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Voron 2.4r2, 350x350 build, self-sourced, Dragon UHF

JendaDH

Active member
Hi,

This is my first 3D printer ever, well will be once I assemble the thing. Today I finally got PIF parts, so I can continue with the build. Fingers crossed 🤞 to see actual prints at the end of the journey ;-)
This is soooo goood 😁 (yes I had to rotate the GT2 80T pulley, was other way round when I was taking pictures)
 

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Plate is massive, did not realize how big this would be until parts started to arrive.
 

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Had a bit of time in the morning before work ;-) This is like Lego for grownups 😆
And yes, working with heat inserts is indeed oddly satisfying 😉
 

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JendaDH, it looks like you are making great progress, especially being your first 3D printer. For what it is worth, I have had 20 plus 3D printers of various types, and I have been doing this for well over 5 years. I made a number of assembly mistakes. If you like, check my Build Log, as I tried to explain the things I screwed up on.

Enjoy your build as it was one of my favorite parts of the Voron adventure.
 
Thanks @LoadMaster7 , I am enjoying it indeed. Did not have much time today, managed to build the gantry and put it in place - and not breaking anything.
Here is today's progress.

Tomorrow I'll finish installing belts and continue as per manual instructions.
 

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Belts are tight, all looks nice and square. Squaring the gantry was not needed, which I am glad for on one side, but seems a bit unusual on the other hand.
Now the tool head assembly 😉
 

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Finished the toolhead, will need to re-print once this works, I have Dragon hotend, but UHF which is longer then the regular I suppose.

-= edited =-
 

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Tried smoke test today, just to see if everything is hooked up properly. The mess will be sorted once all cables are in.
I have loaded the Klipper firmware and ran update cycle, configured termistors and that's about it for today.
 

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Finished the toolhead, will need to re-print once this works, I have Dragon hotend, but HF which is longer then the regular I suppose.
High Flow Dragon should be the exact same length as the standard flow. It's just the heatbreak that's different between the two, with the high flow having a longer melt zone.
 
Finished cable chains, waiting for the toolhead PCB to arrive so I can measure wires and get them insalled.
I did basic pre-checks, homing positions for all axes, PID for bed, extruder tuning. During bed / gantry alignment I figured I would need to move the bed few milimeters on the X axis to the left so the 0,0 is above the bed and not off the bed.
Once this is done, I'll apply the magnetic sheet, but will need to cut holes for bed screws there. Then put on PEI layer and finetune Z offset.
Still pending from basic checks among others are PID for the hotend, and QGL.

The Y cable chain is hitting the GT2 belt excess which I clamped according to manual. Local Voron owners suggested clip mod that holds the belt upwards. I may shorten the belt too, to make sure it does not conflict with the cable chain, but there is room for the side acrylic as well, so nothing is rubbing during operation.

I may look into shortening the cable chain by a link or two if the radius permits. Without the GT2 belt leftover it fits nicely between max front position and vertical Z extrusion.
 

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Finished cable chains, waiting for the toolhead PCB to arrive so I can measure wires and get them insalled.
I did basic pre-checks, homing positions for all axes, PID for bed, extruder tuning. During bed / gantry alignment I figured I would need to move the bed few milimeters on the X axis to the left so the 0,0 is above the bed and not off the bed.
Once this is done, I'll apply the magnetic sheet, but will need to cut holes for bed screws there. Then put on PEI layer and finetune Z offset.
Still pending from basic checks among others are PID for the hotend, and QGL.

The Y cable chain is hitting the GT2 belt excess which I clamped according to manual. Local Voron owners suggested clip mod that holds the belt upwards. I may shorten the belt too, to make sure it does not conflict with the cable chain, but there is room for the side acrylic as well, so nothing is rubbing during operation.

I may look into shortening the cable chain by a link or two if the radius permits. Without the GT2 belt leftover it fits nicely between max front position and vertical Z extrusion.
The cable chains (at least in my Formbot kit) came longer than needed. I had to remove links to obtain the proper length. Looks like you are making good progress.
 
The cable chains (at least in my Formbot kit) came longer than needed. I had to remove links to obtain the proper length. Looks like you are making good progress.
I am having 26 links on the 10x10 belts. I'll check in the evening what can be done there ;-) Thanks for support. I sourced all stuff individually.
 
Hi, just a little update before going on holidays.

I received SB toolhead PCB so I started to take the temporary "bypass" cabling away and install cable drag chains and route wires through there.
I have Hartk1213 version - two PCB's and could have used a bit more detail on the wiring in documentation. I had to "beep" the wires to see if the HE0 for hotend goes to positive or negative and check the fan connection as well. Mine had jumpers soldered on the fan PCB so it was not clear what is positive or negative. Good that PCB layout images are on Hartk's Github. Just taking extra care not to have any short sice the cabling harness was pre-made in the kit.

From printer operation, I have done the hot end PID, bed PIC, cold extruder calibration, homing, safe Z, tune Z with the paper drag approach, performed QGL, but that I will need to repeat as I still need to "tune" the belts to be in the right spot.

I am glad cables go through cable drag chains, which means I could start tidy things up on the bottom as well. What is planed is reorganising the bed, thermistor and thermal fuse wiring. Local Voron community member was kind enough and printed for me the ABS part that hold the 2 Wago clamp connector. This will go in between the bed extrusions and will make the bed removal easy.

Just before I wanted to verify extruder calibration when actually pushing filament through the hotend, the hotend thermistor gave up on me and is sending havoc values back to the Octopus.
Since I have Octopus Pro with the dedicated port fot PT100/PT1000 thermistor, I tried crimping it with 4 pin connector (I have two wire sensor, but the JST is 4 pin) and this did not work as well.
I even hooked it up back to T0 using the bypass cable I had initially when it worked and did not help either. This leads me to conclusion the thermistor is dead.

I will order replacement + spare and once back home from vacation, I'll swap it and probably use the onboard connector since it is available on the Octopus. The DIP switch was properly set from beginning, also I updated the printer config accordingly to use the MAX sensor.
Oh and yes, I also need to figure out how to work with the 3 RGBW lights in the toolhead ;-)

Once I am back, I will also have printed parts for TAP in my mail, so I'll do that upgrade as well. And finally apply for serial number 🤞.

One last thing that needs attention is the Z belt leftover. I clipped it and secured it as per manual, but the cable is still hitting it (as post above). I have removed one link but it still hits the belt leftover. If I remove one more, the chain starts to be a bit under stress in the turn and I don't wan't that.

As suggested by local Voron community, I'll reprint the Z belt clamp with modified design. This will allow me to install panels without worrying they will scrub each other.

See you in a week 😉
 

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