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350x350 No Kit/Self Sourced Voron 2.4 / Slow Build

Christian

Well-known member
After being in the third month of the 3D Printiong Hobby and building my first Voron sucessfully (https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/250x250-no-kit-self-sourced-voron-2-4.204/) I learned so much and it was so much fun, I decieded to build myself another V2.4. Since I got the Kobra (220x220) and the 250x250 Voron it is now time to add a bigger printer to the small farm xD.
But this time I will do what I wanted to do the first time, take a lot more time to source and build everything. Just got hooked so much in the first build, that I spent every free minute to get it done.

So far I have made a list of Mods I will implement right away:
  1. Y Endstop Relocation (https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/Q1xuJ7ae98MoMeAumXdAw)
  2. Klicky (https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/6p2BbGiMg3JZPKQsRtMmqQ)
  3. GE5C Joints (https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/eB5T2RNQcYI4o6cilhpXEg)
I printed already some parts and this build will be not in the order of the maunal. I'm going to make the subassemblies as I got the time and parts sourced.

My first assembly therfore was the Klicky probe xD Got enough spare magnets.

signal-2023-01-06-120704.jpeg
 
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I loved Klicky but TAP is much better IMO. If you are going to mod as you build I would recommend doing it and sensorless homing will get rid of X and Y endstops.
For me it simplifies everything with the only drawback being the added weight to the toolhead. I don't mind the weight since printing nice parts still requires you to slow down a little.
 
I'll have a look into sensorless homing. Indeed would it be nice to reduce the endstops. Since I replaced the Z-Endstop with Klicky everything already got easier. If you got a profen link or guide for the BTT Octopus I wouldn't mind if you post it here :D

TAP and a stealthburner will be projects after I finished this Voron with a AfterBurner.
 
Here is the sensorless homing guide right from the Voron Docs. IT's super easy and I can share my config as an example if you try it.
I would not recomend it with klicky though. It's not as accurate and I would say 1 out of 8 tries, I would be off from the klicky dock by 1 step, and miss the dock. That could be my tuning.
 
I'll have a look into sensorless homing. Indeed would it be nice to reduce the endstops. Since I replaced the Z-Endstop with Klicky everything already got easier. If you got a profen link or guide for the BTT Octopus I wouldn't mind if you post it here :D

TAP and a stealthburner will be projects after I finished this Voron with a AfterBurner.
Ed does a good video showing the jumpers needed to setup sensorless on the control board.
 
Thank you.
Good point with the Klicky Dock Position. Have you just removed the endstop switches? Just a thought without ever trying sensorless homeing, maybe it would help to replace the endstop switches with a solid block, where the toolhead can "ram" into which is maybe a more precise position?!
I will definetly experiment on the new machine with that.
 
I have just removed the switches since going CANbus. It's a bit of a balancing act. What I mean by that is you have to do a bit of tuning of speed, and sensitivity. I like the gantry to move fast so I could have had more precision by slowing it down a bit.
Tuning does not take that long. Just follow the procedure and in less then 30 minutes are tuned.
If you wanted to try it just add the couple lines you need to the Printer.cfg and #out the old ones. If you are not happy with the results, changing back is just a few clicks.
 
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