sanketss84
Well-known member
No worries mistakes are part of the build process, keep going.
VORON Design
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members!
YACN* Builds an LDO Voron 2.4r2 300
- Thread starter Cena
- Start date
Sorry but I had a chuckle at your misfortune. I find if something is not going together correctly, then I am doing something wrong.
There is a video series that was pretty good with putting the 2.4 together under the name Scott Corn. They are very to the point and easy to follow in case you get stuck. https://www.youtube.com/@scottcorn/videos
There is a video series that was pretty good with putting the 2.4 together under the name Scott Corn. They are very to the point and easy to follow in case you get stuck. https://www.youtube.com/@scottcorn/videos
Cena
Active member
Don’t worry, I’m having to laugh ruefully myself!
Got the Z belts on, futzed around with squaring the gantry (which I think it is, after I finally realized some of the little rubber stops on the linear rails were still in place, apparently causing the racking I was seeing.)
Next up, A/B belts. This took a few days to prepare for since I couldn’t seem to find an actual length specified in the manual, as had been mentioned for the Z belts. i finally asked on Reddit, only to be told to run the whole belt and cut, then cut another the same length. Also, just cut the 5.5m 6mm belt in half, and cut off excess. I didn’t like either of these approaches for both the imprecision and the waste of belt.
Finally a kind soul pointed me to the Voron Design BOM, which specifies 2x1800mm for the 300. Somehow I’d never looked at it, relying instead on the LDO BOM.
So the belts are now cut, and I’m off to install them. Hopefully good news and progress soon.
Got the Z belts on, futzed around with squaring the gantry (which I think it is, after I finally realized some of the little rubber stops on the linear rails were still in place, apparently causing the racking I was seeing.)
Next up, A/B belts. This took a few days to prepare for since I couldn’t seem to find an actual length specified in the manual, as had been mentioned for the Z belts. i finally asked on Reddit, only to be told to run the whole belt and cut, then cut another the same length. Also, just cut the 5.5m 6mm belt in half, and cut off excess. I didn’t like either of these approaches for both the imprecision and the waste of belt.
Finally a kind soul pointed me to the Voron Design BOM, which specifies 2x1800mm for the 300. Somehow I’d never looked at it, relying instead on the LDO BOM.
So the belts are now cut, and I’m off to install them. Hopefully good news and progress soon.
sanketss84
Well-known member
Trident needs 1890 mm x 2 belts so just ordered a 4 meter belt and cut two equal size equal teeth 2 halves from it. I hope you checked equal teeth on both belts. It will help when you tension the belts.Don’t worry, I’m having to laugh ruefully myself!
Got the Z belts on, futzed around with squaring the gantry (which I think it is, after I finally realized some of the little rubber stops on the linear rails were still in place, apparently causing the racking I was seeing.)
Next up, A/B belts. This took a few days to prepare for since I couldn’t seem to find an actual length specified in the manual, as had been mentioned for the Z belts. i finally asked on Reddit, only to be told to run the whole belt and cut, then cut another the same length. Also, just cut the 5.5m 6mm belt in half, and cut off excess. I didn’t like either of these approaches for both the imprecision and the waste of belt.
Finally a kind soul pointed me to the Voron Design BOM, which specifies 2x1800mm for the 300. Somehow I’d never looked at it, relying instead on the LDO BOM.
So the belts are now cut, and I’m off to install them. Hopefully good news and progress soon.
Lay both belts flat on ground and check both have same teeths
The belts assembly on ab are same for V2 and VT
Cena
Active member
Well, it took a couple of attempts, but finally got the A/B belts on. I think my ‘intuition’ about what’s correct build-wise is improving a bit - I was able to catch a couple of mistakes (‘wait, that can’t be right’) before I got too far along. The main issue was running the B belt, where it seemed it was getting tangled up with the A belt near the lefthand XY joint (coming back from the Z.)
I think my only comment about this is that if you use the BOM 1800mm belt length for the 300, it doesn’t leave you a ton of belt at the end, but its enough to pull on- maybe 3 inches/75mm-ish. Just a heads up for any future theoretical readers.
