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Self sourced Trident 350 build

mstaniszczak

Active member
Hello! So I decided to build a 3D printer by myself. Why? Just, because I want to build one myself:D Can't be a better reason:D I already have Creality K1, which I use to print parts for Voron. I was considering an option between 2.4 and Trident, and diced to build Trident, as it's easier to build and tune.
I don't build from a kit, I look for and select parts myself, and thanks to this I build immediately with the mods that interest me at a given moment.

So how it will looks like?
  1. Altrax frame
  2. BTT Octopus Pro V1.1 + TMC2209
  3. CAN on BTT EBB 36 + U2C
  4. Raspberry pi 4 4GB, besouse I have one usused
  5. hotend - Rapido 2 UHF
  6. steppers - Z from LDO, X and Y from stepperonline
  7. filament sensor - BTT SFS V1.0
  8. screen - BTT HDMI7

And mods from begin:
  1. BFI Idlers
  2. XOL
  3. Sherpa Mini or Micro (I have assembled Mini, but probably will change it to Micro with fixed idlers)
  4. Inverted Electronics
  5. WobbleX,
  6. stepper decopuler-= https://github.com/WINTFOX00/TRIDENT-STEPPER-DECOUPLER
  7. Voron CNC Tap by Vitalii

Addons:
  1. camera based on AUKEY - https://www.printables.com/pl/model/404254-2020-alu-extrusion-webcam-mount-for-aukey-1080p-we
  2. lights - https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Daylight
  3. Bento Box - https://www.printables.com/pl/model/601990-bento-box-filter-with-hepa-carbon-4010-or-4020-fan
Colors? The happiest - white and black :D
The work is progressing slowly due to the time and pace of arrival of the ordered parts :)
 

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Slowly but surely moving forward😁
 

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Today's progress. It's starting to look like a printer
 

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Xol almost bud but I printed wrong rear faceplate... Will continue tomorrow 😁
 

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And I'm not sure if I can arrange the cables under the bed like this? Above or below the profile? Can they touch the heating mat?
 
Today only small progress, but Xol is comple. Tomorrow probably I have to make some break from Trident.
 

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Yesterday progres with building was minimal - I started wiring ebb36. But that's not mean I not worked on my Voron :D But this time it was Fusion360 work and some beta tests ;)
 

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I'm currently on vacation so... I don't have much time 🤣 but the construction is progressing. I gave up on the inverted electronic bay. Rock'n'roll is more comfortable. I'm also not satisfied with the hdmi 7 housing. I have to design it differently (the print quality is poor because it was printed quickly for testing with PLA)
 

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I'm currently on vacation so... I don't have much time 🤣 but the construction is progressing. I gave up on the inverted electronic bay. Rock'n'roll is more comfortable. I'm also not satisfied with the hdmi 7 housing. I have to design it differently (the print quality is poor because it was printed quickly for testing with PLA)
Is the power supply a Mean Well LRS-200-24 PSU. Also what’s the heat sink fan that you have on the Pi and what’s the blue pcb that you have on top of the pi with a button battery holder.
 
No, it's Mean Well LRS-350-24. And on RPi it's this one https://www.waveshare.com/pi-fan-3007.htm.
Blue pcb is ups for rpi, based on battery, not installed on pictures. But most probably I'll resign from it. I'll also resign from u2c, as with octopus pro is not more needed.
I have to wait now for new ebb36, because I smashed one:D
 
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No, it's Mean Well LRS-350-24. And on RPi it's this one https://www.waveshare.com/pi-fan-3007.htm.
Blue pcb is ups for rpi, based on battery, not installed on pictures. But most probably I'll resign from it. I'll also resign from u2c, as with octopus pro is not more needed.
I have to wait now for new ebb36, because I smashed one:D

thank you for taking the time to reply.

1. why did you switch to a 350W power supply compared to stock recommendation of 200
2. what is the difference between a BTT EBB 36/42 CAN and EBB SB2209/SB2240 CAN , is it that EBB SB is stealth burner specific and EBB 36/46 is generic nozzle board ?

if you are planning to use CAN on the Octopus Pro board instead of U2C adapter kindly check this video and comments section
I did read that when using CAN directly from controller board he said he got "Timer To Close" error and he suggested using a U2C adapter for stable connection with CAN SB.

read more here
 
Ad 1. Just for possible future updates. How know what I will want to add/change 😉

Ad 2. Btt32 fit great for round steppers on extruder,like ldo-36sth, btt42 on square extruder's steppers, like nema17, and EBB SB2209/SB2240 is for stealth burner. I not want to use stealth burner. I have Xol + sherpa mini, so for thus configuration btt36 fit perfect.

About CAN on octopus pro - I'll check. Like I see on video, he have version with slower uc. I have octopus with h723, much faster than f446.
 
Ad 1. Just for possible future updates. How know what I will want to add/change 😉

Ad 2. Btt32 fit great for round steppers on extruder,like ldo-36sth, btt42 on square extruder's steppers, like nema17, and EBB SB2209/SB2240 is for stealth burner. I not want to use stealth burner. I have Xol + sherpa mini, so for thus configuration btt36 fit perfect.

About CAN on octopus pro - I'll check. Like I see on video, he have version with slower uc. I have octopus with h723, much faster than f446.

thank you for sharing your thoughts , I understand your choice a bit clear now.

I am also evaluating the BTT Octopus Pro 1.1 H723 as the heart of my Trident 300 build was not aware that the faster STM32 chip will help with CAN so this is a new learning for me.

also when you say Xol and Sherpa Mini are you speaking about this

Are you building the sherpa mini/micro because its light weight ?
 
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At begin, I'm not an expert, please remember that :d it's my first printer build :D ;)

I choose XOL besouse stealth burner have not efficient cooling, especially for printing PLA (I print mostly in ABS and ASA, but...) + I prefer looks of XOL - yes it's this from your link.

Sherpa mini - because a) is light b) looks like it have enough performance for me (I added BMG Reverse Integrated Drive Gear Assembly) c) it's beautiful in my opinion ;)
 
At begin, I'm not an expert, please remember that :d it's my first printer build :D ;)

I choose XOL besouse stealth burner have not efficient cooling, especially for printing PLA (I print mostly in ABS and ASA, but...) + I prefer looks of XOL - yes it's this from your link.

Sherpa mini - because a) is light b) looks like it have enough performance for me (I added BMG Reverse Integrated Drive Gear Assembly) c) it's beautiful in my opinion ;)
I also mostly print PLA+ but I really want something that can also print ABS , I come from an Ender 3 S1 Pro
I am also learning and trying to piece together the information for my own first voron a trident 300 build.

do share how your toolhead assembly works when you put everything together.
I really liked some of your decisions for your build they make a lot of sense to me so I am seeking a lot of inspiration from your build.
 
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