New Voron V2.4 - Is this configuration sound?

[PrintingNewb1]

Hi, Voron-pros!

I have been loosely following this printer development for quite some time, but with Christmas money, I finally decided to build one for myself. I have read the warnings on Voron tap, but since I do have an engineering background, I want to pace myself a little.
This is the configuration I was looking at, including the mods I thought would be nice. Is this configuration viable? Do you have additional recommendations?
I do own two Prusa Mk3 printers, but I was thinking to have the parts printed in PA-12 CF to allow for better heat characteristics - is there anything speaking against that?

Hardware:

• Stealthburner with Phaetus Rapido and Mellow Fly SB2040 CAN-Board
• Voron Tap
• Fysetc Spider + TMC2209
• Whoppingpochard V2 Kinematic Mount
• Whoppingpochard Extrusion Backers (Ti)
• PiTFT50

Mods:

• GE5C Mod
• Pin Mod
• Y Endstop Relocation (3mm recessed for Extrusion Backers)
• Front-Idler Mod
• Stealthburner-Cover
• PiTFT50-Holder

Addons:

• Angry USB Cam
• AB Motor Connectors
• Bed Pan
• Raspberry Pi DIN-Mount
• Fysetc Spider DIN-Mount
• Can Umblical
• Nevermore Max

Best regards
the newb

 

[m00dawg]

I also have some Prusa's (3) and built both a V0 and V2.4. Lots of folks say the V0 is harder than the 2.4. I didn't have that experience. My advice before you look at mods is to make the printer "to spec" either as it is intended if you buy a kit (I highly recommend the LDO kit) or per the standard manual. Once you have your printer working well with that config, you can then start looking at mods.

In my case I build a 2.4 LDO with the Omron bed level sensor first but I did somewhat break the above suggestion by building it with a CW2/Stealthburner combo. After that, my first prints were indeed Nevermore. I'll probably be doing Klicky but may wait on tap. Honestly for PLA the Omron sensor works flawlessly. For ABS it's a bit of a chore to calibrate because of temp drift. Has me thinking about a Super PINDA (I rather like touchless solutions but to be clear, the Tap looks amazing). Klicky is sort of a compromise and I do like you remove it when not in use to make the toolhead lighter.

Given my experience, unless you're building a 350mm, you might also consider the Trident. It should be a simpler build though I haven't built one yet. My next Voron will probably be a Trident unless I need another 350mm. I say that because quad gantry is a thing of beauty. I really like the bed never moves and is on the bottom, so low center of gravity and nothing to shake your parts free (e.g. when you're doing Z-hops). I get _the best_ bed adhesion on my 2.4. For 350mm I think may be worth the extra effort. For 250 or 300 I'm not quite as sure. Trident has the benefit of toolhead switchers and things (but I haven't looked into those).

The quad gantry does mean you need to allocate some solid effort in tuning the printer. I was used to Prusa MK3's auto calibration procedure. That doesn't exist on Vorons and I wasn't immediately aware. Threw me off when my tolerances were much worse than on my Prusa for big prints. I use Vector3D's Califlower to calibrate *after* doing all the steps in Elli's tuning docs.

I'd like to see both of those added to an official tuning guide honestly. Once you run through all that, the printer is *incredible*. I love my Prusa's and they are workhorsers (and I expect I might end up getting more Prusas in the future) but goodness the quality is better in every single way with my Voron 2.4 and working on the toolhead is also a heck of a lot better. The V0 is...well when it's having a good day it's amazing. I'll be converting it to a T0 at some point because the manual bed level is a real chore on that thing. I'll be taking it to V0.2 first though I suspect.

Anyways hope I addressed your questions. I know that was more commentary than specific answers but trying to outline my philosphy. Not saying it's right or wrong mind you, it's just how I tackled it.