Of course, this wouldn’t be a CN log if I didn’t make at least one retrospective blunder: after buying Rama idlers with the kit, then deciding to go with Beefys a week or two ago, I (unintentionally) ended up installing the stock idlers. realized this when I started installing the belts, and incidentally they’re a pain to run the belts through.
Belts and short end!
Next up:
It seems this is the time to install the titanium backers , but I’m waiting on the titanium screws, which didn’t get sent at the same time as the backers. The Nitehawk should also arrive then, either tomorrow or Sunday, depending on whether one believes Fabreeko or USPS.
So I’mma start building the Stealthburner!
[Note to self: Please don’t screw up and forget you’ve got a Galileo 2 (and Nitehawk)].
I think my only comment about this is that if you use the BOM 1800mm belt length for the 300, it doesn’t leave you a ton of belt at the end, but its enough to pull on- maybe 3 inches/75mm-ish. Just a heads up for any future theoretical readers.
Of course, this wouldn’t be a CN log if I didn’t make at least one retrospective blunder: after buying Rama idlers with the kit, then deciding to go with Beefys a week or two ago, I (unintentionally) ended up installing the stock idlers. realized this when I started installing the belts, and incidentally they’re a pain to run the belts through.
Belts and short end!
Next up:
It seems this is the time to install the titanium backers , but I’m waiting on the titanium screws, which didn’t get sent at the same time as the backers. The Nitehawk should also arrive then, either tomorrow or Sunday, depending on whether one believes Fabreeko or USPS.
So I’mma start building the Stealthburner!
[Note to self: Please don’t screw up and forget you’ve got a Galileo 2 (and Nitehawk)].
Cena
Active member
How dare you! /s
Seriously, not sure where?
Manual:
Carriage:
That said, I just realized I need to print a new carriage to accommodate the Beacon, or at least one of these insert things.
Here is the location of the carriage for Beacon. See the CAD drawing.... I am pretty sure you need the hearserts.
github.com
I love my Beacon!
Annex-Engineering_User_Mods/Printers/Non_Annex_Printers/VORON_Printers/VORON_V2dot4/annex_dev-stealthburner_beacon_x_carriage at main · Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering_User_Mods
mods created by users of ANNEX Engineering printers - Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering_User_Mods
github.com
I love my Beacon!
sanketss84
Well-known member
Here is the location of the carriage for Beacon. See the CAD drawing.... I am pretty sure you need the hearserts.
Annex-Engineering_User_Mods/Printers/Non_Annex_Printers/VORON_Printers/VORON_V2dot4/annex_dev-stealthburner_beacon_x_carriage at main · Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering_User_Mods
mods created by users of ANNEX Engineering printers - Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering_User_Mods
I love my Beacon!
exploring cartographer CAN version with cnc metal bracket carriage mount instead of beacon which is a bit pricier. the best part is cartographer can be easily daisy chained to btt EBB36 on CAN.
Cena
Active member
I did see that, but I also imported the step file into orca and it looks like, rather than the entire carriage, an insert, lets call it, that attaches to the existing/default carriage. Can you confirm whether that’s the case, or if I should just reprint the carriage?
Cena
Active member
So, part of what I’m trying to do is avoid CAN, which is why I’m going with the Nighthawk and Beacon. It sounds like this is a relatively new combo (since Nitehawk just came out) so this is likely to be an unwise choice for a CN like me! Still, I’m gonna give it a whirl.
I get stuck between “you don’t know what you’re doing, so build stock and upgrade later” and “build now so you don’t have to mess with it in the future “, which I do understand is not really part of the Voron-consciousness.
So right now, here’s where I am. I’m at around page 141ish of the manual - belts on. The next thing is the carriage/SB, wiring.
So I’m sort of at a crossroads for how to proceed. Either I can update a couple things now, when it’s possibly less inconvenient to do so, or wait til its built and replace things as necessary.
A). I mistakenly installed the stock front and Z idlers. Option: replace with Beefys before moving on.
B) print carriage for Beacon, replace existing carriage and install Beacon.
