Voron 2.4r2, 350x350 build, self-sourced, Dragon UHF

[JendaDH]

Hi,

so I have replaced the faulty PT1000 sensor and as precaution I replaced also the 4010 hotend fan. Everything started to work nicely, managed to tune the 1st layer squeeze, started to print some samples so I could see how things work.

What I am struggling with now are the neopixels in the SB head. They don't want to come alive, checked voltage to the head and it all seems OK. I have set of another three neopixel buttons, so I'll solder them and hook them up to the board directly just laying on the bench to see if I have faulty LED's or where the problem could be.
Printer config sould be fine, I see macros for LED's but nothing happens.

Next on the list is the TAP mod, looking forward to complete that one.

 

[JendaDH]

Got the neopixel LED's working today. I have soldered string of three on bench, hooked them up to Octopus Pro and boom, all worked instantly.
I took the LED chain out of the SB toolhead and replaced with the one I tested on bench. Now I have working neopixels in the toolhead
I will check the string I took out, maybe I soldered something incorrectly before, but negative and positive were "beeped" for continuity from toolhead PCB and they were OK.
Could be the data wire being incorrect, but I have little doubts it would be this. More like it they are dead.

 

[brendanm720]

I will check the string I took out, maybe I soldered something incorrectly before, but negative and positive were "beeped" for continuity from toolhead PCB and they were OK.
Could be the data wire being incorrect, but I have little doubts it would be this. More like it they are dead.

I'm glad you got them sorted out. It honestly could be either miswired data pins, or damaged Neopixel mini-buttons. I have three here that I ripped the pads off of (they were in a drippy icicle Christmas display as the splats) and it's sometimes really difficult to see which pad is DIN and which is DOUT.

Also, it could be that the first pixel in the chain is just dead -- it's not terribly usual for them to be bad right out of the gate, but it does happen occasionally. When you get around to checking them out, don't assume that they're all bad -- the other two may be fine.

 

[RetroCCTech]

Hi,

This is my first 3D printer ever, well will be once I assemble the thing. Today I finally got PIF parts, so I can continue with the build. Fingers crossed to see actual prints at the end of the journey ;-)
This is soooo goood (yes I had to rotate the GT2 80T pulley, was other way round when I was taking pictures)

I have also decided to build one but I'm still waiting for parts. Money is always the bottleneck . I built a 3d printer over 9 years ago so it's not so scary. Lots of people out there to help. Best way to learn all about them and help with fault finding too. Enjoy!

 

[RetroCCTech]

Hi,

This is my first 3D printer ever, well will be once I assemble the thing. Today I finally got PIF parts, so I can continue with the build. Fingers crossed to see actual prints at the end of the journey ;-)
This is soooo goood (yes I had to rotate the GT2 80T pulley, was other way round when I was taking pictures)

It's certainly no small challenge to build but I admire your courage! I built a printer from scratch over 9 years ago. Needless to say you will learn FAR more while taking on this challenge. The end result will be a powerful and capable printer with an owner who knows and understands its true capabilities. The knowledge you learn will help upgrade and modify the printer to your requirements. You have made the right move in my opinion. OK, not a cheap move, but will have a good final long term result. What with all the on-line support too, I'm sure they will all be helpful with any issues along the way.

 

[JendaDH]

Not much of an activity lately. Started to print bits and pieces for the printer, like the LED strip clips for the interior lightning, skirt parts, back panel plate.
I am preparing to migrate SB toolhead to TAP. Parts are printed, HW is also ready, so probably an activity for weekend along with the LED lightning and Wago mounts for bed.

 

[JendaDH]

So I finaly managed to find some time in between print queue to update the SB with the TAP. I must say it was fun to assemble and really enjoyable. It is amazing how parts are designed and how components fall into place. Where I had to take some time was putting the GT2 belts through the accent center piece. The slot is so close to the GT2 belt width that I had to cut the corners off to ease with the belt routing through there. Once they were "chamfered" it was really easy to sneak them through.

Wiring of the optical sensor (I have the PCB version) was also easy. I crimped JST connector to the other side of the wire and hooked it up to the two piece Hartk PCB board I have in the SB toolhead right to the same place where the Omron inductive probe was.

I have checked the back of the hotend tool mount making sure it does not interfere with those rail carriage screws as the manual calls out. I had to modify the bottom bracket a bit as it went straight across the bottom row of screwes. Quick file work, but I will eventually re-pring the part with space for screw heads in the model itself.

Once everything mounted and triple checked, I powered the printer up and saw the red led on on the PCB, once the SB toolhead is lifted, the light goes off. That was a good sign the PCB assembly is working and mechanically too. After that I checked the same just verifying the trigger gets propagated to end stops in Klipper. All good there.

