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Total Newbie 350!

Hmmm, I'm a bit stuck. Got all the mechanical and wiring done. Did a bunch of testing and then fired it up. No smoke, but the touchscreen cable got slightly warm. And the touchscreen didn't work. I'm betting that's because klipperscreen is not installed by default.

And I can't seem to get in touch with the pi on my wifi. I did punch the wifi deets into pi-imager when making the sd card. I do get a bunch of blinky lights on the pi and the octopus. also the stealthburner gives a few blinks at power on.

My DHCP server doesn't note anything called raspberrypi or mainsailos. Also trying to use a USB cable to my Windows 11 pc. No joy.

Suggestions?
 
The WiFi credentials not working after flashing the SD-card with that info, is a known problem. I belief removing the 'eject after writing SD-card' may resolve that issue.

For now, assuming the Pi with image fired up correctly, you should be able to SSH or get to the mainsail webpage without a problem, if you know your IP-adress.

You may try http://mainsailos.local and see if that works? Otherwise you need to find the IP-address of the Pi using tools like 'Advanced IP Scanner' or 'Angry IP Scanner' or login to your local router and check the DHCP Network List.

If you really cannot find the Pi on your network, I would try writing the SD-card another time and rebooting the Pi.

The TFT screen needs to be flashed and configured in the printer.cfg file, these steps were required for the small screen on my V0.2 so assume a larger TFT is no different.
 
Beez said:
Hmmm, I'm a bit stuck. Got all the mechanical and wiring done. Did a bunch of testing and then fired it up. No smoke, but the touchscreen cable got slightly warm. And the touchscreen didn't work. I'm betting that's because klipperscreen is not installed by default.

And I can't seem to get in touch with the pi on my wifi. I did punch the wifi deets into pi-imager when making the sd card. I do get a bunch of blinky lights on the pi and the octopus. also the stealthburner gives a few blinks at power on.

My DHCP server doesn't note anything called raspberrypi or mainsailos. Also trying to use a USB cable to my Windows 11 pc. No joy.

Suggestions?
Click to expand...
You can do many steps on you bench instead of in the printer. Do it one by one. Disconnect or even take out the Pi and MCU. Flash SDcard with MainsailOS, ideally connect to the Ethernet, and SSH inside Pi to verify it's working. Try to load the web page and you should get to screen with error that no MCU is connected.
Switch jumper on MCU to get its power from USB and connect to your computer, to verify it's alive and registers on USB. Once done, switch power selection for MCU to external power and mount it in the printer. Connect 24V input only for now. Switch power delivery on MCU from USB to external power. Compile firmware for MCU on RPi, and load it to MCU (through another SD card for example, or make flash). After that is done and you are sure there is no firmware which would activate heaters on its own, connect everything else to MCU. Once you have basic functionality, install Klipperscreen and connect screen.
 
BTW if you can connect the Pi tothe router through Ethernet, you can check and adjust Wifi settings through Raspiconfig.
 
Thanks very much folks! was mostly offline the last couple days building and wiring a sauna for my GF. First heat was tonight!

I'm digesting your advice and have flashed the pi firmware a bunch of times. Got it working at my GF's house and now mine. I can ping the raspberrypi.local, and ssh into it using putty. Have not found the web page to the pi yet.

tried http://mainsailos.local and https://...
 
Looks like you found it! Now to copy the config files over and get the printer going!
 
Thermistor type enumeration?

Voron docs state: https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#common-thermistors

but when I try:
## Check what thermistor type you have. See https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#common-thermistors for common thermistor types.
## Use "Generic 3950" for NTC 100k 3950 thermistors
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H24G

klipper says unknown temperature sensor.

Tried it several different ways but can't seem to get past it. Maybe i'll try generic and work on something else.

On the plus side, I got the screen working, emacs installed ( never learned vi ) and figured out how to cut and paste the printer.cfg file through putty using vi ( yeah, sometimes that's all you have ). ;-)

TIA!
 
Ok, this is GREAT! Nothing is heating without command, I can set PLA heater settings and the bed and hot end come on as do the chamber LED strips, and temps go right to set points and stabilize. Hit the cooldown button and things are cooling down. chamber lights off. the lower fan on the stealthburner is spinning.

Happy!

Now to figure out motion. Motors aren't energized...
 
Got things homing, probing the bed (omron inductive) have parts for klicky but not installed.
Noticing that X,Y scaling seems to be off. the home positions are set at 350,350 but 0,0 is approx the middle of the build plate. Should be the opposite corner methinks. Looking at printer.cfg there is not an obvious change to set the scaling. Probably more than one way to do it. Should I change the steps per revolution?
THX.
b
 
Yep it was steps per rev. Now able to quad level, and extruding spaghetti! :p

Here's a random question, anyone able to dim the lights in the enclosure? I've tried a few things, and can't get them to dim. May have to try inline resistor as it's only a few watts. I find the color temp very annoying, must be about 3500k!
 
Beez said:
Got things homing, probing the bed (omron inductive) have parts for klicky but not installed.
Noticing that X,Y scaling seems to be off. the home positions are set at 350,350 but 0,0 is approx the middle of the build plate. Should be the opposite corner methinks. Looking at printer.cfg there is not an obvious change to set the scaling. Probably more than one way to do it. Should I change the steps per revolution?
THX.
b
Click to expand...
Do you use 0.9 degree motors instead of 1.8 degree? That may explain, those have 400 steps per rotation, while 1.8s have 200.
 
I'm using RGB WS2812 for my chamber lights, when I have them turned on for printing they are set to 0.5 instead of 1.0 because they are too bright at full blast.
 
If the lights are setup in your config file, and it sounds like they are since they are on, then you MAY have a section in the bottom left, below those errors you were getting. Should say something to the effect of "case light" "light" or something, you can adjust there.

Or, in your printer.cfg file should be the same verbiage, you can hardcode it to what you want.
 
5twenty said:
If the lights are setup in your config file, and it sounds like they are since they are on, then you MAY have a section in the bottom left, below those errors you were getting. Should say something to the effect of "case light" "light" or something, you can adjust there.

Or, in your printer.cfg file should be the same verbiage, you can hardcode it to what you want.
Click to expand...

Bottom left of the mainsail webpage? under misc? Nothing there. And the .config doesn't help. Added is that the lights seem to flicker when the heaters are working. Pretty annoying, but not top priority.

Right now I'm having trouble getting the first layer to stick. PLA. Textured build sheet. I'm thinking I need to tune the minimum Z height again... Suggestions?
Thanks everyone for your support to this point, I'm almost printing the test cube, but it's a bit, um, impressionist? ;)
 
It got better with Z height recalibration. But still came unstuck after about eight or nine layers. I'll clean the bed with 99% ipa and have reset the first layer temp from 55c to 65c.

Any advice for setting up for unattended operation? I'll need a camera, and a filament runout detector I guess...
 
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