B.1 - this will require me to fix up an enclosure for the Creality, since I’m not sure I’d trust the ABS print for this part without one.
Or, C: install stock probe and keep going for now.
Here’s the non-stock things that are potentially more complicated than I need to deal with now:
Nitehawk (came in yesterday )
Galileo 2
Beacon
Decision: skip the above, and build stock and upgrade later.
What do yall think?
sanketss84
Well-known member
So, part of what I’m trying to do is avoid CAN, which is why I’m going with the Nighthawk and Beacon. It sounds like this is a relatively new combo (since Nitehawk just came out) so this is likely to be an unwise choice for a CN like me! Still, I’m gonna give it a whirl.
I get stuck between “you don’t know what you’re doing, so build stock and upgrade later” and “build now so you don’t have to mess with it in the future “, which I do understand is not really part of the Voron-consciousness.
So right now, here’s where I am. I’m at around page 141ish of the manual - belts on. The next thing is the carriage/SB, wiring.
So I’m sort of at a crossroads for how to proceed. Either I can update a couple things now, when it’s possibly less inconvenient to do so, or wait til its built and replace things as necessary.
A). I mistakenly installed the stock front and Z idlers. Option: replace with Beefys before moving on.
B) print carriage for Beacon, replace existing carriage and install Beacon.
B.1 - this will require me to fix up an enclosure for the Creality, since I’m not sure I’d trust the ABS print for this part without one.
Or, C: install stock probe and keep going for now.
Here’s the non-stock things that are potentially more complicated than I need to deal with now:
Nitehawk (came in yesterday )
Galileo 2
Beacon
Decision: skip the above, and build stock and upgrade later.
What do yall think?
Let me share how I think but I would suggest that you proceed with whatever you are comfortable with.
Let's say original coron design and that manual was built in year 01 ( for simplicity of timeline)
The design went public and it iterated and got better day by day, original design for updates and called rev 2 in year 02 , now users started building machine with revised design and further improvement were made.
Now year 02 design is what you are building let's say but the community has further refined the design with mods for almost all parts of thr machine.
So now it's upto you that you choose to use community released mods for certain areas of the build like for eg. CAN or stock huge bundle of wires.
If I strongly feel that a mods is a better design choice then I will adopt the modded part because eventually I will adopt it. Also a criteria here would be only money for eg. I decided to use klicky probe as my first probe of choice for my trident build but later I will for sure upgrade to eddy current based surface scanner.
So to summarise do whatever you feel you are comfortable with be it comfort with financial expenses for a particular area of your build or technical comfort
A solution is a solution in any form and it gets the job done is what matters, stock or mod both are fine.
Note: for expensive parts I stay away from initial version of anything electronics especially I always go with time tested solutions like I choose the octopus pro f446 over h723 or even the octopus Max
Last edited:
Last time I read about Cartographer, there were concerns about the chips used not being rated for the amount of heat they would be exposed to in a heated chamber in close proximity to the bed and nozzle - whereas the Beacon had used a higher rated chip at the expense of some of the communication flexibility. Do you know if that is still the case?
sanketss84
Well-known member
Thanks for bringing this up I am still analysing between beacon, cartographer and IDM scanner. I need to check on cartographer discord if this is still an issue.
Cena
Active member
Okay, quick update here!
I ended up replacing the stock front idlers with the Ramas - it was going to drive me crazy otherwise. Along the way I found various screws that needed tightening, and a misaligned belt, so I consider this time well-spent!
Mounted the Pi and power supply (that is, attached the mounting parts.)
Started building the SB. Of course I got confused along the way, what with LDO’s build notes page numbers not aligning with manual past page 145ish, the manual build is for Afterburner, and just general CN-ishness.
[I actually bought a printed manual at K..(name is escaping me) and it’s been super useful for writing down notes. ]
So I finally get on the right page (of the SB manual), happily get to heat-inserting, solve some small problems (make sure those inserts are flush!) get the contraption aligned and put together, and belatedly realize I’m building the Clockwork 2. Of course, the Galileo 2 box is sitting right there.
