck Panel

The deck panel in the BOM is suggesting coroplast which I couldn't find in my local.
So I will try this polycarbonate roof instead.
Let's see how it goes.

deckpannel.jpg
 
# Build Plate

Start with cleaning with IPA.

buildplate.jpg

Stick the heat sheet.
buildplate2.jpg

Apply RTV as recommended.
buildplatertv.jpg

Please let me know if I've done anything wrong.
 
Since I'm still waiting for some parts for my frame to arrive. It seems China has another pandemic shutdown again.
I have to move on to the wiring.

# Wiring

I have to say crimping is not my favorite thing to do next to soldering.

16 AWG silicone wire from outlet to 24 V PSU and 5 V PSU.
outlet.jpg

I prepare the bed wiring to have the thermal fuse removable too.
16 AWG wire with connector to SSR and 24 V PSU.
bedwiring.jpg

I found this AWG reference online.

TempIncreaseCurrent AWG wire.jpeg
 
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From the other day I assembled the Clockwork2 and felt the extruder gear kinda turn with friction.

Is this what it suppose to happen?
Have I done anything wrong?
 
From the other day I assembled the Clockwork2 and felt the extruder gear kinda turn with friction.

Is this what it suppose to happen?
Have I done anything wrong?
Hi Pradit,

I took a look at a number of your YouTube videos on your build. It is hard to tell, but while you are assembling, be sure to run the screws down, but not tight all at once. When running them down, go across to the opposite side, and run this screw down, also not tight, and do the same with the other two. The idea, is to bring the screws down together a little at a time.

Enjoy your build and I hope you end up with a fantastic printer!
 
Yet again no parts arrived today.
I have nothing else to do but wait.

Here is another wiring.

SSRground.jpg

SSRground2.jpg

Hope I'm doing it correctly.


# 5v Wiring to PI

5vtopi.jpg
 
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