With this done, I started to modify the printer.cfg file, removing legacy definitions and adding changes as the TAP manual states. Re-run the PID's Z end stop tuning, checked QGL and bed mesh.
All seems to be looking great, just about to start night print job ;-)

I must say I was quite nervous when the Z was homing for the first time and nozzle was approaching the bed. Gladly no disaster happened ;-)

 

[JendaDH]

It is unbeliveable how much dust the acrilic panels attract ;-)

I managed tu put most of the skirt on. I printed the parts from the Voron github repository, but the central rear part is too big. I will print the rear right (view from front) with the key stone slots from the repo as well as it seems to be shorter piece then the honey comb blank and the +18 mm difference on the central piece would be eliminated.

I also need to design some holder for the 7" Waveshare touchscreen I have. I also have BTT 7" thouchscreen, but the touch is way off if the screen is set to proper resolution. I complained to BTT and got some feedback from support to set higher resolution on the screen, something like full HD or so. Need to read that carefully on computer rather then phone.
I would like to use the BTT screen as it has nicer form factor and USB-C for the touch, but either way, HDMI and USB sticking out to the side is problematic. I have seen something like "reversal" plug in "C" or "U" shaped format where it is pretty much two connectors sticking out of PCB in the same direction, one male and one female. Need to do a bit of search on that too.

Best would be to use some flexi cable from the rear of the display as an alternative to HDMI connector, I have seen one display like that, but don't want to buy 3rd one.

Here are pictures of the skirt mounted, controller fans in place and LED lightning. I am glad the LED clips I modified (did left version and right version) worked fine with my extrusions. I made them longer - 25mm and the clip a bit narrower to accommodate the LED's placement on the strip.

I have also printed the bowden guide from Voron Mods side that goes inside, that needs to be assembled and put in place. I am also starting to run short on nuts and bolts, so will need to get some supply. I plan to build Micron+ and take it to the office ;-)))

Remaining tasks are the display mount, properly route cables from LED strip and that's about it. I must say I am supper happy with TAP. First layer looking great all the time even when I switch filaments. Before I had to re-calibrate.

 

[mike35mmnut]

Plate is massive, did not realize how big this would be until parts started to arrive.

I like that heated bed where did you get it?

 

[JendaDH]

Hi Mike,

I got it off Aliexpress. Here is the link to the item I bought -> https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804007759638.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
You should see review from me for this item to ensure you're looking at the same thing.

 

[lotech]

You measured your bed at 8.6mm thick.
When I see it described as MIC6 in the link, I assumed it meant 6mm thick.

 

[JendaDH]

You measured your bed at 8.6mm thick.
When I see it described as MIC6 in the link, I assumed it meant 6mm thick.

Hi,

I believe the MIC6 describes the material - heat soked / reliefed aluminium. This means the bed should warp less then just casted and machined aluminum material, that would still have some internal stress.

 

[lotech]

Thanks, that clears that up for me.
I'm trying to figure this stuff out before I start buying parts.

 

[val]

Hi ! this was your first 3D printer ??
You make it look so easy. I'm waiting for my own formbot kit, a trident 300, but I know I'm going to struggle, even if it's part of the fun. Did you have any experience beforehand, in mechanics ? Electronics ?

 

[JendaDH]

Hi ! this was your first 3D printer ??
You make it look so easy. I'm waiting for my own formbot kit, a trident 300, but I know I'm going to struggle, even if it's part of the fun. Did you have any experience beforehand, in mechanics ? Electronics ?

Hi,

yes it was (and still is). Experience beforehand, well I have some background like I know how to crimp wire, I have been RC model fan / builder for some time, so that probably helped with the mechanical / electrical side of things with the build.
On the other hand, the 2.4 has such a good build manual that if you read and pay attention, you can't go wrong. I am sure this is the same for Trident and other builds.

What is tricky in my opinion since I did not have any 3D printing background is to understand all the terminology and what slicer / configuration has what impact on the actual print.
Like gaps in perimeters, finetuning those. Before going to TAP, I was making sure that my nozzle offset is spot on so I can get first layer nice. But there are so many enhancements that make printing life easier ;-)

What I need to tune is frequency, recently I have decided to migrate to CANBus, partially because of the resonance frequencies, but not sure if I don't have too high expectations in this area ;-)

So even if you don't have a mechanical / electronics background, I am sure your build will be fine. It takes patience, consistency and read instructions making sure you understand them. If you get lost, there is always someone to help on forums or discord.

Good luck with your build