It’s fine. I clearly need the practice, in both heat-inserting and direction-following.
It also turns out that the STLs for G2 have changed in the last few days, and come to think of it, I never did print those parts (somehow I thought ‘drop-in replacement’ meant ‘no new parts’) so I need to do that.
I ended up replacing the stock front idlers with the Ramas - it was going to drive me crazy otherwise. Along the way I found various screws that needed tightening, and a misaligned belt, so I consider this time well-spent!
Mounted the Pi and power supply (that is, attached the mounting parts.)
Started building the SB. Of course I got confused along the way, what with LDO’s build notes page numbers not aligning with manual past page 145ish, the manual build is for Afterburner, and just general CN-ishness.
[I actually bought a printed manual at K..(name is escaping me) and it’s been super useful for writing down notes. ]
So I finally get on the right page (of the SB manual), happily get to heat-inserting, solve some small problems (make sure those inserts are flush!) get the contraption aligned and put together, and belatedly realize I’m building the Clockwork 2. Of course, the Galileo 2 box is sitting right there.
It’s fine. I clearly need the practice, in both heat-inserting and direction-following.
It also turns out that the STLs for G2 have changed in the last few days, and come to think of it, I never did print those parts (somehow I thought ‘drop-in replacement’ meant ‘no new parts’) so I need to do that.
Cena
Active member
KB3D - That’s it!
Since last time, I’ve reorganized my work area, put the hot end (Revo) into the housing, put together the lil clear Voron logo piece and inserted it into the SB face plate. (That was possibly one of the most fiddly things so far! Why??)
Broke down and bought 3d printed parts for Beacon x-carriage and Galileo. I just don’t quite trust the Creality (or to be fair to the poor thing, myself) to print these parts correctly.
By the way, @NoGuru or @Dave32 , if y’all have a side hustle in printing parts, let me know so I can hit you up next time I invariably need something! (No offense to @sanketss84 , but you seem to be in India, which is a far ways away, even in these modern times.)
Since last time, I’ve reorganized my work area, put the hot end (Revo) into the housing, put together the lil clear Voron logo piece and inserted it into the SB face plate. (That was possibly one of the most fiddly things so far! Why??)
Broke down and bought 3d printed parts for Beacon x-carriage and Galileo. I just don’t quite trust the Creality (or to be fair to the poor thing, myself) to print these parts correctly.
By the way, @NoGuru or @Dave32 , if y’all have a side hustle in printing parts, let me know so I can hit you up next time I invariably need something! (No offense to @sanketss84 , but you seem to be in India, which is a far ways away, even in these modern times.
)
I normally work with company's to print large parts but I might make an exception just to help you out. I am near Detroit. Just DM me.KB3D - That’s it!
Since last time, I’ve reorganized my work area, put the hot end (Revo) into the housing, put together the lil clear Voron logo piece and inserted it into the SB face plate. (That was possibly one of the most fiddly things so far! Why??)
Broke down and bought 3d printed parts for Beacon x-carriage and Galileo. I just don’t quite trust the Creality (or to be fair to the poor thing, myself) to print these parts correctly.
By the way, @NoGuru or @Dave32 , if y’all have a side hustle in printing parts, let me know so I can hit you up next time I invariably need something! (No offense to @sanketss84 , but you seem to be in India, which is a far ways away, even in these modern times.
I hope you are getting Flexi TAP printed? https://github.com/andrewmcgr/FlexTAP
Last edited:
LOL, couldn't help you there. I'm actually in that part of the user base that the Voron community doesn't acknowledge and refuses to believe exists. I've been 3D printing for almost a decade, have un-enclosed every one of my printers, and have never bought a roll of ABS in my life. (If I get shunned now and my account deactivated, you all know why.
)
LOL, couldn't help you there. I'm actually in that part of the user base that the Voron community doesn't acknowledge and refuses to believe exists. I've been 3D printing for almost a decade, have un-enclosed every one of my printers, and have never bought a roll of ABS in my life. (If I get shunned now and my account deactivated, you all know why.
I think I use ASA 95% of the time.